My 1968 Mustang Hardtop Build Thread

[Chaduro]

I will be using this thread as a way to show what I am doing and any questions I may have on my 1968 Ford Mustang coupe.

Here it is when my uncle bought it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6119329542/

Here it is when I bought it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6098035497/


Hopefully I can save this pony and bring it back to life!

 

[Chaduro]

I am going to restore the glove box and get rid of the crappy runny paint that the previous owner tried to put on.

Here are some of the only pictures I have of it beforehand:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6098586554/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6098585720/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6098585218/

Tonight I stripped it of paint, here are the results:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6119360510/

I'm not sure as to why at the bare metal I can see stains of liquid runs. Anyhow, what would be your suggestions as to effective ways to paint this thing? If I rattle canned it properly, would that be okay? What steps should I take into consideration to getting the best rattle can results?

Thanks!

 

[Frankenstang]

I'm not sure as to why at the bare metal I can see stains of liquid runs.

If you're using a chemical stripper than the stains or runs are likely due to residual marks left by staining, damage or previous painting methods. Sanding it all down to bare metal is the only way to remove all stains differences in color (even then it is not an absolute guarantee if there is corrosion present). Also sanding will remove texturing in the metal if not careful (I.E. you can sand the 'crinkle' finish right off the metal if you're not careful).

You mainly want to be sure there are no diffences you can 'feel' on the surface, those will show back up.

My best luck with rattle can paint has been sanding to bare metal when possible (using lighter grit sand paper and more elbow grease versus the other way around). Then use phosphoric acid to prep the metal. This etches the metal and helps the paint bond. Then use a quality finish 'laquer' sold by one of the mustang houses. I didn't use primer, in part because I could find no significant evidence of any on iterior metal, but mainly because 'bonding' is the biggest issue with rattle can jobs IMO. And adding primer, adds another layer of paint that must be bonded to the metal by etching, and then finish paint must be bonded to it (usually by sanding after primer is dry), these additional areas of bonding introduce the possiblitiy of future areas for boding to break down = chipping & peeling. My $.02....Prep is no.1 in any paint job, and cheap paint looks cheap when it's done.

If you want something more professional you'll need to go HVLP and read up on that.

 

[Chaduro]

Hi, I am wondering what this part is, I found it brand new in my car in a package that said "OEM" all over it. I took pictures of it from two different angles:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6122468947/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60731417@N07/6123011030/

What does it do and go to?

 

[bubba22349]

dist. point set for a six

 

[Explorer]

Chad, I refered you here for your engine questions as it's the best there is. Have to refer you back to the Mustang forums for body and paint. There are people on here that can answer your questions, but VMF/AllFordMustang are a lot busier sites for these type of questions.

 

[Frankenstang]

opsie:

 

[MPGmustang]

Chaduro,

painting... can be fun

for stripping, look into 'airplane paint stripper', WATCH OUT this stuff works, on EVERYTHING!!! so don't put it where u don't want it and stay away from my car with it... 1 gallon did my dads 1955 packard, which has more surface area than our mustangs... should be less than $50
stripping, I found it best to use a paint brush (6inch+), to brush the stripper around, and a thinner (1inch) paint prush to get all the cracks and creases
wash with normal hose water...
WARNING, this stuff CAN eat ur glass rubber, best to put some clear masking tape over it and replace the rubber when done painting


Painting,
I have read alot about this, and I think the best way is for you to do your own research on it too...
google 'rool on paint job' or search this forum for '$50 paint job'
A summary, basicly you take %50 rustnolem and %50 mineral spirits (type of water) and you roll on the paint, let dry for 1 hr, then add a 2nd layer and let dry for 3 hrs, then wet sand the paint with mineral spirits, continue proccess until 12+ layers and sanding with 3-4 types of grit becoming little finer each time... after the last coat, sand then buff, then pollish

make sure you do your research, read about it, and enjoy...

IIWIYS, I wouldn't worry at all about what it looks like right now, get it running and driving first, all the dings you do on the body won't matter if it looks ugly, if it's painted then you have that much more to take care of. If I was to 'restore' my car again, I would paint it last... not first

 

[64 200 ranchero]

careful with aircraft stripper, the first time i used it, it ate through my gloves and started burning my hands, get pleanty of ventelation too, this stuff is no joke, it can hurt you

 

[rocklord]

When using aircraft stripper, wear nitrile gloves. I've been able to purchase these at Harbor Freight for around $10/box.

Here's a link for the ones I'm talking about:

http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10 ... 37052.html

I'm sure they are available from other stores.