my car stalls when i put it in drive.. help anyone?

[teggy87]

ok it's a ford 200 cid mounted to a c4 transmission 3 speed automatic. it idles fine other than the fact the exhaust sounds like crap.. but as soon as i drop it in drive or reverse it dies unless i give it constant gas.. once it gets moving it's fine, seems to have a lack of power, but it drives.. this i believe is a previous issue that has gotten worse. it used to shake really bad when i would be stopped with the car in drive.. but the problem has gotten worse. i have looked over i beleive all of the vaccume hoses and i swapped out the vaccume advance once, but it diddnt fix anything. i swapped out the transmission module, diddnt fix anything, i took off the pcv valve and it diddnt fix the issue, although i think the pcv valve is fine.

any idea whats wrong? i cant figure it out, i have played with the timing, and adjusted the carb, maybe i need to drop the idle? i have no idea anymore

 

[teggy87]

this isnt my only issue, i am also wanting to replace the exhaust manifold gasket and dohnut gasket, but im worried about dreaking bolts.. any sugestions? pb blaster doesnt work, and i have heated them up (not with a torch)

 

[LaGrasta]

Sounds like you attacked a lot of what I'd suggest. My bet is still on a vacume issue.

 

[RagHead]

Sound like it could be a timing and tune up issue. Have you checked you points and condenser, rotor and dizzy cap?

As for the manifold bolts, soap with transmission (type F) and rap with a big hammer.

 

[teggy87]

ok 2 things, im not 100% the vaccume lies are hooked the way they should be. i diddnt replace them. the previous owner did. is there a guide to this anywhere?

also i know the guy i got this from replaced the dizzy cap and rotor button, but im confused as to what is in there, i thought is was supposed to be something different, there looks like there is a small coil underneath the cap that hooks to the contact point.

where the vaccume advance hooks up, the 2nd screw that holds the vaccume advance on is missing and the actual place where the screw goes in is broken off. i have pointed at this and wondered, but the vaccume advance doesnt move. so maybe not?

i tryed playing with the carb to fix this issue this morning, but it seems anychanges i make to the carb only make the problem worse..

i also tryed adjusting the timing, but i cant get the car to run in drive at all unless my foot is on the gas, so yea.. i cant really do it

 

[Harte3]

Until you get the vacuum problem sorted out especially the vac advance, timing, etc., all the carb adjustment in the world will not make it run properly.

 

[teggy87]

i feel like the transmission is grabbing the engine and bogging it down, what would cause this?

 

[Grandmas6]

This is just a tick off subject, but the shop manual is the thing to have. It'll show you how do everything and I believe has drawings showing vacuum lines -- not to mention torque settings, tune-up data, installation procedures, etc, etc...

 

[66 Fastback]

but the vaccume advance doesnt move. so maybe not?

Am I correct in assuming that this comment is in reference to the vacuum advance motor/cannister on the distributor?

Does the vacuum advance mechanism function?
Does the vacuum advance motor hold a vacuum?

We need some more information as to what year the vehicle is, what type of carburetor and distributor you have.

Doug

 

[teggy87]

it's a 68 ford fairlane, i believe it to have the stock 200 cid in it. and im fairly sure it's got the autolite 1100 carb.. at least it looks the same, is there any way to tell for sure?

 

[teggy87]

but the vaccume advance doesnt move. so maybe not?

Am I correct in assuming that this comment is in reference to the vacuum advance motor/cannister on the distributor?

Does the vacuum advance mechanism function?
Does the vacuum advance motor hold a vacuum?

We need some more information as to what year the vehicle is, what type of carburetor and distributor you have.

Doug

and yes the vaccume advance canister, the 2 screws where it screws into the distributor one is broken off..

i beleive it is functioning yes. it changes the idles if i move it.
and yes i beleive it holds a vaccume

 

[66 Fastback]

Your other posts asked about idle speed. Did you get the idle speed set correctly with the engine in drive?

You may need to increase your idle speed. If you advance the ignition timing at idle, it will allow smooth out the idle and allow you to set the idle speed with the throttle plate openned up less.

You could have a timing issue or a slipped harmonic balancer that may be causing you to set the timing out of spec.
Is the distributor a load-a-matic or does it also have centrifugal advance?
Improper ignition timing will give poor performance as mirror the symptons that you describe.

i beleive it is functioning yes. it changes the idles if i move it./quote]

When you move what exactly? The distributor itself, the linkage by sucking on the vacuum line? More info please.
Doug

 

[Falcon Ranch]

Mine did the same thing...it turned out to be a too high idle speed...the stock torque converter is set at 800-850rpm...if you are in the neighborhood, it will kill the engine when put in gear...my ideal idle speed in neutral was around 900rpm...now when I put it in gear it idles right at 800rpm which allows a little slippage...good luck!

Dave

 

[Mercury Mike]

Reset your timing as soon as possible, and then make sure that your points are set properly. If you feel you're up to it, go ahead and install a pertronix module or a Duraspark II upgrade. I'll bet you 100$ that with an electronic ignition installed, your engine will run smooth as silk. =)

 

[ludwig]

If someone hasn't mentioned it already, I will now. The idle should be set in DRIVE at about 750 rpm. Some guys like it higher, some lower depending on the torque they are getting.

If you think you have a problem with the timing, try using a vacuum gauge instead of a scope. Connect it to the manifold vacuum source at the side of the log. Then you can fool with the A/F mix at idle and spark timing. It should be pulling 18" or more (i.e. AT LEAST 18*) of vacuum at idle.

With the motor at idle, probably in neutral, run the A/F screw in until it starts to stumble. Then back it out until you get to the highest vacuum reading on the dial. Then bump it just a skosh more. That will do for now.

Now turn the distributor one way or the other until you get the highest vac reading. Then turn it just a touch more EXCEPT if you are advancing (i.e. counterclockwise). At this point you should have max vacuum from both the fuel mix and the timing. You should be able to drop it into drive and reset the two adjustments for max vacuum.

If you are using a light, scope the settings. I'll bet it is different from where you had it set originally, This will tell you that the outer ring has slipped on the harmonic balancer. To fix this, you need to find TDC, remark the ring (with a white pen) and re-set the timing with the scope.

 

[teggy87]

just a little update..

since posting this i replaced the torque converter.. stopped the horrible shaking, but it is still shutting off every time i come to a stop. so i have replaced the distributor and vaccume advance. i killed the battery trying to get it to crank.. it's on the charge now.. i need to go buy a jump box, but owell.. i need to know how to find TDC, i am pretty sure i got the distributor in there straight.. and lined up, it looked like it was in the same spot when i dropped it back in, but i would like to be able to check for sure.. when i feel compression coming out of the #1 cyllinder i see that the rotor button looks close to the #1 contact point. but how do i find the 0 mark? im not sure exactly what im looking for or where to look for it.. is it on the crank pully? pics would be great thanks

 

['68falconohio]

Teggy,
Here's a pic of the timing mark on the harmonic balancer pulley. There's an indentation on each side of the pulley and there's a raised portion on the timing cover with TDC marked. HOWEVER, I've read where the balancer has slipped on a couple people so their mark is not right.
EDIT: The white stuff in the indentations on the pulley is soapstone, I wanted to make it a little easier for you to see the marks.

To make sure it's right,
1) Remove #1 spark plug.
2) Turn engine over by hand in correct direction until the piston is at it's highest point on compression stroke.
Make sure it's coming up on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. I'd pull the valve cover and make sure both valves are closed for #1 when the piston's coming up, this means it's compressing. There are other ways to make sure it's on compression, but this is the way I did it. I wanted to get a look under the valve cover too when I last did this because I didn't know how much nastiness was hiding under it.

Once you have the piston at it's highest point, check to see if your mark lines up. If it doesn't, your balancer slipped and you need to make a new mark on the pulley.

As far as the other ways of making sure the pistons on the compression stroke, I've never done them so I didn't want to walk you through something I hadn't done. Someone else will be able to give you pointers on that.
Good Luck,
Stephen

 

[teggy87]

thanks man.. this is exactly what i was looking for, i just diddnt know if it really wasnt there or if i was just not seeing it.. lol

 

[teggy87]

i have replaced the dizzy, got it running, but it is still shutting off when i drop it in drive..

new toque converter, rebuilt the carb, new dizzy, rotor button all the vaccume lines are solid.. the only thing maybe is where the lines run into the thermostat housing.. it doesnt look great.. i'll post a pic..

i know im getting spark to all the plugs i just dont know what happened.. or how to fix it..

im getting rather frustrated

 

[Falcon Ranch]

Sound to me that your timing is retarded too much...did you use a vacuum gauge yet to time the engine?

Dave