My first time adjusting valves PLEASE HELP

[Anonymous]

I drive a 65 comet with a 200 everywhere everyday. It comes to my atention I need a valve adjustment but the chiltons says to do it with the motor running. This is not posible because the adjusters just move to fast. so I tried it acording to http://cquesttechnologies.com/fspp/ValveAdjust.asp
but it just seams worse. am I doing it wrong? Am I mixed up on the intake to exaust? Is there an easier way? Whats the TDC position and how can I best find it? These are noobie questions I know but I couldn't find understandable answers anywhere on the forum. PLEASE HELP

 

[Anonymous]

Didn't the 200s have hydraulic lifters? Since nobody else seems to want to help a newbie, here goes. To adjust solid lifters, first run the engine until it is operating temp. Stop engine. Remove valve cover. Determine which valves are intake and exhaust, and the clearance, which will probably be different for the intakes and exh. Whichever push rods that you can rotate with your fingers can be adjusted. Insert a feeler gauge of the correct thickness between the top of the valve stem and rocker arm, adjust the rocker down until it snugs against the feeler gauge, while still being able to move the gauge around. Bump the engine over a little at a time until all valves are done this way. That's about all there is to it. It is important to do this on a warm engine, as the heat will make the valve stems and push rods longer. Done on a cold engine might cause the valves not to close completely.

 

[Anonymous]

If you can find the lash settings for cold then it is possible to set the motor cold. But you should then check it after it warms up to make sure the hot settings are correct.

 

[Anonymous]

I have never heard of setting the lash cold. Not a good idea.

 

[CobraSix]

This is the set of instructions I always use for setting valves. I haven't read FSPP's (but I know Mike provides great information).

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Curre ... 08-412.asp

Read down, its on the last page I think.

Slade

 

[wsa111]

How to adjust your valves properly - Hydraulic lifters only.

Disconnect the coil wire first for safety, making sure the motor won't accidentally start. Some guys prefer to remove all the plugs too, so that the engine is easier to rotate during the procedure. Make sure to mark your plug wires before disconecting, so you don't mix up the firing order when reinstalling them.

Next rotate the engine until the number one (#1) cylinder is on TDC just after the compression stroke (you can feel the compressed air by putting your finger over the spark plug hole).

Now you can adjust the following valves:

#1 intake - #1 exhaust - #2 intake - #3 exhaust - #4 intake - #5 exhaust

Next, rotate the engine until the number six (#6) cylinder is on TDC just after its compression stroke (one full revolution of the crank shaft). Now adjust the remainder of the valves:

#2 exhaust - #3 intake - #4 exhaust - #5 intake - #6 intake - #6 exhaust

Adjust the valves by backing off the adjuster so that the pushrod can be easily rotated between your thumb and forefinger. Then slowly tighten the adjuster until you can no longer rotate the pushrod. Tighten the adjuster an additional ¼ turn, for the proper preload on the hydraulic lifter.

Note: The valve adjustments should be done on an engine that has been warmed up. Make sure to let it cool off sufficiently so that you don't burn your fingers while rotating the pushrods. It is also a good idea to place a drop cloth or oil pan under the car/engine to prevent oil drips on the floor.
This link is from FSPP.
This you should give a guidence for the proper settings. William

 

[CobraSix]

That's different then other places I've found saying to do all the exhausts first. I think the Shop manual says the same thing, but I'll check this afternoon when I get home.

Slade

 

[AzCoupe]

Makes no difference which order they are adjusted, so long as the valve is closed. To do the exhaust first, then the intakes, you would need to spin the crank twice. Whereas only once with the above instructions.

I think he is having problems figuring out how to find TDC on the compression stroke, and suspect he was 160 out, the first time.

After removing all the plugs (or the #1 minimum) you need to find TDC for the number one cylinder. Look at the timing mark on the balancer, you want to set it so that it is on ZERO (on the compression stroke - not the exhaust stroke). To make sure you are on the compression stroke, put your thumb or finger tighty over the plug hole, then turn the crank to zero.

If your on the compression stroke, your finger will be pushed away from the hole as the crank is turned to zero.

If your finger is not pushed away, turn the crank 180 degress (all the way around - one full revolution) and back to the zero again. This time you should feel the air push on your finger.

Air will only be forced out of the plug hole when it is on the compression stroke.

Might also be easier to have some help when doing this. One person to turn the crank, and one with their finger over the #1 plug hole.

Once this is done, and you are on zero (on the compression stroke), follow the instructions above.

Hope that made sense.