Doug,to get more into Tuning the suspension have you checked the pinion angle?IIRC on a leafspring car it should be about -2 degrees.As the car launches and the rearend rotates upward the driveshaft and pinion move bringing them out of alignment.If you set the pinion at or near -2 degrees as you launch and it rotates they will actually move into a straight alignment.
A
Anonymous
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turbo_fairlane_200":3ameq6vo said:
Actually, Between buying my new car trailer this spring ($1800) spending over a grand on my truck this spring and I've invested over $2500 in the Mustang in the past 2 months, the wallet is getting kinda light right now!
Thats why I'm down to looking for cheap/quick/easy fixes for right now......
Rich,
Nope havent checked the pinion angle on it. Its set up whatever way it would be stock.
Ron,
Nope, I switched to a 8" rear with 3:80 gears last summer.
A
Anonymous
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Bort62":1v7vscfa said:
Ian,
Yep....Cooper cobras are great wearing street tires but for the strip they dont hook up very well....especially when the left side is only hooking up 50% of the time....
Mike had a convertor made up for me all special like
Its a stock 66 case with Ranger guts that stalls to 3500 rpm's.I made plenty of notes at the track
60' 2.34 1/8 mile 9.85 @ 72.37 1/4 mile 15.31 @ 89.13 Launched @ 3000
60' 2.22 1/8 mile 9.79 @ 72.16 1/4 mile 15.28 @ 88.93 Launched @ 2500
60' 2.53 1/8 mile 10.11 @ 71.98 1/4 mile 15.6 @ 88.60 Launched @ 2000
60' 2.22 1/8 mile 9.78 @ 71.88 1/4 mile 15.33 @ 87.43 Launched @ 2500
60' 2.26 1/8 mile 9.83 @ 72.10 1/4 mile 15.32 @ 88.77 Launched @2500
60' 2.40 1/8 mile 9.92 @ 72.71 1/4 mile 15.38 @ 89.93 Launched @ 3500
The 1st 2 passes I dug in on the green light and the 3rd pass I rolled out about 5 feet then stood on it. The other passes were stalling between 3000-3500 then digging it on the green light
Maybe stall it up to the 1800-2000 rpm's just to keep it cleaned out, let it roll out a foot or so on the green light then stand on it?
Plenty of time to experiement test & tune nights...usually I can make 12-15 passes if I want to.
Thanks,
Doug
Many moons ago,a friend of mine had a 348 Chebby.He made some dumps out of galvanized pipe fittings,with screw off caps.Worked pretty darn good.Leo
I woudl seriously think about a mini spool then. cheap and will get both wheels hooking up.....but will kinda kill the "cruise circuit" away from the track. your trap speed says you have the power but those 60's times really suck.
I say try for a mini spool first (not the BEST solution but it gets the job done) and then maybe start looking around for a cheap set of slicks to use. you are still 4 lug? could always post a wanted sign on the car while at the track. maybe someone could loan you some slicks for a night....that way you can really break stuff.
I say try for a mini spool first (not the BEST solution but it gets the job done) and then maybe start looking around for a cheap set of slicks to use. you are still 4 lug? could always post a wanted sign on the car while at the track. maybe someone could loan you some slicks for a night....that way you can really break stuff.
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
1. Mini-spool or detroit locker ( mini-spools are only about $30, lockers about $450 ).
2. Drag radials
3. Remove the air cleaner entirely when racing.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck Doug!!
2. Drag radials
3. Remove the air cleaner entirely when racing.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck Doug!!
Hi Mustang Geezer,have you thought about a fiberglass front bumper for the track only?Or,is that a no no?Leo
A
Anonymous
Guest
I still like to drive it on the street so a spolol is not going to work for me right now.
One of the guys at work has some drag radials I can borrow but they are either 255 or 275 15's and they are to tall for the car.
I did price a pair of BFG radial TA's (225 60 15 for $83 a piece so I am going to get a pair of those but I have to stop spending money now....Except for the 4 Bbl intakes and 4 Bbl carb later this summer
One of the guys at work came up with a idea on how to short belt it to bypass the alternator at the track so I'm doing that tomorrow.
I want to get the shelby apron for it and delete the front bumper all together but that has to wait untill this winter when I re paint the car.
If sealing the scoop to the shelby hood works, then I'm getting a new shelby glass hood this winter...if it doesnt work then I'm getting a 4" cowl induction hood for it.
I got the alignment done yesterday and the toe in was off quite a bit so I'm glad I got it aligned!
On another note, I could gut the interior like the ricers do at the track but I laugh at them there, so.....
Later,
Doug
One of the guys at work has some drag radials I can borrow but they are either 255 or 275 15's and they are to tall for the car.
I did price a pair of BFG radial TA's (225 60 15 for $83 a piece so I am going to get a pair of those but I have to stop spending money now....Except for the 4 Bbl intakes and 4 Bbl carb later this summer
One of the guys at work came up with a idea on how to short belt it to bypass the alternator at the track so I'm doing that tomorrow.
I want to get the shelby apron for it and delete the front bumper all together but that has to wait untill this winter when I re paint the car.
If sealing the scoop to the shelby hood works, then I'm getting a new shelby glass hood this winter...if it doesnt work then I'm getting a 4" cowl induction hood for it.
I got the alignment done yesterday and the toe in was off quite a bit so I'm glad I got it aligned!
On another note, I could gut the interior like the ricers do at the track but I laugh at them there, so.....
Later,
Doug
the radial TA's have some HARD ass compound on them. great for a cruiser and thats it!
I say find a good set of wheels used (some decent 15" ford weels can't be that hard to find) for mounting up a pair of slicks. those radial TA's woul dprob run you $150-180 after install and taxes. better off looking for a pair of used lightweight rims (compared to steel) and then when you get money for some slicks you will have some good wheels to mount them up on and be ready to go.
what about air shocks? or more specificly one. install one on the right side and preload that tire? (run hte matching shock on the otherside too of course just with no airline)
have you looked on ebay for some used drag radials? maybe troll some import boards (should be a shorter tire and not as wide)
can you get your hands on a spare third member? if you can you could stuff a 4.10 gear and mini spool in it.....then again that money thing....
my vote if money is tight is get some nice drag wheels for mounting slicks on next season or a set of used DR's
I say find a good set of wheels used (some decent 15" ford weels can't be that hard to find) for mounting up a pair of slicks. those radial TA's woul dprob run you $150-180 after install and taxes. better off looking for a pair of used lightweight rims (compared to steel) and then when you get money for some slicks you will have some good wheels to mount them up on and be ready to go.
what about air shocks? or more specificly one. install one on the right side and preload that tire? (run hte matching shock on the otherside too of course just with no airline)
have you looked on ebay for some used drag radials? maybe troll some import boards (should be a shorter tire and not as wide)
can you get your hands on a spare third member? if you can you could stuff a 4.10 gear and mini spool in it.....then again that money thing....
my vote if money is tight is get some nice drag wheels for mounting slicks on next season or a set of used DR's
A
Anonymous
Guest
82F100":1vsbcjx1 said:
Rich,
28 lbs, anything less doesnt seem to help any.
Last night sucked!! Car slowed down instead of speeding up! :x :x
Ran a whole bunch of 15.5x's @ 87 mph.
If you think my other 60' times are bad look at this one!
Never hooked posi's at all and I blew away the right rear out past the 60' line....said piss on it and just kept it hammered....
2.8999 60'
10.665 1/8 mile @ 70.62 mph
16.2629 1/4 mile @ 87.02 mph
2 problems IMO....
I switched from a 5.0 power valve to a 6.5 power valve a couple of weeks ago. I now believe that the power valve is opening and closing at idle because of my low vacuum. This coincides with the info my Holley book is giving me. So I switched back this morning to the 5.0 power valve.
It was loading up, and the plugs are lean looking but dripping wet with fuel. Carb has power valve protection and it did NOT BACK FIRE at the track.
When I was switching power valves I must have bumped my float becuase when I checked the float level I had to raise it almost 1.5 turns for it to start dripping out the hole in the side of the bowl.
Swithched everything back the way it was last time I went to the track. Going back next friday night and try it again. I could tell it was laying down the whole way...just didnt feel right.
Best pass was a 15.51 @ 86.51 60 ft 2.27 1/8 mile 9.91 @ 71.22 mph.
I did reset my timing from 40 degree total to 36 degrees total. Didnt seem to make a differance et wise but it does seem to idle better now.
Air temp was in the 80's to start and cooled of into the lower 60's and it didnt go any faster at all like it did last time.
Also,
It didnt matter wether the carb was ealed to the hood with the K&N filter or not. Pulled the filter, ran it sealed no differance. Ran with just the K&N filter in the regular aircleaner. No differance. Ran just the carb baseplate without it being sealed to the hood. No differance no matter what air cleaner setup I ran.
This is what leads me to believe it was a fuel problem.
Later,
Doug
A
Anonymous
Guest
82F100":1ou0vdv5 said:
Rich,
Yep, I started @ 35 psi and worked my way down to 28. Thats where it hooks up the best.
I bolted 20 lbs of ballast over the rt rear tonite so we'll see if that helps the 60 ft times any....
Thanks,
Doug
Doug, i hate to see you add weight that you have previously removed.
Add some spring spacers to the lf coil spring & or put an air bag on the rr leaf spring to jack some weight to the rr wheel.
Its paramount that you need to bite the bullet & purchase slicks so you can hookup.
I also notice your trap speed is down a little.
Can you find someone in your area that has an innovate air fuel tester, so you can get the 12.9-13.2 A/F ratio for the best power at full throttle?
Best of luck on your next runs, V/R Bill
Add some spring spacers to the lf coil spring & or put an air bag on the rr leaf spring to jack some weight to the rr wheel.
Its paramount that you need to bite the bullet & purchase slicks so you can hookup.
I also notice your trap speed is down a little.
Can you find someone in your area that has an innovate air fuel tester, so you can get the 12.9-13.2 A/F ratio for the best power at full throttle?
Best of luck on your next runs, V/R Bill
If that 20 lbs over the right rear is not your battery, then I would recommend doing so.
I used 2 runs of #2 XHHW aluminum wire - easily obtained at building supply stores.
The thought of 2 runs is, electricity will flow better on 2 wires of the same circular mills as 1. Not sure if this applies to DC but it also gives you 2 connection points to spread the load. Both have to go bad before you're down.
Check with Rich on the current rules - may need rear disconnect switch?
I used 2 runs of #2 XHHW aluminum wire - easily obtained at building supply stores.
The thought of 2 runs is, electricity will flow better on 2 wires of the same circular mills as 1. Not sure if this applies to DC but it also gives you 2 connection points to spread the load. Both have to go bad before you're down.
Check with Rich on the current rules - may need rear disconnect switch?