If you put anything other than a ford six, You will be Dead to us.
When you get around to tearing the engine down, please let us see if we can find out the cause.
All Small Six New member! Some questions about 200ci
- Thread starter Guardian1fox2
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This relates to all small sixes
When you get around to tearing the engine down, please let us see if we can find out the cause.Guardian1fox2
Active member
Oh I meant if someone has a 250 or whatever that will fit. I just want a good running engine lol I’ve been googling seeing if I can find a long block or something! I ordered that performance book as well.If you put anything other than a ford six, You will be Dead to us.
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It's a good bit harder to pull both the engine and trans together especially if you doing it by yourself. If you happen to have an Auto Trans then its really easy to just pull out the engine and leave the Trans in the car blocked up plus it will go back together faster again. If you have a Manual Trans then you will find its easier to pull the Trans out first.
just keep in mind, you are looking for a six with the five freeze plugs, that seven main crank is the one you already have, and it will be easier to learn about one type of six rather than having to learn about two different SB6's (small block 6). I don't know how much modification would need to be made to get a BB6 (big block 6) in your car until you can get the SB6 rebuilt, as I haven't looked into it, but it may be an option for you so you can drive the car for the summer.
If you know of any boneyards (junk yard) in your area that still has cars from the 60's you may want to walk through the grounds and see if you can find what you are looking for. The ford Econoline vans, Ford Falcons, base model Fairlaine, Mercury Meteor, and Mercury Comet are just a few vehicles from the 60's which could potentially all have an engine close to what you are looking for. In the 70's the ford Maverick would be added to the list, and later the mercury Zephyr, of the Ford Fairmont, as I am working on.
if you can find a 78-83 Fairmont/Zephyr without the CA emissions, you will have found one that a lot of the issues with the early sixes have been corrected, but have their own issues as a result, however, still has the hesitation in the throttle the SB6 was known for. The SB6 was in a lot of cars, and was Ford's workhorse in the US all the way up until 1984, so there are a lot of possibilities to find a donor. the downside of going through a boneyard to find one, is you may find a similar issue to your current one, and now you have two engines that need rebuilt.
If you know of any boneyards (junk yard) in your area that still has cars from the 60's you may want to walk through the grounds and see if you can find what you are looking for. The ford Econoline vans, Ford Falcons, base model Fairlaine, Mercury Meteor, and Mercury Comet are just a few vehicles from the 60's which could potentially all have an engine close to what you are looking for. In the 70's the ford Maverick would be added to the list, and later the mercury Zephyr, of the Ford Fairmont, as I am working on.
if you can find a 78-83 Fairmont/Zephyr without the CA emissions, you will have found one that a lot of the issues with the early sixes have been corrected, but have their own issues as a result, however, still has the hesitation in the throttle the SB6 was known for. The SB6 was in a lot of cars, and was Ford's workhorse in the US all the way up until 1984, so there are a lot of possibilities to find a donor. the downside of going through a boneyard to find one, is you may find a similar issue to your current one, and now you have two engines that need rebuilt.
The 250 six would be a great swap into your car if you could find a good one and they will fit into the 1967 to 1973 Cars with ease. That is if you find the right front motor mounts or are good at fabricating some new parts, modding what you have or if you have a friend that is good at it.
Guardian1fox2
Active member
I got an auto, it’s got a trans leak I haven’t started chasing down yet cause of well…other problems lol. But that’s probably what I’ll do and that’s what I did when I did my 350 swap in my el Camino in high school! Lol
Guardian1fox2
Active member
There’s a guy here with a 250 in a running car, he’s gonna let me know when he pulls it for his swap. I did some research on it, luckily my hood is a replacement so it has a indention so if someone wanted to cut it for a cowl or whatever so I think I have some extra clearance. I saw someone said to use maverick mounts and either elongate the holes or drill new holes in frame to mount, which will allow the motor to sit lower. What does suck is I would need V8 bellhousing, torque converter, starter, and while the headers are interchangeable, where the start will be will probably be a problem. Also I’ll have to run electric fan as the length with the harmonic balancer becomes a problem. So yeah it comes with it’s own issues. I had reached out to a guy that had two 200cis for sale on here or VMF I can’t remember and after sending me the info and me telling him I was interested he disappeared haha so my search continues!
Another option I saw is MABCO in Tyler texas if I bring them my engine they’ll rebuild it for 1100 or so…but if that’s the case I’d rather see if I can find someone locally. I don’t have a hoist or stand, and that’s about $500 by itself! I searched Craigslist no luck yet. Fingers crossed I can find someone on one of the forums with an engine cause I REALLY rather get one from someone who knows what they have than some rando. I wish junk yards were a thing here but the only junk yard here is wiped out after all the hurricanes. We just got back into our house in April 2021, so it’s been a year we finally got back into our home after Laura and Delta. Me, the wife, and 5m old and 4 year old at the time lived in a camper in the driveway for almost a year while our house got fixed. It was terrible. But anyways, yeah I’ll be keeping my eyes open! I think ima pull another cap today, another that’s down and assessable, and see what it looks like if y’all interested lol
I don't know how much U use the net but theres a buncha ppl still pulling these out to restore/hop up w/bent8. Just like days of ol they pull the 6. Whenever I C it I post our for sale forum link & mention the other sites. There are national used parts sites to list what U seek as well (nother 200/3.3)
I'd keep everything instead and seek individual replacements as needed. Ur right to measure @ dissisembly to go this route. That's how I got the 4.1 in my vehicle. Sent it to local machineshop, got new pistons, etc. Assembled better than new w/a few trick parts added. Many here do so w/'the Handbook', above tech arcive, this site (& some - local boots on the ground w/experience). Y not use all 4 as this = success.
EDIT:
read a lill more
I found a shop w/neighbor who hada lift AND space for a tear down'n rebuild. I swapped free labor for this. Just lucky I guess as I lost my house/garage (Great Recession) in the middle of it all.
I'd keep everything instead and seek individual replacements as needed. Ur right to measure @ dissisembly to go this route. That's how I got the 4.1 in my vehicle. Sent it to local machineshop, got new pistons, etc. Assembled better than new w/a few trick parts added. Many here do so w/'the Handbook', above tech arcive, this site (& some - local boots on the ground w/experience). Y not use all 4 as this = success.
EDIT:
read a lill more
I found a shop w/neighbor who hada lift AND space for a tear down'n rebuild. I swapped free labor for this. Just lucky I guess as I lost my house/garage (Great Recession) in the middle of it all.
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Guardian1fox2
Active member
I think I’m gonna experiment. What do I have to lose at this point? 
I was actually discussing this with my dad (who has never shown any interest in any of this) and told me he would be interested in looking at it with me and showing me how to change the bearings; that he did it on a weekend when he was younger on his truck. Hey I mean why not, and I get to spend some time with my dad two birds one stone! It’s not often he ever did anything with me but that’s for another time lol.
I think what I’m going to do is remove the caps, and check each one, clean everything up and measure each journal. From there I’ll order a set of bearings to match clearances; and reinstall and just see what happens. I mean if it makes it 5-6 months and I can figure out timing and carb hey that’s a win and I learned something right? Lol I’ll also change oil pump and screen while I’m down there, and since the PO removed the wire for the oil pressure gauge (which I’m now thinking was purposeful) I’ll run a new one to see what I got when complete. If it doesn’t work I’m pulling it anyways lol.
I was actually discussing this with my dad (who has never shown any interest in any of this) and told me he would be interested in looking at it with me and showing me how to change the bearings; that he did it on a weekend when he was younger on his truck. Hey I mean why not, and I get to spend some time with my dad two birds one stone! It’s not often he ever did anything with me but that’s for another time lol. I think what I’m going to do is remove the caps, and check each one, clean everything up and measure each journal. From there I’ll order a set of bearings to match clearances; and reinstall and just see what happens. I mean if it makes it 5-6 months and I can figure out timing and carb hey that’s a win and I learned something right? Lol I’ll also change oil pump and screen while I’m down there, and since the PO removed the wire for the oil pressure gauge (which I’m now thinking was purposeful) I’ll run a new one to see what I got when complete. If it doesn’t work I’m pulling it anyways lol.
Guardian1fox2
Active member
So, the way it was explained to me was to measure the journals, and then find what the std measurement of the bearing is and see if it falls within clearances and if not order the correct size to give me that clearance which I think someone said was .02?
try'n keep crank if not too bad. Up grade cam (cheep) if U can to just ur very own application. After a good ck over (need boars redone? timing set?, etc, etc) get a parts'n machining budget worked out. R U the guy that mentioned a son? Involve him in all aspects. I did so w/my daughter (now 25 y/o) and she can wrench, plan a project, etc. We've been able to have some conversations ("Put the socket here...what did that boy say to you then?") we never would have had otherwise.
Use the above tech arcive, the Handbook, a Hanyes or Chiltons. I did not go the ford shop manuals (I'm a low budget operation) but had the site and a knowledgable friend (not familiar w/these i6s tho). Matt co-authored a book too. Have not read my copy but imagine it has details? Any 1 tell us?
www.vintageinlines.com
Bub's link for "echo" is great as it's a vid. A quick once over w/these other sources can 'do it' for any1 whos handy and parient, has a lill room'n tools.
Use the above tech arcive, the Handbook, a Hanyes or Chiltons. I did not go the ford shop manuals (I'm a low budget operation) but had the site and a knowledgable friend (not familiar w/these i6s tho). Matt co-authored a book too. Have not read my copy but imagine it has details? Any 1 tell us?
Ford Inline Six: How to Rebuild and Modify | Vintage Inlines
Covering Ford’s small 6-cylinder engine made famous in Falcons, Comets, Mustangs, and many other models from the 1960s and 1970s, this book has everything you need to know from step-by-step rebuilding instructions to performance parts that will set you apart from the rest of the crowd. If this...
Bub's link for "echo" is great as it's a vid. A quick once over w/these other sources can 'do it' for any1 whos handy and parient, has a lill room'n tools.
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Trust me, do not waste your time trying to fix it in the car...pull it out, put a fresh one in or rebuild what you have...There is no fix for that in the car.
I have been there done that.
I have been there done that.
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that first crank journal is too far gone to try it in the car. that engine is ready for a full rebuild, as even if you don't intend, those pistons will drop out the bottom as soon as the crank is out of the way, and the only way to put them back in is through the top, while the crank is in place, and journal protectors are on the conrod studs/bolts.
since you need to pull it apart, now would be ideal for a few longevity/durability upgrades, if you find another six to put in, great! do it. but build this one to where you won't have to worry about this kind of stuff again. double roller timing chain, modern hardened steel camshaft/lifters. putting in new pushrods that you know aren't bent, roller tipped rocker assembly, ford SB8 Valve springs, since the head is off, 3-way valve job, and new valves, but the biggest durability modification would be to turn the journals down to fit the Toyota 1JZ-GTE H-beam conrods I mentioned earlier. all of these things can be done in a way to maintain the majority of the factory performance profile, however will greatly increase the engine's durability, especially since you have a seven-main crank.
there will always be mild to medium performance changes when altering the things I mentioned, however if you aren't going for high-end performance, all you will be doing is increasing the areas of the engine it already performs its best, and reducing its flaws, like hesitation if you apply the gas too quickly.
edit: just checked this, not sure if you did or not. seems pretty consistent that they have complaints near the end of a racing season
www.bbb.org
since you need to pull it apart, now would be ideal for a few longevity/durability upgrades, if you find another six to put in, great! do it. but build this one to where you won't have to worry about this kind of stuff again. double roller timing chain, modern hardened steel camshaft/lifters. putting in new pushrods that you know aren't bent, roller tipped rocker assembly, ford SB8 Valve springs, since the head is off, 3-way valve job, and new valves, but the biggest durability modification would be to turn the journals down to fit the Toyota 1JZ-GTE H-beam conrods I mentioned earlier. all of these things can be done in a way to maintain the majority of the factory performance profile, however will greatly increase the engine's durability, especially since you have a seven-main crank.
there will always be mild to medium performance changes when altering the things I mentioned, however if you aren't going for high-end performance, all you will be doing is increasing the areas of the engine it already performs its best, and reducing its flaws, like hesitation if you apply the gas too quickly.
edit: just checked this, not sure if you did or not. seems pretty consistent that they have complaints near the end of a racing season
MABBCO Motors | Complaints | Better Business Bureau® Profile
View customer complaints of MABBCO Motors, BBB helps resolve disputes with the services or products a business provides.
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Its broke, you can't hurt it. So go for it.
As it looks like it spun the bearing. You need to push the piston/rod up, turn the crankshaft. Then push the bearing shell out and see the damage to the rod. Clean things up and install a new bearing. Fix the pan and put it on. Start it up and see about the noise. If it's quite, drive it gently, (think hand grenade). If it's noisy you out a weekends work and a few bucks. Then pull the engine and rebuild it or go the wrecking Yard route.
As it looks like it spun the bearing. You need to push the piston/rod up, turn the crankshaft. Then push the bearing shell out and see the damage to the rod. Clean things up and install a new bearing. Fix the pan and put it on. Start it up and see about the noise. If it's quite, drive it gently, (think hand grenade). If it's noisy you out a weekends work and a few bucks. Then pull the engine and rebuild it or go the wrecking Yard route.
Yes for sure it will be a "Hand Grenade" and it's likely to destroy a good 1967 duel bolt pattern 200 block core. X3 you really don't have much of a chance for success putting in a new bearing set on that damaged #1 crankshaft rod throw. Once you check and measure one of the other good crankshaft rod throws your going to see what your up against on how much clearance you have. Bearings come in Standard, .010, .020, 030, and maybe .040 oversize I.E. the crankshaft is machined under size, if you cant get the rod bearing clearance on #1 in the range of .0008 to .002 or at the very max of .003 to 0035 of clearance with the crankshaft rod journal and rod big end cleaned up then it will just hammer itself apart again in short order. Its really not that much more work to put in a fresh crankshaft along with the bearings and another good Rod in the #1 cylinder, a resized rod or the best have all your rods rebuilt first adding ARP Rod bolts to them. Some of our site members may have some good used parts too. Best of luck on your 200 six.
Just to be clear, you would have a better chance surviving a fall from the top of the empire state building with a pencil, unless your initials are JW
than fixing that in the car.
than fixing that in the car.
Guardian1fox2
Active member
Maybe I should put a want to buy post for parts? Like crank and such? I really wish someone knowledgeable on these were close to me to show me how to do everything I’d pay for their time. I called a local guy and all he told me was “it will cost thousands to rebuild it” and I wrote him off lol. I mean if the cost isn’t to bad I wouldn’t mind upgrading it for durability and maybe some more power etc. but I don’t wanna get too expensive, I’m already on a budget but I’ll figure out how to make it happen.
Guardian1fox2
Active member
I put a WTB ad on VMF, ima do one here as well.
Sure you could put a free add in the wanted section of the this Forum for any parts your looking for, here is the link. https://fordsix.com/forums/wanted.85/
And for a budget stock rebuild master kit with very good quality parts for this price level, here's the link (there are others to depending on your goal for your car. https://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek0374#options
And here is a Crankshaft Kit. https://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ck-25026
They would likely give you a credit back on the extra Main and Rod Bearings to or other parts you would not want for your rebuild.
Then all you would need to do is locate a locale machine shop to do all the Block Prep, Boring, Rebuild the Rods, and probably also a fresh valve job. After that we should be able to help you with the assembly its not very hard to do on these small sixes'. Best of luck Edited at 6:25 PM
And for a budget stock rebuild master kit with very good quality parts for this price level, here's the link (there are others to depending on your goal for your car. https://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek0374#options
And here is a Crankshaft Kit. https://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ck-25026
They would likely give you a credit back on the extra Main and Rod Bearings to or other parts you would not want for your rebuild.
Then all you would need to do is locate a locale machine shop to do all the Block Prep, Boring, Rebuild the Rods, and probably also a fresh valve job. After that we should be able to help you with the assembly its not very hard to do on these small sixes'. Best of luck Edited at 6:25 PM
Guardian1fox2
Active member
So if you were in my predicament, what would you change going into it that wouldn’t be a big cost while it’s apart? I like the idea of a different cam, give it a good idle, maybe use a 2V instead of 1V. But I don’t think that’s too crazy.
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