new motor is running hot.... hit 215 today in traffic

Eric Rose

Famous Member
My new motor is running hot. For those of you who don't already know, here are the specs:

200 bored 40 over
9:1 compression
264/274 cam (cam timing is straight up and was degree'd)
Carter YF (running a little rich, need to tinker with it some more)
Duraspark II (8 degrees initial)
160 or 180 thermostat (I forget which)
3 core brass radiator
no fan shroud
'62 four blade fan
aluminum water pump
I run 87 octane, the temperature is around 85

Does anyone know where I can get a fan shroud for the 6 cyl Falcon radiator? Would one from an early V8 Mustang work?

I am also figuring that I will run cooler with a 190 degree thermostat because it will allow the water in the radiator to stay in longer. The cooler thermostat seems like it just opens up and stays open. I have also heard it helps to drill a small hole in the thermostat to let air bubbles escape so if I end up changing the thermostat I will probably do that.

I also got an electric fan today I'm going to try. I am thinking of making brackets to mount it on instead of using the zipties that come with the kit. It can aparrently be configured as a pusher or a puller fan. I am thinking of installing it on the grille side of the core support and setting it up to push air through to the engine side. I am worried that this might block the radiator from the cool air moving in through the grille, however.

Any help, advice, or suggestions would be great. :lol:
 
Check the block temps with an infra-red thermometer, if possible. Your gauge could be a little off.
 
T stat should only effect the minimum temp. There is much debate on how the flow restriction effects things but I would not expect there to be a flow difference between the temps.

Also remember that 215 is still in the normal range. Modern cars run around there all the time. With the proper antifreeze water mix and 15 psi cap you should be good to around 250.
 
Eric Rose":lw15w3dd said:
I am also figuring that I will run cooler with a 190 degree thermostat because it will allow the water in the radiator to stay in longer.

This is a myth. Heat transfer doesn't work in the way that you think it does...faster flow is always better.
 
Yup. A classic example of this is where students in truck driving schools are mistakenly told to pull the engines down to 1200 rpm where the torque is...Wrong. On a summer time pull from Phoenix to Flagstaff the break down lane is going to be cluttered with over heated trucks because of that. Shifting down to where the truck pulls at 1700-1800 rpm on 1/2-3/4 throttle it will get in to the 240-250 degree range without the murphy switch shutting down the engine due to over heating. Less heat generation and higher flow helps.

A new engine may heat up a little until it is broke in and 215 degrees is not too high.
 
I relocated both heater hoses away from the exhaust side after connecting the electric choke. The car now runs cunsiderably cooler, even in traffic.
 
wallaka":2a2gc5n2 said:
Eric Rose":2a2gc5n2 said:
I am also figuring that I will run cooler with a 190 degree thermostat because it will allow the water in the radiator to stay in longer.

This is a myth. Heat transfer doesn't work in the way that you think it does...faster flow is always better.

8) the other thing is that the thermostat controls when the coolant flows through the radiator, not the actual temperature the engine will run at. if the system is designed to run at 200 degrees, and you install a 160 stat, the engine will still run at 200 degrees. if the system is designed to run at 175 degrees and you install a 200 stat, the engine will run at 200 desgrees because that is where the stat opens.

as for the temp you are running right now, 215 is a bit high for my comfort zone, but still acceptable. when you see 240, then i would worry.
 
I put the electric fan on today. No noticable difference, in fact it runs a fairly constant 190 - 200. Where before it would vary between 175 and 215.

I got a 190 degree thermostat to try as well.

I think part of the reason the electric fan isn't cooling the way I want it to is I used 2" wide straps to mount it that might cover too much of the surface of the radiator.

I'm going to keep fiddling with it this week. Maybe I will get it to run cool enough.
 
Bring your timing up to around 12 Degrees the motors like timing and this will help bring your temps down
 
Personally, I don't see that 215 is a problem, even if your gauge is accurate. Heck, you need it to run over 180-190 to boil out all of the condensation and so forth in the block. Otherwise bad things happen, the oil acidifies, etc. Not good.

Anyhow, have you tried that water wetter stuff? It's been good for 10-20 degrees when I've seen it used. Also, a muriatic acid flush through the block will get all sorts of rusty gunk out that will be missed unless you went through it with a coat hanger when you rebuilt the engine.
 
GTN1086
Bring your timing up to around 12 Degrees the motors like timing and this will help bring your temps down
Good idea, but if you advance 4 degrees you will have to check your total advance initial + centrifugal =total than add your vacuum advance.
36-38 degrees full throttle advance will put you in the ballpark.
12+13 X 2=26=38 total.
Do you have your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum? Seems to help idle with an engine with a wilder camshaft. Bill
 
like Wallaka said, 215 is not too bad.
how's your antifreeze to water, 50:50 ?
if you're heavy on the antifreeze, it will run on the hot side.
 
My antifreeze is somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 % green antifreeze to 80 % water. Before I dropped the new motor in I flushed my radiator extensively and I did get a lot of gunk out of it And I took every plug out of the motor before sending it to the machine shop. I also flushed the heater core and used new hoses. So I thought everything would be clean inside the cooling system. But my coolant is brown when I take my radiator cap off so I guess I need a good flush. :lol:
 
Eric Rose":34sbxhv6 said:
My antifreeze is somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 % green antifreeze to 80 % water. Before I dropped the new motor in I flushed my radiator extensively and I did get a lot of gunk out of it And I took every plug out of the motor before sending it to the machine shop. I also flushed the heater core and used new hoses. So I thought everything would be clean inside the cooling system. But my coolant is brown when I take my radiator cap off so I guess I need a good flush. :lol:

Sounds like we've done the same items with the same results. Mine is not perfect, but I seem to be able to keep it at bay.
 
go ahead and flush it. the antifreeze is also a rust inhibitor. you need 50:50. the brown stuff is likely just rust from not having enough inhibitor in the system.
 
Eric Rose":6ijbnsoc said:
But my coolant is brown when I take my radiator cap off so I guess I need a good flush. :lol:

Yep. If the water is brown there is a good chance there is also still some debris floating around. Could be that you radiator is a little clogged up now.

PITA, but I recommend you take it off and try to back flush it as well.
 
My '61 also likes to run hot, 200*+, it also has a 200, .060 over. Once, I made a shroud from a $29 mustang shroud that I cut down and re-riveted to fit. Ive since installed an alum radiator but it still runs hot on at high speeds. (I need to check my total timing.) I haven't installed the shroud, I need different mount brackets. I have a 16" elect fan in front, just in case.

One time I stopped by a knowledgeable radiator shop that said part of the problem could be being .060 over. They said that could dissapate the heat quicker to the water. Sounded good to me. Any thoughts???

I've been contemplating a thermo controlled oil cooler.
 
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