newbie with a '62 170 w/single barrel Holley

[jamyers]

Lessee...
* Load-O-Matic points-type (original for '62).
* Road draft tube in front of the distributor.
* Plugged pcv line coming from the carb adapter plate (original for '62 as well). It "shouldn't" have both a road draft tube and pcv, it should be one or the other, preferrably pcv - but that's nothing new here.
* Hot air choke - didn't '62's all come with manual chokes?
* Hose from carb to (apparently) fuel pump. I'd plug both ends and remove it. It may be part of vacuum wipers, or it may be just a hose where somebody connected on the fuel pump weep hole to the carb base.
* Good ol' Holley 1909 that looks pretty dirty on the outside. I'll bet the insides could use a cleaning as well, which may well be the source of your problems.

I'd start with making sure the distributor vacuum advance can moves under vacuum (put a rubber hose on it, it should move and stay put while you're sucking on it.). Then check the points gap, just for fun.
Then I'd tear into cleaning / adjusting that carb, being sure to replace the Spark Control Valve (comes in the kit, looks like a bit 1-inch threaded plug.).

btw, it looks like you've got kind of a mix of early 60's engine parts, between the '62 carb, possible vacuum assist fuel pump, road draft tube, etc. Are you SURE the engine block is a '62, and a 170 cid? I say this because short of pulling the head, it'd be awful hard to tell a 144 from a 170. Heck, they both had Holley 1909 carbs, but even they were different (the 144 had a smaller throat and a different venturi.). Just curious.

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

btw, it looks like you've got kind of a mix of early 60's engine parts, between the '62 carb, possible vacuum assist fuel pump, road draft tube, etc. Are you SURE the engine block is a '62, and a 170 cid? I say this because short of pulling the head, it'd be awful hard to tell a 144 from a 170. Heck, they both had Holley 1909 carbs, but even they were different (the 144 had a smaller throat and a different venturi.). Just curious.

At this time I'm not sure of anything!!

The engine is a 62 but it has been dropped into a 68. So if the engine came with a manual choke it doesn't now.

I guess at this point I need to wait for my rebuild kit. It was supposed to be here on Thursday and still no word. I will call tomorrow.[/quote]

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

I just rebuilt my first carburetor! I was impressed that the car started after I finished. I took it for a quick ride and it still stalled out. But I am not sure I have the fuel mix and idle set right. I set them based solely on what it said in the rebuild kit. I am sure they need adjusting. But while doing the rebuild there was what seems to me to be a significant difference in my carb and the view on the kit. My carb does not have a dashpot. Could this be the source of all my problems?

Thanks again for the encouragement. I know I have more things to do once I get it running consistently to get it running the best it can.

Tisch

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

My project for tonight will be to will with the vacuum advance like jamyers suggested. I can check the points gap but now keep in mind, I am new at this stuff. What should the gap be?

Do you have suggested order or guide of some sort for adjusting the carb? I think some of my stalling is due to the settings I made. I am hoping the open road puking out is fixed with the carb rebuild.

Is my thinking on track here or am I just showing my ignorance?

Thanks,
Tisch

 

[jamyers]

See, rebuilding a carb is easy as falling off a log - 2 Thumbs Up for you!
arty:
All the dashpot does is keep the throttle from slamming shut and stalling the engine with an automatic tranny (which keeps the engine under a slight load pretty much all the time). If it stalls when you take your foot off the gas, then you might could use one.

Start with the ignition, it's usually the best place anyways. (rummages through books...)
* Points Gap for all '60-'62 6-cylinder engines = .024-.026
* And if you have a Dwell-meter you can double-check it to:
Dwell Contact at Idle Speed = 35-38 degrees
* Initial (static) Timing: Manual tranny = 6 degrees, Automatic = 12 degrees
* Spark Plug Gap = .032-.036
If the above checks out, and the vacuum diaphragm holds, then I'd look to the carb. (and if the carb cleans up nicely and it still acts up, then I'd take a harder look at the coil and plug wires)

On adjusting the carb (warm engine of course);
1. Turning the mixture screw 2 turns out as a base setting,
2. Start the engine and adjust the idle speed screw to 500-525 (manual tranny) or 475-500 (automatic in Drive).
3. (Quoting Ford here) "Turn the mixture needle (screw) in until the engine begins to run rough from the lean mixture (don't bottom it out tightly). Back it out until the engine begins to "roll" from the rich mixture. Then turn the needle in until the engine runs smoothly. Always favor a slightly rich mixture rather than a lean mixture." I'd add that you can use a vacuum gauge to dial it in by adjusting the idle mixture screw in/out until you get the highest manifold vacuum reading.
4. Recheck the engine idle speed and re-adjust if needed.

Apart from setting the choke and fast idle, that's just all there is to one of those carbs.

As an aside, Ford used different carbs on engines with/without pcv systems, and in '62 ALL engines got pcv systems. From what I can tell, the only difference was that pcv engines got carbs jetted 1 size larger for use under 5,000 ft altitude.

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

The results are in.....sort of. My buddy had the car all weekend and found a couple of things wrong but only one that was related to my problem. I missed a small hole in the carb when I rebuilt it. He cleaned it out and it ran great. He adjusted the timing which was also off. He drove it for 2 days and then it stalled on him. After talking about it we realized that the problems happen when there is less than a 1/4 tank of gas. Also when he pulled the top of the carb there was rust in there was again. His conclusion, and I think he is probably right, is that there is still rust in the gas tank that is too small to get caught in the filter but it is still clogging the tiny hole in the carb (he told me what the hole was but I can't recall). So I am going to take the car to a place that can reline the tank. I am hoping this will do it for the problems with it running right. I will keep you informed.

I sure appreciate everyones help. What a great group of people. I am sure I will be hanging out here more. (Don't tell my wife but I have started looking for a 200 engine)


For the past 25 years or so I have worked at the Iola (Wisconsin) Old Car Show. This summer I will have something to shop for!!!

Thanks Again, I will let you know when I get the tank lined.

Tisch

 

[jamyers]

Yea! Glad you found the culprit! arty:

If you're bored want to have some more fun, (yeah, riiiiiight :roll: ) you can do quite a good job cleaning the tank out yourself. Put a couple quarts of automatic tranny fluid and a couple thousand bb's in there, and get a buddy to help you slosh it around a bit. That'll knock an amazing amount of junk loose. Dump that out, rinse with some water, then pour in some muriatic acid (available at finer pool supply stores near you). Let that eat on the rust, then rinse w/ water. Dry well, then there are several products that you can use to coat the inside, like POR-15 or there's a "sloshing compound" that the british car guys use (their tanks rust like mad).

 

[Frankenstang]

Definitely...Congrats!

I don't know if there are any repro tanks available...there is all kinds of mustang repro tanks out there for reasonable price, but not sure the '68 Falcon and Mustang tanks interchange?...maybe someone else knows.

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

Thanks,

I thought about doing the tank myself. i read one place about the sloshing compound and was told I could get it at an airport. BUT, Everyone talks about how harsh the stuff is. I talked to a guy that works at an airport and he said he hates using it. Of course that kind of thing never stopped me before.
The bigger thing is time right now. Between work, hunting season and winter coming on I am afraid I can't get it done. I am going to call down to a radiator repair place. My buddy had the tank on a '39 Ford done for $50 bucks a couple of years ago.

If all goes well I am hoping to either painting the car or having it painted in the spring. The guy who sold it to me did a great job of making it appealing from 30 feet but when you get up close it is awful. The color is not a 68 Ford color. But my daughter likes it. So we are debating whether to go original or keep it the same look but with auto paint instead of rustoleum!

I'll keep you posted on the tank and I will get a picture of the car up on here soon.

 

[Anonymous]

I bought a new tank from ebay for my 65 falcon. If you check there might be one there for yours also. None of my suppliers have one listed for the 68. Sorry but I tried.

 

[addo]

They are available - and the 36 gallon variant too , but less common than Mustang tanks, not interchangeable, and quite dear.

 

[jamyers]

They are available - and the 36 gallon variant too , but less common than Mustang tanks, not interchangeable, and quite dear.

36 gallons? Yow, I want one of those - I could go for a month or better without filling.

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

I learned something interesting today. My 68 Falcon is a Futura. I just learned that the standard engine for the Futura was a 200. Now I know I need to look for the 200 engine.

The car ran pretty good today. Now I may not let my daughter drive it. I'm getting kind of used to it.

 

[Anonymous]

Getting used to cars is the easy part, keeping them going is the hard part. Don't deprive your daughter of being in a great car that gets good milege and looks good and is safer for her. These things were built to last and thats why they are still here. Take care of her. Then both will last a long time.

 

[Frankenstang]

Now I know I need to look for the 200 engine.

Now just have to sell the wife on that, huh? ...."yeah honey, it's an investment...that's the ticket"

36 gallons? Yow, I want one of those

No kidding, talk about a camel.

 

[Anonymous]

Give me a few more days and I might have that 200 you are looking for. I am thinking about a 302 swap. champion2211 I am in San antonio

 

[Tisch68Falcon]

I'm in WI. I'll just drive it down and you can help throw it in for the ride back.

"Honey, I'm running to get some milk. Be back Next Thursday."

Think she'll buy it?

I have a list of things for the spring. Should this come before or after the paint job?

Tisch

 

[Anonymous]

The best way to get what you want is to give first.
Honey: How would you like a vacation?
Oh great where are we going?
I thought we would go to Texas.

 

[Anonymous]

The best way to get what you want is to give first.
Honey: How would you like a vacation?
Oh great where are we going?
I thought we would go to Texas.
Texas, and I thought we could visit the Alamo
The sunken gardens, the museum, and have some of the best Mexican Food in the world.
Oh and while we are there I can pick up a few things.
Oh honey what was that?
Just the engine that belongs in the Falcon.
Thats sounds great honey Ill go and start packing now.
Now wasn't that a lot easier for her to swallow? It might cost a little more but you get what you want. As well as she gets a fabalous vacation also.

 

[jamyers]

Don't forget the River Walk.