Next step up from the Holley 1940?
- Thread starter MalcolmA
- Start date
Howdy Again:
Yes, Malcolm, You will need to flare out the top of the adapter. Think of it as countersinking a hole for a screw. The intake manifold is cast onto the head, but there is a soft metal carb adapter that goes between the carb and the cast manifold. That is the piece that needs to be flared. The stock carb hole is 1 1/2". The throttle bore of the 1101 is 1 11/16". So, I took a rat tail file to the inner lip after stuffing an oily rag down the hole to keep filings from going into the engine. You will need to file around the top until the butterfly valve of the 1101 clears the lip. This is not ideal, but you will notice a nice increase for an almost bolt-on upgrade.
Ideally, you would want to bore out the carb hole to 1 3/4" but that would require that the head be removed and you can fine a machine shop with a drill that big.
I vote for a DS II also, but if you can find a core in the recycle yard you can get the distributor, coil, module, wiring harness and plug wires all for the same price. Then clean and assess before installing.
Adios, David
Yes, Malcolm, You will need to flare out the top of the adapter. Think of it as countersinking a hole for a screw. The intake manifold is cast onto the head, but there is a soft metal carb adapter that goes between the carb and the cast manifold. That is the piece that needs to be flared. The stock carb hole is 1 1/2". The throttle bore of the 1101 is 1 11/16". So, I took a rat tail file to the inner lip after stuffing an oily rag down the hole to keep filings from going into the engine. You will need to file around the top until the butterfly valve of the 1101 clears the lip. This is not ideal, but you will notice a nice increase for an almost bolt-on upgrade.
Ideally, you would want to bore out the carb hole to 1 3/4" but that would require that the head be removed and you can fine a machine shop with a drill that big.
I vote for a DS II also, but if you can find a core in the recycle yard you can get the distributor, coil, module, wiring harness and plug wires all for the same price. Then clean and assess before installing.
Adios, David
It may B time for you to educate yourself.
Researching 1st B4 taking on a system as complex as an automobile is a good idea. (At least 4 me as I'm not a mechanic).
You could buy the "Handbook" we often mention here.
I would suggest a simpler, cheeper begining by taking a tour through the huge amount of info on the Classic Inlines site. After reading that I knew what questions to ask. (I went onto the "Handbook" and now am rebuilding another's engine & will place it in a vehicle I've had since '87).
No substitute for understanding 'cept may B friends on the ground, local. (We're just in cyberspace - but helpful too!).
8)
Researching 1st B4 taking on a system as complex as an automobile is a good idea. (At least 4 me as I'm not a mechanic).
You could buy the "Handbook" we often mention here.
I would suggest a simpler, cheeper begining by taking a tour through the huge amount of info on the Classic Inlines site. After reading that I knew what questions to ask. (I went onto the "Handbook" and now am rebuilding another's engine & will place it in a vehicle I've had since '87).
No substitute for understanding 'cept may B friends on the ground, local. (We're just in cyberspace - but helpful too!).
8)
Absolutely, I have a lot to learn and that's what I'm trying to do here. I'm reading the books, I'm talking face to face and I'm asking questions in forums. I find that I learn best when I'm working on an example myself, rather absorbing large amounts of text. That's why I'm starting small (changing oil, filters, spark plugs) and looking ahead to something bigger, like swapping out the carb and rebuilding the old one. I'm probably getting a bit too eager and asking questions that already have a lot of answers out there. Still, I really appreciate all the help and patience.
I'm da same. dude!
AND as I go on through this world I find some reading 1st is a good prep. As I said:
"...beginning by taking a tour through the huge amount of info on the Classic Inlines site..."
helped show me things I wasn't even aware of - couldn't even ask Qs about.
I too learn beddah from:
",,, 'cept may B friends on the ground,,,"
and close by to point to real objects under yer/my hood!
2 that end - may B put yer location on under yer name for folks to locate U easier...
(Another site has geographic 'chapters' and we have a lill back channel chat, get together monthly for adult beverages'n tailgate instructions. That's what the net has become 4 me - seek globally, connect locally).
AND as I go on through this world I find some reading 1st is a good prep. As I said:
"...beginning by taking a tour through the huge amount of info on the Classic Inlines site..."
helped show me things I wasn't even aware of - couldn't even ask Qs about.
I too learn beddah from:
",,, 'cept may B friends on the ground,,,"
and close by to point to real objects under yer/my hood!
2 that end - may B put yer location on under yer name for folks to locate U easier...
(Another site has geographic 'chapters' and we have a lill back channel chat, get together monthly for adult beverages'n tailgate instructions. That's what the net has become 4 me - seek globally, connect locally).
MalcolmA":36rzpc50 said:
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/autolite-1100-carburetor
lots there.
I'd suggest your local junk yard (any of ours usta let us wonder around and look @ stuff - pick the best - not anymore) because you can see how different models are installed. It's a nice learning field. Also a better price and practice in disessembly…
Many on this site will get a carb from an online dealer or private individual and even if "rebuilt" rebuild it properly.
Go to the CI LOM/SCV article (if not having done so yet) to understand how the carb/distrub 'feedback' system works. You'll have a better result in understanding how to swap to this improved system (w/DSII, 1968+ carb etc)…
Keep talkin
bmbm40":oovox4ze said:
I'm not so sure,
Just so long as it's (lom/)SCV pre '68 Autolite.
Bubba's 1st post will align you with this needed proviso.
Dizzy/carb "feedback" has to match in an integrated system…
Not sure what you have tho cuz I didn't see it discussed anywhere, coulda missed it tho.
Edited:
Yes, U need to decide if you wanna go w/the new improved performance post '67 carb & DSII dizzy or stay period correct w/SCV/LOM B 4 buying a carb. Most go more modern and have reliability, performance and none lookin under the hood notice (except for the DSII's 'module", brain. computer, whatever). Even that is not noticeable except to the few.
yes, I believe so. U can't "mix over the break yr". Either LOM / SCV (dizzy/carb) pre '68 so they match.
/OR/
'68 & later carb & dizzy.
The DSII is (sorta, one of the) '68 plus system the carb u perchased (R thinking of purchasing) is non-spark control valve too.
classicinlines.com/tech.asp
If you are considering a 2V carb swap, or replacing your 1V carb, make sure you read our tech article on the Load-O-Matic distributor. We also have several tech articles to assist you in selecting the right carb for your application, as well as the installation method.
/OR/
'68 & later carb & dizzy.
The DSII is (sorta, one of the) '68 plus system the carb u perchased (R thinking of purchasing) is non-spark control valve too.
classicinlines.com/tech.asp
If you are considering a 2V carb swap, or replacing your 1V carb, make sure you read our tech article on the Load-O-Matic distributor. We also have several tech articles to assist you in selecting the right carb for your application, as well as the installation method.
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