Odd Build Idea

[CZLN6]

Howdy:

Does the paper work indicate the size of a cylinder overbore? if any? Thanks for the casting codes. The "E" suffixes indicate a fairly late in the model year run with that engineering change. A fairly good indication of a Hydraulic lifter engine. Does the paper work indicate if the head was milled? What head gasket was used? OEM Steel shim? Or aftermarket composite? What is your time line for your access to the machine shop?

Adios, David

 

[170-3tree]

My actual timeline to work will be a semester one day a week three hours each. But it is fairly well known that the instructors will let people work after classes or in spare time. I am not sure when that class will take place yet, but not until fall semester at the earliest so I would like to have this as planned out as possible and maybe start accumulating parts so there is little to no downtime to work. I found a company that will custom make connecting rods from various materials, but I would need to talk to them and get prices before assuming that would happen. Figure lighter, but stronger wouldn't be a bad idea? of course dependant on the price...
The paper work only indicates a re-hone and iirc the gasket we pulled was a shim not a composite. It had the original pistons, but crosshatched below the rings I believe.

 

[blueroo]

170, its good to see another 62-65 'lane sedan running a 170 (mines a 64)...I know this is getting away from your original topic but if you want both "power" and efficiency go with a t5. When I did my t5 swap the car got a heck of a lot quicker and my mileage jumped. Plus the length of the adapter and t5 is the same as the 2.77 youre running now so no shortening of the driveshaft.

As for the engine, first note Im an amateur at this still, Mike, rbohm, etc are much more knowledgable than me. That being said it is my belief that the 170 cant breathe well. If you can give it breathing room itll start to come to life. I would focus on that first and foremost

 

[170-3tree]

The only thing holding me back from the T5 swap is funds and my lack of fabrication skills in making the cross member and putting a hole in my floor for a shifter. In the future I plan on pulling the head and doing some porting and cc'ing the chambers, evening them out and maybe milling the head to compensate for the head gasket. This will include a Three angle valve job and deshrouding the valves. I was actually wondering about keeping the stock intake valve size and increasing the size of the exhaust valves to the next year's standard just to even it out a little bit without dumping in a ton more fuel. After many once overs on carb choices the vaporizer seems like the best option. I bought a cam from a source in a stock rebuild kit, but it occurs to me that 'maybe it should be degreed as any after market cam???'

I will need to look up GOOD info on the
T5 swap including EVERYTHING I would need (maybe part numbers as the only thing i will get from the junkyard will be the tranny)
Good porting information. How-to's etc.
While it is known that rotating assembly work won't improve things GREATLY, I would still like to try some tricks to see if any good could come from it. Unless anyone on here thinks it would cause problems.

The tranny swap was going to wait a while longer because I was afraid I would have to take out the bench seat to do it, but it seems that may not be the case anymore.