Drummadude
Active member
The steering box on my Ranger is right where the filter is. Anyone have a part number/ good recommendation for a relocation kit?
Thank you for the recommendation! And the PN! Whenever I Google search something I come up with all kinds of stuff, even though I keyword specifically, and I will undoubtably end up with the wrong part.When clearances are tight, I use a short 3/4-16 thread 90° adapter like the $25 one below. Whatever remote filter mount you like. A single for stock, perhaps a double-filter for low-restriction flow to oil your twin turbos.Use good thread sealer on the fittings, finger-tight, then wrench it 1 to 1½-turns, so you don't crack thin cast housings. I use Loctite 567 for most NPT things.
Trans-Dapt 1413:
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Be sure to use hydraulic-quality lines. A line rupture will drop pressure so fast you may not have time to even react before damage is done. Periodic checking of the lines and condition of the fittings is necessary if the filter is mounted anywhere not on the engine, due to engine vibration being transferred to the stationary filter thru the lines. Over time the vibration can cause fatigue at the joints or in the line.Thank you for the recommendation! And the PN! Whenever I Google search something I come up with all kinds of stuff, even though I keyword specifically, and I will undoubtably end up with the wrong part.
Frank, thank you for sharing that knowledge! I had seen use of braided lines on some of the kits.Be sure to use hydraulic-quality lines. A line rupture will drop pressure so fast you may not have time to even react before damage is done. Periodic checking of the lines and condition of the fittings is necessary if the filter is mounted anywhere not on the engine, due to engine vibration being transferred to the stationary filter thru the lines. Over time the vibration can cause fatigue at the joints or in the line.
Yes, braided is good, just don't cut corners on quality. . Learned the importance of keeping an eye on external oil/hydraulic lines on commercial fishing boats where there's lots of vibration, shifting motion and corrosion. More than once taking them for granted and not checking condition-especially the fittings where the hose is joined to the metal flange- resulted in an oily mess and major disruption of the operation.Frank, thank you for sharing that knowledge! I had seen use of braided lines on some of the kits.
I'm very pleased with my adapter (same as above) on the 240. . FWIW I ordered a TransDapt relocator and returned it because the internal passages were sharp-edged and restrictive. The Ford Performance 90* adapter is chamfered and is a high quality piece. And eliminates the risks inherent with external lines.Also look into ''Ford M-6880-B50 90 degree oil filter adapter'' it uses the newer shorter FL820 or the smaller FL500.
I used the early version on my 66 Mustang hot rod with a narrowed rack and pinion steering, to clear the filter.
Less money and work.
SO this PN is good for an i250?Also look into ''Ford M-6880-B50 90 degree oil filter adapter'' it uses the newer shorter FL820 or the smaller FL500.
I used the early version on my 66 Mustang hot rod with a narrowed rack and pinion steering, to clear the filter.
Less money and work.
So this C5TE for a 300 will work on an i250 as well?If you have room enough for a 90° filter adapter, then the Ford 300's C5TE adapter may be at your local wreckers, cheap. It can also use the short Mopar-style filter (Wix 51068), and others even shorter. Just another option. Lots of options.![]()
I just looked at a 250 block and I am not sure it will work for you. It was just an idea to think about, I have not fitted one to a 250 it may not work.SO this PN is good for an i250?
What oil filter does the engine use? If it's Motorcraft FL1 then this PN will work. It's advertised for V8's but they use the same filter as the big6, and the adapter fits correctly.So this C5TE for a 300 will work on an i250 as well?
Yes, Frank it does, the issue is that I cannot say it will for sure clear things without tiring it on a 250 myself and not knowing his setup. It may work just fine, some testing and judgement will be needed.What oil filter does the engine use? If it's Motorcraft FL1 then this PN will work. It's advertised for V8's but they use the same filter as the big6, and the adapter fits correctly.
I got 'cha.Yes, Frank it does, the issue is that I cannot say it will for sure clear things without tiring it on a 250 myself and not knowing his setup. It may work just fine, some testing and judgement will be needed.
Yes, please kind sir! I will be back over to the Garage tomorrow to work on cobbling up a rear sump oil pan with my welder. Found a boneyard a couple of counties away with a small 6 oil pan for $40 and heading on a short trip to pick it up before heading back to the garage.I got 'cha.
Drummadude, if you want me to measure the height of the adapter from the block, let me know.
Yes, my 250 used the FL1A filter, which has a 3/4"x16 thread. Each of the adapters listed will fit those threads. The C5 simply turns it 90°, while others do also, but adapt to a different filter thread for other filter numbers (metric). Verify the adapter you are looking at fits the male block threads of 3/4x16, and the other end for whatever filter you want to use.So this C5TE for a 300 will work on an i250 as well?
Would like to hear details on your progress regarding making a rear sump pan for the 250. I will need that for my 66 Bronco.Yes, please kind sir! I will be back over to the Garage tomorrow to work on cobbling up a rear sump oil pan with my welder. Found a boneyard a couple of counties away with a small 6 oil pan for $40 and heading on a short trip to pick it up before heading back to the garage.
BTW, I want to say thanks to all of you for your help. I have had hardly any help given on my Ranger forums when dealing with Ranger questions I ask. It's like, if your a newbie, your a nuisance, why bother, and crickets on my post.