All Small Six Oil Filter relocation kit for 250 straight 6

This relates to all small sixes
The filter I'm using is a Motorcraft FL 820-S. It's wider than the adapter housing, but there is a skinner filter, which I used on initial break in. It is no wider than the outer rim of the adapter. It's Motorcraft FL 500-S. The adapter filter threads are metric, the FL-1 filter will not work. If you have 3 inches of horizonal space between the block and the steering box there's room to spare. The vertical depth is about 5 1/2" from the block filter nipple to the bottom of the filter. In the pic I added an inch which about how much longer the FL 500-S filter is.

DSC06356.JPG
DSC06357.JPG
DSC06358.JPG
 
#10 looks too big rather than ‘more space’.
“The middle” in #21 seems better.. HOW Bout
something like a “remote mount” by that oil co...
C if I can remember,,, yeah Amizol
You may not need 2 filters but this may solve a space problem (& like usual - creat many others) aahahahaa
/OR/
allow U to think of other co’s “remote mounts’...?

BTW bmbc: the 250 pan’s top circle was brazed to a rear sump 170/bronk for my 250 bronk install. A 3.3’s would wrk too.
U need the other’s oil pu, strap/bolt, and screen too as now you changed the pan’s floor.
 
chad said:
#10 looks too big rather than ‘more space’.
“The middle” in #21 seems better.. HOW Bout
something like a “remote mount” by that oil co...
C if I can remember,,, yeah Amizol
You may not need 2 filters but this may solve a space problem (& like usual - creat many others) aahahahaa
/OR/
allow U to think of other co’s “remote mounts’...?

BTW bmbc: the 250 pan’s top circle was brazed to a rear sump 170/bronk for my 250 bronk install. A 3.3’s would wrk too.
U need the other’s oil pu, strap/bolt, and screen too as now you changed the pan’s floor.
Click to expand...
The pic on post #10 is the same engine as pic #21. Dreuuadude is trying to clear the steering box. Regardless of the filter used on the adapter, this adapter stands off from the block less than the FL-1 filter does so it should solve the issue, if there's room for the filter aiming in another direction. The adapter can be clocked in any direction, so the filter location can be anywhere, where ever there's enough room.
In post #1 he was looking at the remote mount filter. If the on-block adapter would fit it's a safer solution, as there's no external oil lines to worry about. The Amsol remote kit you posted is probably a good quality part, but the TransDapt he posted in #1 is not that great. I bought one and returned it, poorly cast with sharp restrictive internal passages.
 
& so this is presented. I no I’m a poor writer but thought that clear,
With the addition of looking at others of similar design. Thnx 8^ )
 
Frank said:
The filter I'm using is a Motorcraft FL 820-S. It's wider than the adapter housing, but there is a skinner filter, which I used on initial break in. It is no wider than the outer rim of the adapter. It's Motorcraft FL 500-S. The adapter filter threads are metric, the FL-1 filter will not work. If you have 3 inches of horizonal space between the block and the steering box there's room to spare. The vertical depth is about 5 1/2" from the block filter nipple to the bottom of the filter. In the pic I added an inch which about how much longer the FL 500-S filter is.

View attachment 22486
View attachment 22487
View attachment 22488
Click to expand...
Thank you for the measurements! That may work, my work time was short due to the 2.5 hour round trip to pick up the oil pan, so I did not pull a tape, but did eyeball it with my GF's brother who came down from Ohio to visit ( the other reason my day ended at 5:15 pm). I have the engine temporarily setting on the frame, but I did not snap a pic, though I have one before I landed it. Once I have the oil pan modifiedengine 1.jpg and the engine precisely mounted, I will be able to see if that will work. I like the look of that and if I don't have to run hydraulic lines that would be a plus. I have a Power Assist Steering unit I want to install and the lines would be encroaching on it's territory.
 
Drummadude said:
Thank you for the measurements! That may work, my work time was short due to the 2.5 hour round trip to pick up the oil pan, so I did not pull a tape, but did eyeball it with my GF's brother who came down from Ohio to visit ( the other reason my day ended at 5:15 pm). I have the engine temporarily setting on the frame, but I did not snap a pic, though I have one before I landed it. Once I have the oil pan modifiedView attachment 22491 and the engine precisely mounted, I will be able to see if that will work. I like the look of that and if I don't have to run hydraulic lines that would be a plus. I have a Power Assist Steering unit I want to install and the lines would be encroaching on it's territory.
Click to expand...
Nice build man! Lookin good, indeed. . Yeah, especially if there's already PS hoses in the vicinity- the remote filter lines would crowd the scene. A part of why I drive all old stuff: no electronic clutter, a clean uncrowded engine bay.
 
chad said:
#10 looks too big rather than ‘more space’.
“The middle” in #21 seems better.. HOW Bout
something like a “remote mount” by that oil co...
C if I can remember,,, yeah Amizol
You may not need 2 filters but this may solve a space problem (& like usual - creat many others) aahahahaa
/OR/
allow U to think of other co’s “remote mounts’...?

BTW bmbc: the 250 pan’s top circle was brazed to a rear sump 170/bronk for my 250 bronk install. A 3.3’s would wrk too.
U need the other’s oil pu, strap/bolt, and screen too as now you changed the pan’s floor.
Click to expand...
Hi Chad,
Thanks for that info it is very helpful. My initial thought was to separate the sump from the 250 ring/circle and turn around and weld together but this method is probably better. And I have the rear sump pick up tube assembly from the original 170. Unfortunately I do not weld so have to find a fabricator. I am starting planning this Phase II of my Bronco mods so working on my strategery and making sure parts are on hand. This will be the final major rehab unless I decide to have my spare 250 rebuilt with some mild performance mods.
 
just put a C4 and 302 in a ranger. Carb link was the hardest part (holley 4100 due to 4WD).
I’d go AOD if it were mine.
 
Frank said:
The filter I'm using is a Motorcraft FL 820-S. It's wider than the adapter housing, but there is a skinner filter, which I used on initial break in. It is no wider than the outer rim of the adapter. It's Motorcraft FL 500-S. The adapter filter threads are metric, the FL-1 filter will not work. If you have 3 inches of horizonal space between the block and the steering box there's room to spare. The vertical depth is about 5 1/2" from the block filter nipple to the bottom of the filter. In the pic I added an inch which about how much longer the FL 500-S filter is.

View attachment 22486
View attachment 22487
View attachment 22488
Click to expand...
I temp mounted the engine for measurements and this isn't going to work, going to have to go with the filter relocate kit.oil filter measure.jpg
 
No biggie to use remote, if you use appropriate hose secured properly. No worse than common remote oil coolers for risk. (y) If you get an inexpensive or roughly-finished adapter, clean up the edges or angles like any other part.
 
Drummadude said:
I temp mounted the engine for measurements and this isn't going to work, going to have to go with the filter relocate kit.
Click to expand...
Well that stinks. However it looks like the adapter might still fit- remember it clocks in any direction. Looking back at my pic, it looks to be about 2 1/4" on the top side, you clock that toward the front with the filter facing rearward. . Not recommending just saying.
If you go with a relocator just check it out real good before install. you may want to do some light smoothing/enlarging of some of the passages.
 
X2^, you may have to saw or grind off or shorten a unneeded boss or two. It may be close to your motor mount, cannot see in that pic. I remove all unused bosses to save weight but I am doing something different than you, it is cheaper than carbon fiber or titanium. ;)
 
Last edited:
“...pick up tube assembly from the original 170. Unfortunately I do not weld..."
I think I used a rear sump 3.3 p/u’n screen as it had 'the 1/8th inch off floor' and
arm to mount to a main cap. Also its more like ‘braze’ than weld when I did it there.
 
Frank said:
Well that stinks. However it looks like the adapter might still fit- remember it clocks in any direction. Looking back at my pic, it looks to be about 2 1/4" on the top side, you clock that toward the front with the filter facing rearward. . Not recommending just saying.
If you go with a relocator just check it out real good before install. you may want to do some light smoothing/enlarging of some of the passages.
Click to expand...
I just saw a picture of what you were saying about being able to cock it at an angle, that may work. Now to find the right part number for an i250.Ford 90 adapter.png
 
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