Oil smoke on new rebuild of 223

[jminor]

It is running to cool. A fresh engine runs hotter during break-in, there is a lot more added friction with new rings and from the cylinders being honed. Many people are concerned about the rise in temp but it is temporary. A hotter thermostat should be used also. I would want the engine to be running a minimum of 180.

Great advice. I put in the thermostat that was listed in the repair manual for Ford 223.
Should I switch back to the 180 degree part after break-in or 180 seems like the right temp for the life of the engine?

 

[jminor]

Understandable for sure. However, I would recommend a flat-cap non vented in place of the vented. It's possible the natural chimney-effect of the hot vapors rising and exiting the VC could cause the draft tube to become a source of air being drawn into the engine, not good since it's unfiltered. Also it keeps the oily mess off the top of the engine, and from smelling it in the vehicle.
This change won't solve the problem unfortunately, but will cause the system to operate as designed.

Last comment: run the engine hard to break it in. Somehow I grew up with the common notion to baby a new engine. I learned different when I got involved in commercial diesel overhaul. First fire-up after rebuild: One to two minutes idle to verify vitals, then the engine is "floored" to max governor speed in neutral for 20 minutes. Yikes! Then put directly back into normal service, moving a semi or heavy boat. I like your plan to just run it a while- be sure to include frequent WOT pulls- daily. No over-revving, just hard loading. My 240 full overhaul last year, with less than 2 hours on the engine I went to a rural country road and did repeated WOT take offs to 4500 rpm thru every gear for 45 minutes. Normal driving since. To date the engine has used no oil-none- since initial start. There is a legit chance that hard running of your engine could clear and seat the rings.

Thanks for keeping us posted, best of luck with a resolution.
.

Thanks for explaining it. I learn everyday.
I'll find the right, non-vented cap and get it into place.
"WOT" through each gear, got it.
I'll post results as soon as I get it done.
Busy getting an 80' square body ready for paint by next weekend as well.
Good times.

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

It doesn't sound like your 180 thermostat is running at it's temperature set-point. You say it's running and driving around 160. Do you trust the accuracy of your gauge?

 

[manglass]

FWIW, the 223 in my '58 F-100 has had a vented oil filler cap and a road draft tube since it was new. Back then, it was a regular part of every oil change to clean the oil filler cap in the parts washer. The road draft tube was usually cleaned up during a tune-up. This procedure was for almost all makes up until PCV. I don't think there is anything wrong with your crankcase ventilation system unless one or both of your vents are clogged.

Lou Manglass

 

[Frank]

FWIW, the 223 in my '58 F-100 has had a vented oil filler cap and a road draft tube since it was new. Back then, it was a regular part of every oil change to clean the oil filler cap in the parts washer. The road draft tube was usually cleaned up during a tune-up. This procedure was for almost all makes up until PCV. I don't think there is anything wrong with your crankcase ventilation system unless one or both of your vents are clogged.

Lou Manglass

good info Lou, thanks. My AMC flathead also has a vented top on the dipstick, which serves as the oil fill tube also. Plus the draft vent on the other side. Those are both about the same horizonal plane. It seems a vent high on the engine (VC) would negate the effectiveness of the tube since heat rises. It's not hurting anything with most of the vapor escaping from the top, just smelly and messy underhood.

 

[Bill1958]

Understandable for sure. However, I would recommend a flat-cap non vented in place of the vented. It's possible the natural chimney-effect of the hot vapors rising and exiting the VC could cause the draft tube to become a source of air being drawn into the engine, not good since it's unfiltered. Also it keeps the oily mess off the top of the engine, and from smelling it in the vehicle.
This change won't solve the problem unfortunately, but will cause the system to operate as designed.

Last comment: run the engine hard to break it in. Somehow I grew up with the common notion to baby a new engine. I learned different when I got involved in commercial diesel overhaul. First fire-up after rebuild: One to two minutes idle to verify vitals, then the engine is "floored" to max governor speed in neutral for 20 minutes. Yikes! Then put directly back into normal service, moving a semi or heavy boat. I like your plan to just run it a while- be sure to include frequent WOT pulls- daily. No over-revving, just hard loading. My 240 full overhaul last year, with less than 2 hours on the engine I went to a rural country road and did repeated WOT take offs to 4500 rpm thru every gear and just general romping the gas in high gear winding it up from slow speed- for about 45 minutes. Normal driving since. To date the engine has used no oil-none- since initial start. There is a legit chance that hard running of your engine could clear and seat the rings.

Thanks for keeping us posted, best of luck with a resolution.
.

I thought the same thing when I was younger...baby a new engine. About 45 years ago I was talking to my neighbor...telling me a story about the 1963 1/2 Galaxie 500 427 he bought new...smoked the tires and ran it to red line all day right out of the showroom. He said if you're gonna race the car and run it hard...that's how you break it in. If it's just used for commuting...then break it in easy.
It sounds like your method makes sense for either type of driving...and just watch to not go over red line.
Still no $$$ for machine work or parts...but with the Lord's help I believe better days are coming...not just for me either : )

 

[jminor]

FWIW, the 223 in my '58 F-100 has had a vented oil filler cap and a road draft tube since it was new. Back then, it was a regular part of every oil change to clean the oil filler cap in the parts washer. The road draft tube was usually cleaned up during a tune-up. This procedure was for almost all makes up until PCV. I don't think there is anything wrong with your crankcase ventilation system unless one or both of your vents are clogged.

Lou Manglass

I appreciate it.
I have no mess from the vented cap.

 

[jminor]

It doesn't sound like your 180 thermostat is running at it's temperature set-point. You say it's running and driving around 160. Do you trust the accuracy of your gauge?

New aftermarket gauge and line with a new sensor. I have no reason to believe it's not working but I could try a different one to be sure.

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

New aftermarket gauge and line with a new sensor. I have no reason to believe it's not working but I could try a different one to be sure.

thermostats have been proved over and over again to be reliably inaccurate.

 

[manglass]

New aftermarket gauge and line with a new sensor. I have no reason to believe it's not working but I could try a different one to be sure.

After the thermostat opens, check the upper hose with an infrared temp gun.

 

[philford]

sounds like covering up part of the rad with a hunk of cardboard might not be a bad plan if you want it to heat up a little more or a little faster , so long as you dont go crazy overheating it. Its designed to run in hot temps so whan its cool out you dont need the whole rad unless you are really pushing things. Just watch the guage so long as it's working ok. you could use the hand held thing periodically too..