Ok I'm Lost...

Slipknotcc

Well-known member
Hey Guys. I'm utterly confused. I have a 65 Mustang with a 200ci. My car wouldn't start, the starter would just click. So I figured I needed a new starter. Put it in, and now whenever i go to start the car, the starter kicks on but when I put the key to off, the starter keeps going, to the point that I have to unhook the battery. Once I hook the battery back up, the starter stays off until i try the key again. I then changed both the ignition switch, and solenoid both to no avail. So I come to you guys hoping that its just something that I over looked. Any Help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Cory
 
Just tried what FalconSedanDelivery said, and the starter still keeps going. If this makes any difference when i took out the old starter, it looked as though it had been burned or something of the sort. There were some scorch marks, and the thick gauge wire that connects to it had some melted insulation, which i repaired.

Thanks,
Cory
 
I don't know how old your battery is, but I had one once on a truck that would do that and it turned out to be a weak battery.It would still start but it had that annoying problem. It just didn't do it every time. Just a thought if nothing else pans out.
 
Inline Fever: Do you mean the solenoid? because if so i already changed that out. If its not that then what does this relay look like?

bigfordsix: I actually have just put a new battery in as well, so it shouldn't be that.

Im still puzzled by this guys. Any more ideas will be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Cory
 
Ill check that diagram in the morning, but my only question is how could connections get crossed like that when i didnt change anything within the wiring? Everything I've changed has been pretty much bolt on replacements. Well ill start tracing my connections in the morning.

Thanks Guys,

Cory
 
you've got a car that's over 40 years old, chances are that the wiring is messed up at some point in the car
you might've jiggled something loose, you might've unintentionally created a ground, you might've you might've you might've

not saying you did, but just about anything is possible
 
Frayed wire, short to ground, broken or intermittent continuity, loose wire grounding the INSIDE of something -- misidentified conductors on re-installation. All easy to get/do, especially when the insulators start changing color from age and all look like stripes of black and gray.

Then there are all the PO dis-improvements that you might not have noticed, especially back up under the dash.
 
Sometimes new products a flawed out of the box. Yes, I read the original post. Obviously there is some scramble in the switching; crossed wires, bad ground, short or misrouted leads.

Maybe I should have clarified: switch, paraswitch and periswitch wiring.
 
Slipknotcc":35mbtsyd said:
Inline Fever: Do you mean the solenoid? because if so i already changed that out. If its not that then what does this relay look like?

Thanks,
Cory
no its called a relay. replace it.
 
Slipknotcc":1z3vkk32 said:
Do you mean the solenoid? because if so i already changed that out. If its not that then what does this relay look like?

In the wiring diagram ludwig posted, it's the one labeled "Starter Relay".

Most times, when somebody says "starter solenoid", they're referring to the same thing (but different shape/location) on a GM starter. fwiw.

Edit: If/when you replace it, get a good "Made in USA" one, they're worth the extra 10 bucks. Seriously, and this from a real tightwad.
 
I've always called it a solenoid. It looks like this:

wlsf496g003.jpg


But you stated you replaced this and still had the same problem. If you are having the same problem with 2 different solenoids (relays or whatver :D ) then I would look elsewhere. While I would have also replaced this first, based on what you've stated, I'd look for some of the wires that are coming off of this relay to see if they are shorting out. Good luck and please post what you find.
 
Yes that's the relay thingy that people call the solenoid. And they can be temperamental too. I got a brand new one and the shell was cracked out of the box. There are the cheap China ones and the OEM ones, which can be bad as well.
 
Slipknotcc":32b88olr said:
Hey Guys. I'm utterly confused. I have a 65 Mustang with a 200ci. My car wouldn't start, the starter would just click. So I figured I needed a new starter.

At this point I probably would have suspected the battery. With insufficient voltage you'll get the clicking sound. However, a sufficiently worn starter with worn out brushes will take more than normal juice to fire. The higher draw could cause the melting of the cable lining.

I think you have a bad rebuilt? starter. Being as that was the only thing you originally changed, that is all I would have originally suspected. I have had MULTIPLE rebuilt starters fail/faulty right off the shelf, and I had this same problem on one of those occasions.

Best way I understood it was, that the bendix gear is jamming stuck to the flywheel. Once stuck it maintains the field that keeps the solenoid/relay plunger engaged maintaining power feed/draw(DC) to starter. Until you interrupt power to it, it continues to draw. You could try rapping the side the starter with hammer/wrench while it's doing this to see if you can make it disengage or mess around with shims, but I would just take the starter back (likely poor reconstruction)...and it won't test bad because they don't have it trying to turn a ring gear at the auto parts place...if they give you a hard time, take it home and use the hammer in earnest so they'll know it's bad :wink:
 
Wow, Thanks Guys. Unfortunately I wont be back home to work on my car until dec. 30th. Had to fly back east to see the family for the holidays. Once home I will first take the starter back, seeing how that seems to be the easiest fix. And if that fails I guess I'll just have to tackle the wiring. Thanks for all the help. Just for future reference, I will now call it the starter solenoid relay just so everyone knows :D .

Happy Holidays to you all,
Cory
 
Ok, so the starter tested fine, and the bendix returns back to the body of the starter. So now that it isnt the the starter that means it must be the wiring right? If so how do I go about testing it? Just start touching a multimeter to everything and see how it goes or what? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Cory
 
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