Ok I'm Lost...

[Stubby]

My observations on starter relay/sol.

When there is reduced current or voltage, the relay will pull in slower allowing it to stick on. The voltage/current should pull it in fast to prevent it from arcing internaly. Learn to listen to your car, it will often warn you of future problems.

Lower than normal voltage/current can be caused by several things. You said it had a burnt cable. A bad connection anywhere in the system will cause resistance which will result in heat. The best place to start is to clean all connections and inspect all cables well. It isn't always possible to visualy see a bad cable because of the way they are made.
Of course there is the battery, but you said it has been taken care of.
Just remember, a new battery isn't always fully charged.

You can remove the two small wires on the relay. Then turn the key to the run position. Then jump the small terminal on the relay closest to the battery cable, to the battery terminal. This should crank it, as soon as it starts, remove the jumper. I use a screwdriver to jump it. This should rule out the switch and wires. If the starter stays engaged it is the relay.

When working with a remote starter button or jumping the relay, MAKE SURE IT IS IN PARK, IF IT IS A STANDARD, PUT IT IN NUTRUEL AND BLOCK THE WHEELS. SAFETY FIRST.

You can also test the two wires that plug into the relay. When you turn the key to the run position, one of the wires should have voltage. On a stock ignition it will have 6 to 8 volts. The other wire will only have voltage when the key is turned all the way to the start position.

 

[PaulS]

Ok, so the starter tested fine, and the bendix returns back to the body of the starter. So now that it isnt the the starter that means it must be the wiring right? If so how do I go about testing it? Just start touching a multimeter to everything and see how it goes or what? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Cory

Using a volt meter (multimeter on volts) place the red lead on the Battery positive post (not the clamps) and the black lead on the negative post. While cranking (or trying to) you should read more than 9.5 volts. If it is less then you have a bad battery - replace it. Next put the red lead on the battery positive post and the negative lead on the battery cable clamp. while cranking the engine (or trying to) you should have less than 0.5 volts showing on the meter - more than this means the connection is bad clean and retry the test. If you get less than 0.5 volts then move the black lead to the the end of the cable at the relay (solenoid) and measure the voltage again. It should be less than 0.5 volts. if it is more then the cable is bad - replace it. if it is less than 0.5 volts then move the black lead to the large post the cable is connected to. test the volts again (always while cranking the engine or trying to) . It should be less than 0.5 volts. the next check is to move the black lead to the other large post on the relay and repeat test. then to the cable end connected to the relay, then to the cable end at the starter then the post on the starter. These tests should all show less than 0.5 volts. any component that is over 0.5 volts is bad or corroded. If it can be cleaned then clean it and if it is a wire then replace it.
From the negative side place the black lead on the negative post and the red lead on the clamp. Crank the engine (or attempt to) and check the voltage. As before it should always read 0.5 volts or less. for each successive test move the red lead to the next connection and retest. Keep going until you get to the engine block.
These tests are call "Voltage drop tests" and are used to identify any open, resistive, or shorted connections. They are the only reliable way to determine bad components without random replacement of components which is time consuming and expensive.

 

[Slipknotcc]

Wow, THANKS GUYS!

After careful inspection of all the wires I found that up near the firewall the two little wires that go to the starter solenoid/relay were melted together. After replacing those wires and rerouting a few wires away from potential heat sources the car started fine. Once again, thank you very much. I dont know how you guys remember all this stuff haha.

Thanks,

Cory

 

[ludwig]

Slipknotcc, the next time some guy has a starter problem, you are gonna post an answer. Then when you are done, you will think to yourself "Sonuvagun, I knew more than him. Cool." But in the end, you will be really glad you could help. And believe me, you will NEVER FORGET THAT SOLUTION.