OVERHEATING PROBLEMS

COMETGALAXIE

Well-known member
Ok so i have this 64 mercury comet with a small 202 motor (inline six) but its always over heating and it idles real high i had the carb rebuilt n it fixed it but now im having the same problem it idles real high the guy told me that the little thermastat choke wasent connect i connected it to the manifold so it sucks in hot air and it still idles real high wat else can be the problem i think its the gasket for the carb base it looked weird and not like the first gasket it had also do you think thats why it over heats so fast anthony...
 
I am having the same overheating problem but alittle different than yours. Yours---Go to the auto parts and get two new gaskets, 1 for the spacer bottom and 1 for the carb base. Put them on and try running again. If they are sucking air that could be the reason for high idle. On the back side of the carb there is your idle screw, try and turn it down some and see if that lowers your idle. Check your timing to make sure that your distributor didn't move. If it did put it on the 4 degree mark. It makes a better top end and slows the engine down some. Test and get back to me. Good luck. Champion2211
 
Sounds like you need to adjust the choke linkage or the choke spring. When it is idling fast, look at the idle speed adjusting screw on the carb. Is it on a stepped portion of a cam that is actuated by the choke linkage?
The cover under the choke housing can be loosened and and the spring can be rotated. There may also be a plastic barrel nut on the choke linkage under the choke housing that can be adjusted to adjust the position of the stepped cam that the idle screw rests on during high idle.
Doug
 
OK IMMA BUY THE GASKET SHOULD I PUT 2 OF THEM OR JUST 1 ON THE BASE ALSO IMMA TRY MESSING WITH THE IDLE SCREW AFTER I PUT THE NEW GASKETS SEE HOW IT RUNS AFTER THAT ALSO I STILL HAVE THE OLD GENERATOR WAT DO YOU GUYS THINK ABOUT A 1 WIRE ALTERNATOR FOR THE CAR
 
If you have some spray brake clean or spray carb cleaner with the engine running be careful as these are flamable, use or spray a small amount around the gasket or at the gasket and see if the idle changes. If it does then the gaskets are bad so you can try and replace each one then tighten them down to specs in the book or tight with 2 clicks of the elbow. Do not over tighten though, then try the engine running again. Hopefully that will help your problem. Use the spray sparingly with the engine cold. We don't want a fire. Have a fire bottle close by though. :twisted: You don't have to do the spray test but only change both gaskets then test. We are looking for a vacuum leak. Check all points on the carb and intake, hoses etc for leaks and tighten or replace. I believe you have a vacuum leak.
 
SO I SHOULD USE 2 GASKETS FOR THE BASE ILL TRY IT AND SEE IF IT STIL IDLES SO HIGH THANX EVERY ONE IMMA TRY IT AND GET BACK TO YOU GUYS ON THE RESULTS
 
I guess I answered the fast idle question. But re-reading your post and the title of it you mention overheating. I don't think the overheating is related to the fast idle.

You mention overheating but did not provide any symptons of your overheating. Are you truly over heating with boiling over, or is it a high temp reading on the stock gauges? Have you cleaned, flushed or replaced the radiator?

About the generator; the question has not relevance to your problems. If you need to upgrade the electrical due to new accessories that draw more power, I would say convert to the alternator. If you are running stock, I would keep the generator. I had a car that had been converted to an alternator, and I eventually went back to the generator and have had no problems other than dimmer headlights at idle.
Doug
 
yes the stock temp gauge like i drive in its cool for about 4 mins then after that it climes to hot i already flushed the radiator cleaned it put new radiator fluid this racing fluid that keeps the water cool n nothing u think it might be the gauge also theres a hose that runs from the water pump to the carb base does it go any were or like is it useful if not can i just add a after marker temp gauge to read accurate readings
 
Ok guys I have installed a new aluminum radiator along with a elect. fan and the difference is awsome. I had the high temp next to boiling but never got that hot. 220 deg. but I think I have the overheating problem solved. I am going to work on the temp gauge next as this swap today took all day and really didn't have time to drive it. This test was at idle with the ac on and it did really good. Thanks all for your help.
 
This is the ebay seller I got mine from:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/All-Alum ... QQtcZphoto

He is selling a Silla all aluminum radiator that mounts in a stock setup. He has about a half dozen listings for these at different prices but I think they're all the same model number (0251-2AA I think it's the most common one you find for a 200ci/3.3l on ebay)

http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk27 ... 01160b.jpg

This fit my '66 mustang, but as you can see on the receipt it's actually listed for a 60-64 comet. I have recommeded this to a couple people and at least one ordered this direct form Silla, but the price wasn't any better. I've been very happy with mine.

This one is even cheaper same model no. :?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-FOR ... QQtcZphoto
classic price discrimination??
 
I have an outlet that I got my aluminum radiator from and it was real cheap. $139.00 PM me and give me the information about your car. I have a new std radiator for a Falcon 6 cyl here also for $100 plus frt. I tried to use it first but changed to the aluminum.
 
OK SO I CHANGED THE GASKET ON THE BASE IT DIDNT REALLY DO NOTHING I STARTED MESSING WITH THE CHOKE THOSE LIKE I UNSCREWED THE CAP AND TWISTED IT I CALMED THE IDLE DOWN IT DOSENT IDLE AS LOUD AS IT USE TO ITS REAL QUITE NOW I STILL NEED TO DRIVE IT AROUND AND TEST IT SEE HOW IT GOES FROM THERE SHOULD I JUST TAKE IT TO THE CARB SHOP HAVE THEM SEE WUTS UP WITH THE CARB OR Wat do you guys think
 
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