Overheating

[Anonymous]

I have the same problem. My 65 has a 69 engine 200 ci bored 030 over with a 1100 carb, manual choke. I am running a 180 deg. thermostat with the timing set at 6 deg. adv. Just where the book calls for, with a 3 on the tree. I installed AC on this with a hang down unit. After running for about 5 miles and turn off the freeway and get in traffic it wants to quit. I cant get my temp gauge to work along with the gas gauge at the same time so I put a temp gauge in the radiator cap. I have tried to belch the engine by putting it on stands and running until hot but so far that doesnt seem to help it. I trippled the gaskets both top and bottom of the spacer plate but didn't help yet. My next is to make an aluminum plate wide enough to cover the exhaust for the inside next to the valve cover and coming out towards the fender to help shield it some from heat rising. I already have the water going through the spacer plate with about 50/50 antifreeze. At first it seems to run ok so that is or seems ok but I am going to try and vent the fuel cap also. Any other ideas out there. In need of help. I want to drive this but am stuck on short runs now. Thanks champion2211 :idea:

 

[TucsonHooligan]

Flush the system like crazy! Mine was filled with rust and calcium build up. You can get radiator flush anywhere for about 3 bucks. I let it run with the flush in the system under regular driving for a couple days, then opened it up and put a garden hose in the top with the drain open and the engine on, let it run till the water ran out clear. Ran flush through it twice and a rust inhibitor afterwards, helped a lot. Also they have additives like water wet, or some such name, that can help lower the temp by about 20 degrees. I'm not sure if its advisable, but you could change the ratio from 50/50 to something like 75/25. The more water in the system, the better it cools, since antifreeze retains heat. I live in AZ, so freezing is not really a problem, and I run mine with less. Also use a 160 degree thermo in the summer to help out, since its 110+ daily. Also, its costly, but switch to an aluminum radiator. I plan on doin it when I swap engines. They're under 200 bucks and a two row aluminum supposedly cools about 30 percent better than a stock 3 row. Thats all I can think of. Good luck!

 

[TucsonHooligan]

Wait, you're talking about carb problems here? I was confused. You can try all that stuff I recommended above, but I've also heard of people completely bypassing the spacer plate and not running anything through it. Try that and see if it helps.

 

[Eric Rose]

I paid about $200 for my aluminum radiator and with a 180 thermostat and I went from running way too hot to actually running too cool, especially now that its colder out. I'm thinking a 190 thermostat and adding a greater percentage of antifreeze to my system will probably get it right though.

 

[66 Fastback]

What is your temp running, assuming you have the gauge in the radiator cap?
Is the radiator new?
Doug

 

[69.5Mav]

Do not flush the system with a garden hose and the engine running. Calcium will build up in your radiator and block it, ask me how I know.

If you want to flush out the block disconnect the lower and upper radiator hoses from the radiator and remove the thermostat and replace the thermostat housing. Then run the garden hose in through either the upper or lower radiator hose to the block and the water will come out the other hose. Let the water completely drain from the block. Reconnect the hoses and fill with distilled water and run the engine to circulate the water for a bit, not till it is hot, and drain again. Do this a few times then replace the thermostat, use a new one, and add one gallon of 50/50 mix and fill with distilled water to completely fill the system. You can use this method with any commercial flush on the market. Water wetter also works to remove engin heat.

 

[69.5Mav]

Also neither of my Mavericks has a carb heating plate and have run just fine in CA, IL and AZ. Some one on this board reported that he saw a marked reduction in ebgine temp by rerouting the heater hoses away from the exhaust manifold. This is much easier without the carb heater plate. You might try wrapping the heater hose in header insulation to keep out manifold heat.

 

[Anonymous]

Let me try and answer some of the questions first. All the parts on this system is new or rebuilt. The engine was baked, here in texas they don't put in acid bath anymore. I have a 3 row new std radiator. All hoses, etc all new. All this without the AC turned on. New water pump and belts. The temp on the radiator gauge was showing 210 running and after turning it off it went to 240. I tried first not having fluid going through the spacer plate but later hooked it up to make sure that to see if it brought down the temp. No difference. I spared no expense doing this engine and expected more than what I have gotten. I made the spacer plate out of aluminum and mounted it on the intake under the spacer plate. All runs great so when I drive it tomorrow will tell you what I found. Aluminum radiator sounds good. Thinking about adding an elect. fan between the AC condenser and radiator to help some also. How high does the front of the car need to be when belching the engine? This is where I am at so please talk to me. Thanks for the answers. champion2211

 

[Anonymous]

I have got some parts to try on this engine. all aluminum radiator, cooling fan electric with an adjustable sensor. Gotta get them put on tomorrow somehow. Will get back after all thats done. Thanks

 

[66 Fastback]

I am not sure what the hang down A/C unit is, but I suspect it is a rotary type compressor and not the old 2 cyl York or Tecumshe type. My car want to die with the A/C on etc too. I have the old 2 cyl York compressor. I end up having to raise my idle during A/C season.

You might also try running a little more ignition timing up to 10 or 12 deg. It will help the engine run a bit cooler at idle. You'll have to reset the idle speed after advancing the timing. Also set the idle speed with the A/C on since they can pull the engine down quite a bit. (also have it in drive if it is an auto transmission)

Do you have a 4 blade fan? Cars with an A/C system ran a 5 blade fan. I added the A/C to my car and changed out the fan at that time.
Doug

 

[Anonymous]

Doug: My AC system is the new type and the evaporator hangs down from the bottom of the dash with the hoses going through the firewall. You have the system from the 60s and this system is from the 2000s. The compressor doesn't change the idle too much at all. I might have to increase my idle 100 rpms. This new system is mounted on the opposite side of the engine with the alternator on top of it like one system. The other side is perfectly clean so you can get to the distributor very easily. I have my timing set at 4 deg. and it lowers the engine speed a couple hundred rpms maybe, as I don't have a tach to tell but it lets the engine run cooler with better top end to run cooler then also. I also have gotten an aluminum radiator $139.00 and a 14" elect. fan that I have to install between the condenser and radiator to push inwards for cooling. I am running a 6 blade fan for ac purposes but my engine is running way too hot without the ac on. If this doesn't fix the heating problem I might be in the market for a V8 as I have spent way too much just trying to fix this problem. This engine runs perfectly and is a 69 front to back with a sincro 3 speed transmission. I got some heat wrap for the exhaust if needed to help keep the carb alittle cooler also. Like I said I have done mostly everything I can think of as well as others also. It all makes sense but unless there is a blockage in the engine somewhere that I cant find well I will cross that when I get to it. Thanks for the reply. If you can think of anything else please pm me. champion2211 I have also tried to use the new temp gauges from the auto parts stores and they are all off more than 20 deg. so that will not work either. I did try all types of gauges and all prices.

 

[kirkallen143]

Champ, raise that timing up. Four degrees BTDC is too low and could make the engine run hot. Get it up to 10 - 12 degrees BTDC and see what it does. It is also recommended to varify TDC if you have an old harmonic balancer that has slipped. Keep us posted.

Kirk

 

[Anonymous]

When I rebuilt this motor and set the timing chain with TDC where it was supposed to be and slipped the harmonic balancer on it was showing in all respects right on 0. The #1 was on top and it was showing 0 so that was telling me when I set the timing at 6 deg then it was correct. I drove it and the power seems ok but a little sluggish. I will try and put it up to 10 and see where it all goes. At 4 the temp was still running at 205 and to me thats too hot. The elect fan was on and it was keeping it at the 205. Will do more testing and let you know.

 

[Eric Rose]

I just got my cooling system working the way I want yesterday... no more running too cool.

I have:

1.) Silla Cooling aluminum radiator (they are easy to find on E-Bay)
2.) 195 degree thermostat with a tiny hole drilled near the top
3.) 1 gallon "Valucraft" green antifreeze
4.) 1 bottle Redline Water Wetter
5.) one heater hose routed between intake log and valve cover, the other down the driver's side of the motor.
6.) filled with distilled water ($0.99 a gallon at the grocery store)
7.) stock '62 Falcon 4 blade fan
8.) aluminum "made in Japan" water pump
9.) "Sunpro" brand 2" temperature gauge... part of the cheapest 3 gauge set at the parts store. Tested spot on when I put the probe in a pot of boiling water.

It see-saws between 185 and 195 but didn't go over 200. The heater blows nice and hot. Drilling the hole in the thermostat allows air to escape from the system while you fill it so less "burping" is needed. Haven't tried it in stop and go traffic yet but we did idle it in the driveway for about 1/2 hour and it stayed cool so I'm thinking it will be OK.

 

[Anonymous]

I have the aluminum radiator in mine also. I put an elect fan between the condenser and radiator. I finally got my gauges in the dash to work. I have a oil press. gauge hanging down from the dash. I have a aftermarket AC unit installed and cools great with the 134 coolant. I have had trouble with the gauges that you buy from the parts stores by not being correct and most all were atleast 20+ deg. off or too high. I am going by the gauge in the dash now and as long as it doesn't get hot I am fine. I do have the 6 blade AC fan as a extra should I need it in the future so I will just go with that. I really didn't think the engines run that hot but with a 180 thermostat I had assumed it ran cooler than it actually does. You sound like you have the tiger by the tail now, congrats. Mine is showing improvement now also. Good luck. champion2211

 

[ludwig]

180* t-stat only means it OPENS at that temp. After that, it is subject to loading and ambient temps.