Pertronix/Timing

stock63futura

Well-known member
Hello,
Over the weekend I installed a Pertronix ignition in my 63futura, after which I went to adjust the timing. I noticed that my timing marks dont sit anywhere closer to where they are suppose to. They are so far off in fact that I can even see them unless I go look from the other side. If I adjust the dist. to make the timing marks visible the engine cuts out. I am at a loss.
Any help would be appreciated.

-Brian
 
:) Hi 63Futura.Sounds like the timing ring on the balancer has slipped.The cure?Replace the harmonic balancer.Thats the only cure.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
For now, you can find the existing TDC and re-mark the outer ring with a white sharpie. This will work fine until the ring slips again. The permanent solution is to get a new harmonic balancer.
 
hang on, before assumptions that something is broken... just make sure your doing it right... I've learned the hard way and just want to help.

is the vacuum unplugged from the distributor and pluged so you don't get a leak? when the vacuum is added it will change the timing. it's supposed to 'advance' the timing. depending on year, rpm can affect timing. what's your idle rpm?

time it to 8-10* with the vacuum unplugged and idle at 900rpm

when you plug in the vacuum it will kick up the idle again, simply adjust the idle back down.
 
Okay, I didnt know that. So, I unplug the vacuum line from the distributor, do I plug the line or the dist. itself? I am not sure what rpm it is idling at, I really dont know how to tell.
After I unplug and plug, do I just set the timing like I would normally?

Thanks for your help!!

-Brian
 
Howdy Back Brian and All:

You've got some good advice already. Sounds like you're on the right track now. Once vacuum is unplugged from the carb and the carb line plugged, proceed with setting the initial advance.

FYI- the initial advance settings are different depending on which transmission your car has. I don't recall right off for a '63 170 engines. AKT you can safely add an additional 3 to 5 degrees of initial for a little more power and mileage. What is the elevation at your locale?

On the engine idle speed you would need a tachometer to get accurate rpm readings. However, it is not necessary. Just set the idle as low as possible. If the car has a manual trans set it so that the engine will not die at a stop light or during cold start warm up. Note- cold start warm up will depend on your choke and fast idle settings. If the car has an auto trans, set the idle with the trans in drive while someone is stepping on the brake. Again the choke and fast idle circuit are a separate issue.

Hope that helps and keep us posted.

Adios, David
 
the vacuum line going to the distributor needs to be disconnected from the distributor and the line plugged so it's not leaking air.
then set your timing to 8-10*
check your vacuum with a gage if you have one, should be around 20 vacuum (give or take) vacuum checking is optional but highly recommended
once timing is set, clamp down the distributor and double check it didn't move. once tight...
then you reconnect the vacuum line, the idle will go higher. this is normal.
on the carb, you have 3 settings.
setting 1 - idle gas/fuel mixture
setting 2 - idle rpm setting
setting 3 - choke

1st work on the idle gas mixture.
A- lower the rpm to a closer to natural range, guestimate 900-1200rpm.
B- adjust the fuel screw for the highest rpm, once found, give 1/4 turn out, that is ideal. some people would then screw it all the way in and count how many turns out. would be good for future reference.
2nd set your idle rpm
go ahead and set this to desired running range. idealy 750-850 for an auto 650-750 for manual all in neutral.
3rd choke
you'll have to wait for the engine to cool completely down. and it's best if you do this after you get a good runnign tune
once cool to the touch, adjust the choke so that it is 'almost' closed, say 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch open.

and that would be a great tune. sure there are other things/ways you can tune your car, and there are factors to think about. it's not perfect but it will be smooth for a stock engine with SCV carb and LOM.
 
I live in the LA area, San Fernando Valley actually, so my elevation is probably pretty close to "level"/ 0'.
I'm not sure if I have the SCV and LOM, I checked both the dist. and carb, the carb doesnt seem to have a SCV, and when I looked up the serial # on the dist. it said it was from a 68 mustang.
Like I said, I'm not sure. What would be a sure fire way to check?

Thanks!
-Brian
 
take pictures?? of the pasanger side of the carb.
and pictures of under the cap to the distributor.

I could find picts to help illistrate, or someone else could but it might a 'bit' different than yours...

10-14* timing for sea level areas I would think is safe for initial timing. if you hear any 'ping' (sounds like bb's fly'n around in the pistons) retard the timing 2* and try again. best place to listen is while climbing a hill in final gear floored @ 50mph ish...
 
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