Pictures of progress

Nice work. Did you make the J-pipe yourself? Like the color choice on the engine also, must be something about the area because mine is gold also ;) I'm over in Augusta so I'm not too far away. Maybe when I finish my head swap I can take a test drive your way. Ever get over to Ft Jackson? We do work there occasionally. Take care!

Ron
 
It is a big 16G, so it should spool pretty quick on a motor this size, which is good since we have no RPM capability. Well, it was a ford blue motor, but my girl and I "share" the car and she is anti- ford blue, so it's bronze. Yes, I made the J-pipe and flange for the turbo, last night I fab'd a support rod linking the block to the turbine flange for additional support. I painted my manifold and downpipe last night, and tonight I made the downpipe to turbo flange. I don't get over to fort jackson, I have since moved from dowtown Columbia to the Lexington side of I-20, definetely not too far from Augusta!

Just a few details: I will be running the Motorcraft 2100 1.08 venturi on an adapter. I already had it installed, and planned to direct mount the setup, but after measuring the sq. area of the venturi's vs. manifold bore, I figured why bother if I am cramming air into the motor. I will also be making my own carb hat, since I cannot find one available that will fit within my minimal hood clearance. I ordered my mandrel bends Thursday from mandrel-bends.com, good site and great prices! Going 3" 16 ga. throughout aluminized steel. Tomorrow morning I will knock out my compressor outlet flange (my friend did the machining, I just need to drill the mounting pattern and smooth the flange shape out). I am also sorting out my oil feed and return. I am a little nervous about punching the pan. Anyone have any locational advice or procedural tips? I'll post some more pics soon, I don't have my sinc. cable handy. Thanks!
 
Thank you. It is a '77 converted to a '72. I should have some more pictures soon. Update- Compressor outlet flange done, carb ports and choke lingake hole epoxied, carb hat all cut out, but still need to weld together, oil return fitting ground and pan pre-punched for fitting. Down pipe flange started, need to figure out how to clearance a 3" pipe in the limited area of the flange and clear the wastegate and hardware. I hope to have the oil feed and return done tonight, as well as the carb hat, sans paint.
 
Looks very good! Nice job!

For the oil return, there's a couple of ways. I personally like to weld a steel AN-10 fitting directly to the oil pan. Then drill out the hole. This is of course when the pan isn't on the motor.
You could still do the same thing except for the drilling part. Just weld the fitting, then use a sharpened round chisel to poke a hole. Then just make the hole larger.
Mount the return as high up on the pan as possible. Make sure to mount it between two of the pan bolts!!!

The other method is to poke a hole in the pan, then tap it. Use a bunch of grease on the tap to help catch the metal shavings. Then of course change the oil.

Keep us posted on the progress!
Later,
Will
 
Sweet, next time your in Charlotte email me I would love to see it in person. Lets go to a "show and Shine": we will wow them all.
 
Oil feed and return done, carb hat done, down pipe done, exhaust is done for now, will extend it over the axle once I tune all the bugs out of the setup. My oil return is leaking somehow. I welded a 45 degree elbow with 5/8" orifice onto the pan, and it extends into the pan about 3/16", but somehow leaking. It was hard to reach with the welding gun, and I only had it set up for flux core wire. I have since switch to straight steel with shielding gas. I need to fix the leak, but other than that, the work so far is good. Still to do:
1. fix oil return leak and plan to minimize hardware for oil connections
2. Modify dizzy timing
3. Modify regulator to boost reference
4. Install EFI fuel pump with return line (what size return guys, never done this before?)
5. Install wastegate
6. Install BOV
7. Fab and install remaining charge pipe between IC and carb hat
8. Power to wideband
9. Replace cheap couplers and worm gear clamps with reinforced silicon and t-clamps

My girlfiend and I drove it to the local car show, babied it there, no boost. We got a lot of interested onlookers, compliments, and input, so we are really enjoying this project!
 
Looks great.

Ill have a similar thread here pretty soon.

Im not too familiar with that particular turbo, what is the hp rating for it, and what kind of boost pressure you looking to run?
 
From the research I did, this is from a Mitsubishi Evolution. These cars are rated at 276 hp from the factory, so I can only guess maybe 350 hp max at the flywheel, so I will be grateful for 250 wheel horsepower. I plan to start very low, around 5 psi, jump to 7ish, and eventually 10 on the stock internals and low compression with intercooler and water injection. The cool this is this think builds boost just over 2000 rpm.
 
Update: BOV installed, charge pipe installed, new wastegate bracket built, but still need to paint, and dizzy mechanical advance slot welded to 8 degrees and static set at 15 BTDC, but likely to go to 10 after I make sure she won't ping. Wiring for the wideband ran too, but still need to tap into power and ground. Still need to install new fuel pump, return line, and regulator hopefully in the coming evenings.
 
Update: Test drove last night with the temporary boost referenced mechanical pump. No leaks, pinging or blown couplings, but was lean at idle and cruise, so I was reluctant to stay in boost more than two or three seconds. I also let off because my wastegate cracks open a 6.5 psi and fully opens at 10, and I only want to test with 5, not sure if this means I have a 7 psi or 10 psi OEM wastegate, either way it's too much for now. I will check my fuel pressure is increasing with increased boost pressure, and then dive into jetting or PVCR resizing if it is even possible on an Autolite. The first experience was good though, nothing broke and it pulled pretty good even if I let out soon after it built boost. New pictures on photobucket, see link in original post. Still plan to upgrade the fuel system, add water injection, and weld my charge pipes up to eliminate half my couplings and replace the remaining with silicon reinforced versions with T bolt clamps. Thanks!
 
OK, I verified my fuel pressure is rising 1:1 with boost, and turned my idle mixture screws another 1/2 turn ccw which eliminated the lean at idle condition, but still have the lean at cruise. I removed my inline fuel filter just to remove a possible restriction for testing, no change. I ran NA by removing the charge pipe from the carb hat, it still ran lean, and finally, to verify it was not the extreme low profile carb hat interfering with my booster signal, I ran no hat and it still resulting in a lean at cruise under vacuum. She does transition to the rich side, 11s and 12s, but slower than I would like, I guess it is because it is so far to a lean condition (high 15s to 17s), it takes more time to transition to a safe mixture.

I will check my bowl for debris and proper needle and float operation, next up is likely a re-jet. I am surprised if this is the case, why would a carburetor originally equipped for a non smog '71 302 need bigger jets on a 250, poor fuel distribution/mix in the intake? I also plan to add a spring to my wastegate arm to open sooner until testing is complete and water injection is installed.
 
Boost does funny things. Are you in boost during cruise? Id bump up your jet sizes a couple and get that cruise ratio in the 15's, As long as its running ok at cruise, 17's isnt bad. I had my megasquirted 306 in my 91 stang running in the 17's at cruise and it ran fine, got great mpg too. As soon as you tip in the throttle, it should richen up via the PV circuit. Just make sure your about 11.5-12:1 in boost and youll be fine.
 
Fellas, I'm still a learning fool with engines so please bear with me. No boost and why would you have to richen up a carb that was used on a 302. Longer stroke and larger cylinder bores maybe? The 302 had two more cylinders and maybe a shorter stroke? I'm asking guys, because I don't know. I've been messing with my 300 for years and can't figure out why it needs so much fuel. I'm thinking an inline six just wasn't the most fuel efficient beast on the block. Capable of making a butt load of torque (as are all the Ford sixes I've had) but a thirsty animal. It sure sounds like that Mav is gonna rock though! Looking forward to seeing it someday.

Ron
 
Yeah, under vacuum while at cruise. I took the car for a long drive today to my parents for Thanksgiving, and the car ran awful, and this was not trying to boost, just cruise. The car after a while at idle or just above will turn rich, 10.0 and then stall the motor. This flooding causes the fuel to pour out of every gasket and fit possible below the throttle plates. Fuel pressure is staying steady at about 6.5 psi. I will verify the float and needle and seat, but after that I don't know. I tweaked with the idle RPM and idle mixture screws, but the mixture screws functionality was not as effective as before like they are intended. I don't think this is so much a turbo set up issue, but more a carb general problem. I think my pump is fine, but mayybe I will regulate the fuel pressure down a few psi, sounds like rebuild carb time is in order and check all my ports are sealed up. I did buy my pump for the water injection last night, but need to find cheap nozzle selections.
 
Sounds like a running rich issue.

Sometimes widebands will read lean even though you are pig rich, has to do with the unburned fuel reading as oxygen or something like that, either way, Ive had it happen and it can fool you.

Take a look at your plugs, and if you are running rich you should be able to tell. Then lean it out till it stable.

There is no reason it should read lean and then go to 10:1 if its not running rich and fooling the wideband.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

euanr1986
All Small Six Cylinder head adapter plate
Replies
18
Views
571
awasson
awasson
JoeCrozier
All Small Six Guide to electrical?
2
Replies
33
Views
600
pmuller9
P
A
What engine is this?
Replies
7
Views
409
Toph1821
T
63 Sprint
  • Sticky
Vintage Inlines Cylinder Head Update- October 2024
2 3
Replies
42
Views
6K
bmbm40
B
L
All Small Six 1967 Mustang - ACP two row radiator w/factory air
Replies
16
Views
2K
wme013
W
Back
Top