Possible: Starter to have enough Al2O3 to deny cranking?

[Asa]

So, finally got Susie down to Tampa with me. Prepping her to get her running again, I'm reminded how much I hate electrical issues.

12.75V at the battery, counter-monkey at AutoZoo tested the battery at 670CCA today (rated at 700CCA, two days ago I had it checked at 521CCA, trickle charged it for the past two days to bring it up).

12.75V at the battery, at the solenoid, at the starter.

Try to check the resistance between negative terminal of the battery and the body of the starter, get an out of limits reading. I'm thinking I need to take the starter off and clean everything (aluminum oxide over everything), and possibly clean the plate between the transmission and the flywheel (it's painted)

 

[bubba22349]

Good idea cleaning the starter no need to worry about the block plate just add another ground from body to one of the starter bolts. Battery might be getting weak should be 13.4 to 13.8 volts if engine is new and tight it might not cut it, if it's a used engine that's looser might still work.

 

[Invectivus]

i've actually heard of intermittent starting issues without a solid block-to-bulkhead ground. if you run the same test to the block i bet you'll get the same thing and will need to run a ground wite from the block to the firewall.

 

[Asa]

Most definitely an old engine

 

[Asa]

i've actually heard of intermittent starting issues without a solid block-to-bulkhead ground. if you run the same test to the block i bet you'll get the same thing and will need to run a ground wite from the block to the firewall.

Actually, it probably would be a good idea to re-route the ground cable system.

Currently it goes from the battery to the block, and the starter is grounded out at the block. I'll re-route it from battery to a bolt directly on the starter, then from the starter to the frame.

 

[Lazy JW]

There is no such thing as too much ground

 

[bubba22349]

X2 on the grounds,to many will be just right! The battery to the block is great just take it apart and clean it good, than add the extra grounds from engine to body & frame.

 

[Asa]

Bubba, I prefer from the negative straight to the starter bolt, and from there ground from the other starter bolt directly to the frame. Allows full battery voltage to get to the starter

SR recommended that for me years ago for my truck, I believe that has helped the truck's battery last longer than normal in this Florida heat.


Anywho, she's cranking now, but no fire. Time for a new thread.
Thanks guys

 

[JackFish]

Maybe the starter is just seized up from sitting so long.
Give it a whack.

 

[Asa]

Pulled it and had it checked. Bearings definitely sounded bad, but It was servicable.

She's turning over now, was a bad ground.