Pressure Wash Crankcase

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
So I've got the motor(200 C.I.D.) out to rework the heads, I'm not doing the bottom end. I have oil pan off, and there is alot of sludge in there.
I am too lazy to scrub it all out.

So this may be stupid.

What if I got a 2000 psi pressure washer and cleaned it all out with water(cringe). and then immeadiatly took my siphon feed spray gun and sprayed seafoam all in there to displace the water.

I know that seems crazy but what you think it might hurt?
 
There is a risk you will drive a crusty piece into somewhere it obstructs the passage of oil. Probably better to use a good quality oil and change it out to schedule.

Either way, sounds like a good time to confirm the rear main oil seal's condition and change if necessary.
 
Anon, if you have that much sludge in the engine, you really need to rebuild the engine.

If the crankcase is sludged the oil rings are probably stuck in the pistons.

Bite the bullet, overhaul it or just put the sludge bucket back together.

From past experience a sludged engine is junk.

To prevent that & i'm not blaming you, all that has to be done is just change the oil on a regular interval. William
 
turbo_fairlane_200":k8mkthvx said:
a couple cans of carb cleaner would work a bit.

Only if you have a LOT more than a couple cans!!


wsa111":k8mkthvx said:
Anon, if you have that much sludge in the engine, you really need to rebuild the engine.

He's right.....AT THE VERY LEAST - - take it apart and LOOK THINGS OVER. You would rather catch a surprise now than after it is in the car, Right??
 
IMHO you should do as much as possible or as little as possible. If you disturb the crud you should remove it.

I have seen engines with lots of crud and very little wear and I have seen engines that were very clean and worn completely out. I think one of the main things that sludges up engines is short trips without letting the engine get completely up to temp. When you crank an engine moisture condensates inside the crankcase and exhaust system and if you don't build enough heat to evaporate the moisture then it will sludge up the engine and rust out the exhaust.
 
Stubby":2cwlljxf said:
I have seen engines with lots of crud and very little wear and I have seen engines that were very clean and worn completely out.

Very true. Never use engine flush on engines like that, either. It plugs the oil pick up screen and/or takes out the oil pump.

Better to let the natural engine oil detergents do their job at their own pace.
 
wsa111":32nobbr2 said:
To prevent that & i'm not blaming you, all that has to be done is just change the oil on a regular interval. William

On the subject of sludge. If you take an engine that is sludged (and was not taken care of) and start regular oil changes and such. Can you eventually work some of the sludge out with the regular oil changes? Or is it a case that once it's there, it's there?
 
Yes, up to a point. Modern oils will dislodge a fair amount of oil-soluble crud. If any of it's really baked or burned on, you need a far more aggressive cleaner.

Paint stripper works, caustic soda works, oven cleaner works, Paslode nail gun cleaning spray works.
 
addo":lxb0o9ym said:
Yes, up to a point. Modern oils will dislodge a fair amount of oil-soluble crud. If any of it's really baked or burned on, you need a far more aggressive cleaner.

Paint stripper works, caustic soda works, oven cleaner works, Paslode nail gun cleaning spray works.

I was thinking of solutions that didn't involve cracking the block.
 
The old trick is run a quart of diesel fuel in the crankcase for 5 minutes (max) when cold then drain the oil before you do an oil change.
 
Sludge... I took of the timing chain cover and you can see for yourself..
Picture324.jpg

You guys talked about putting in some diesel and then run it? So is it possible to get most of that gunk out of the engine?
What are the dangers to an older engine?
Picture328.jpg
 
Other than looking bad, the gunk that's there won't do any harm. That said, if the engine is out anyway, I would pull the main and rod caps off the check/replace bearings, and since the heads off...pull the pistons and throw a set of rings in it. I've done this to a bunch of "old beater" engines and never had a problem. If the bearings and rings are stock size but worn, throw in a set of standard size new ones. No it's not a "rebuild" it's just better than when you pulled it apart. The crank and cyl's are still worn, but if it was running fine when you pulled it apart, all the new bearings and rings can do is tighten it up a bit.
I would scrape off what you can, engine shampoo then pressure wash the rest, spray it down with sea foam or wd40 and throw the new bearings/rings in. Then, do an oil change after the first 30-60min of running time.

Alternative, put the pan back on and deny seeing anything....but it might have to come out again at a later date.(earlier than if you did something while it was pulled anyway)
:wink:
 
I say you need a timing chain in there too....

the diesel trick works good as does a pint or so of ATF in there for a day or so of driving. but since you have it all apart I would start with the diesel or kerosene (doesn't stink as bad) and a good stick nylon brush and start scrubbing things down. simpley splashing solvent up on the gunk a few times over a course of a weekend will help to soften it up some.

I agree if the motor is out and that far apart I would just cut the ridge, break the glaze on the bores and do a "slop job" rebuild on it. will let you clean the block REAL good and then you can toss a fresh coat of paint on it too.
 
To answer Soldmy66's question, the diesel fuel I talked about was an idea from Linc's 200, now I don't know if that works or how it is supposed to be used.
And turbo_fairlane_200, well I knew that the chain was passed due its life to say the least! it left marks inside the timing chain cover!
Well goinbroke, I haven't removed the engine from the car yet and I wasn't planning on taking it out also the head is still in place.. horrible dilemma I'm facing because I am doing the body first and only have only a limited funds for the car...
Right now I finished the left fenderwell with the whole suspension overhauled and painted, you can see the progress here, http://community.webshots.com/user/GGGRRinder
I am planning on painting the inside of the engine compartment + the engine, if I just paint engine compartment and not the engine... that would just look like crap! So I am just biting the bullet and changing the timing chain and sprockets and clean out the pan and paint the engine and compartment, and changing the valve seals and that would be all for now. I want to overhaul the engine but right now it's just not going to happen. I can do what goinbroke said (close it up and call it good lol) but that's just not me lol
I did remove the oil pan... the previous owner told me that they overhauled the engine in 1972 (damn that was the year when I was born! does that make me old or young? hmmm..) and 33 years later it looks pretty disgusting!
Picture334.jpg

Picture336.jpg
 
Take it to an engine shop and pay to get it stripped.
That's a nothing job, take 1/2 hour, or less.

well as I explained the engine is still in the car, also I have to get an engine hoist, engine stand and if I would do that then I would of course change the clutch and the list goes on and on and on but it just has to wait.
 
Griny":ghwjqyeb said:
Take it to an engine shop and pay to get it stripped.
That's a nothing job, take 1/2 hour, or less.

well as I explained the engine is still in the car, also I have to get an engine hoist, engine stand and if I would do that then I would of course change the clutch and the list goes on and on and on but it just has to wait.
Oh, I thought you said you removed the pan :oops:
 
Soldmy66":d0npdpib said:
By "diesel" you mean diesel engine oil (being more detergent in nature than conventional engine oil), correct?

No, diesel fuel.

Washes the engine out (a little) Just gets some of it out.

Do a flush with 1 quart of diesel added to the oil every 2000 miles right before you get ready to drain the old oil.
 
Back
Top