Crustang to Mustang
Well-known member
I have about a 1/2 in. of clearance between my stock 250ci and my '66 Mustang hood. Solutions?
All Small Six "Raisin' Hood"
- Thread starter Crustang to Mustang
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
I moved the frame side motor mount arms out and down 3/8" for clearance in my '63 Falcon. Gained at least 1" of drop.
There is 'suppose' to be motor mounts that let the motor sit lower, but no one has ever seemed to be able to say exactly what mounts. I did this when TFFN site was still running, guy sworn up and down that there was OEM mounts for it, but NEVER could say what ones.
You could file the motor mount holes to the block down to get a little space, but not much.
There is 'suppose' to be motor mounts that let the motor sit lower, but no one has ever seemed to be able to say exactly what mounts. I did this when TFFN site was still running, guy sworn up and down that there was OEM mounts for it, but NEVER could say what ones.
You could file the motor mount holes to the block down to get a little space, but not much.
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Between the air cleaner and the hood?
200ci to 250ci Swap Notes
Not sure if you have seen this already. It has to do with later model air cleaner and Maverick motor mounts.
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
200ci to 250ci Swap Notes
The 250 is in the same family as the 200, making the swap relatively straightforward. Nevertheless, there are some items which need to be addressed in order to make the switch. These comments apply to the swap performed on a 1966 Mustang. Later...
fordsix.com
I guess it's Maverick 250 mounts. I was never able to get an answer for that. Takes motor and frame mounts, and you would have to drill new holes for the frame mounts.
At that point, you could stick with the frame mounts you already have on there, and move them to any height you want. I went 3/8" out and down to stay close to the internal anti-crush metal that is inside the mount holes on the frame.
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
Watch out for your steering center link, going 3/8" out and down gets the oil pan really close to the center link.
I flipped mine, half way reverse reamed the steering box pitman arm, and the passenger side idler arm.
I flipped mine, half way reverse reamed the steering box pitman arm, and the passenger side idler arm.
Crustang to Mustang
Well-known member
Yes
Crustang to Mustang
Well-known member
I wanted to keep the info organized for other people in the same boat.
post#2 I've tried w/a bit ofa change. Of the 6 or 8 "60's/70s low hood fords" work-a-rounds this is 1 that put a hi deck 4.1 from '69 stang into my 1st gen bronk (or "EB"). The 'late Mav" mounts'n towers (we really should have some specificity to names/pick any, could even pick nother for the rubber part - isolator?) R riveted together @ a 'hinge'. Most towers (chassy mount) are not presently connected to the mounts (engine part). These specimens R not symmetrical (duplicates ina mirror) but one longer than other (w/a lill different 'lean' to it too I hesitantly recall). What is typically done (not tried w/the bronk/250 mod @ Chateau Chad) is the bolt holes R 'egged out' (elongated) 'down' so as to drop the motor (IDK, possibly up to) three quarters toa 1/2 inch. Lemmie C how many more (OP requested more from me) I can name. Some work for us all, some only 4 others:
1) "late Mav mounts";
2) hood scoop;
3) body lift, and yes;
4) suspension lift;
5) remote a.c. housing (I use a carbhat/4ft snorkel to grill)
6) 'low rise carb' (RBS in my case, 1100 in others);
EDIT: (add 1 I left out) '2v direct mount' (ie mill log for drop in carb). See T. Archive for 1 that seems to "lower hood" even more?...
7) custom drill chassy &/or custom make mounts (oem - nother off model/make/etc);
8) "hard mount' motor (no isolator &/or tower) I do not recommend.
I seem to B 4getting 1 or 2 (as I dont usually list what i have today in 7 & 8. See my/our other threads on this (use Search function). Not sure our 'main man' Perry has made a stickie, he's quite busy as it is. I've sorta been "keeper of the low hood solutions" since '09. Try 1, try 'em all (in a single application). I tried the 5 in red altho no mods to #1, it was the only 250 mounts'n towers any 1 /or/ company mailed me. I used several only 2 really helping plus notched the frame cross member (it's my bosses signature when doing most his swaps. If I was in while he sabotaged my rig I would have objected. It was Not needed. It's is not good ina 4WD (less grnd clearance).
When I got my rig ('82) it had 2 dip sticks (ie a falcon 170, bronk oil pan) w/an ac housing hitting the hood. I used a home's forced hot air filter (cut/modified) for 35 yrs (changing/cleaning @ YF carb) as the lill bob tail brought me an income both hauling and doing woods work. It has been 'brought back' (one 1/2 time in late 80s) w/the 4.1 & 5 speed it has now (2019). I would not usea scoop as the windshield folds down (dont like the looks either), the RBS was slated for this as it's a lrg boar 1v for max tq (came on a 250 @ that time too), love the update w/carb hat (fined like v.c) as a late model bronk hada grill fresh-air-tube to standard a.c. housing (I could use from grill to a lill pas 'behind the battery'), the mounts look oe, I have both SL & BL, lotta cars can not do either/both.
All was planned w/use of a putty blob on the carb & lowering the hood to see what clearance was needed. All pretty routine~
HTH
1) "late Mav mounts";
2) hood scoop;
3) body lift, and yes;
4) suspension lift;
5) remote a.c. housing (I use a carbhat/4ft snorkel to grill)
6) 'low rise carb' (RBS in my case, 1100 in others);
EDIT: (add 1 I left out) '2v direct mount' (ie mill log for drop in carb). See T. Archive for 1 that seems to "lower hood" even more?...
7) custom drill chassy &/or custom make mounts (oem - nother off model/make/etc);
8) "hard mount' motor (no isolator &/or tower) I do not recommend.
I seem to B 4getting 1 or 2 (as I dont usually list what i have today in 7 & 8. See my/our other threads on this (use Search function). Not sure our 'main man' Perry has made a stickie, he's quite busy as it is. I've sorta been "keeper of the low hood solutions" since '09. Try 1, try 'em all (in a single application). I tried the 5 in red altho no mods to #1, it was the only 250 mounts'n towers any 1 /or/ company mailed me. I used several only 2 really helping plus notched the frame cross member (it's my bosses signature when doing most his swaps. If I was in while he sabotaged my rig I would have objected. It was Not needed. It's is not good ina 4WD (less grnd clearance).
When I got my rig ('82) it had 2 dip sticks (ie a falcon 170, bronk oil pan) w/an ac housing hitting the hood. I used a home's forced hot air filter (cut/modified) for 35 yrs (changing/cleaning @ YF carb) as the lill bob tail brought me an income both hauling and doing woods work. It has been 'brought back' (one 1/2 time in late 80s) w/the 4.1 & 5 speed it has now (2019). I would not usea scoop as the windshield folds down (dont like the looks either), the RBS was slated for this as it's a lrg boar 1v for max tq (came on a 250 @ that time too), love the update w/carb hat (fined like v.c) as a late model bronk hada grill fresh-air-tube to standard a.c. housing (I could use from grill to a lill pas 'behind the battery'), the mounts look oe, I have both SL & BL, lotta cars can not do either/both.
All was planned w/use of a putty blob on the carb & lowering the hood to see what clearance was needed. All pretty routine~
HTH
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
I think it's 7, not 100% sure.
times have changed:
www.msdiscounttool.com
B HSS Adjustable Blade Reamer
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