All Small Six Rear main seal - Tips and Tricks

[bubba22349]

What's too tight? They are going to be quite tight to start. Did you trim the rope seal after its properly seated in the block and main cap?

Yes looks like FelPro might be discontinuing that rear main seal and maybe their gasket support for the small Ford Six'es. You can still get one for the time being in the full Felpro gasket set KS2300 at a few place on EBay it looks like JC Witney has them so you might also ask if they have the rear main seal by itself. Rock Auto has one full gasket set at $50.00 if you hurry and they also have some Sealed Power full sets at $32.00 or the Engine Tech set at $31.00. Good luck

 

[4lugnuts]

What's too tight? They are going to be quite tight to start. Did you trim the rope seal after its properly seated in the block and main cap?

Yes looks like FelPro might be discontinuing that rear main seal and maybe their gasket support for the small Ford Six'es. You can still get one for the time being in the full Felpro gasket set KS2300 at a few place on EBay it looks like JC Witney has them so you might also ask if they have the rear main seal by itself. Rock Auto has one full gasket set at $50.00 if you hurry and they also have some Sealed Power full sets at $32.00 or the Engine Tech set at $31.00. Good luck

Thanks Bubba! Just ordered one!

 

[4lugnuts]

The rope seal was so tight that I could not get the crank to turn. I mean really tight., even with a cheater bar... I sued a Ford tool to install it, and I installed it as instructed. There must have been something I missed.

 

[bubba22349]

Hum I never had a rope seal that locked up the crankshaft like that but they are very tight when new. Thats going to be so much better anyway with the neoprene rear seal. Plus you get the Bonus of a little bit of free power back with its reduction in rotational friction. Make sure you knock out or cut off the little rope seal pin in the rear main cap and clean out the block and cap seal groves real good. Also clock the seal properly. Best of luck

 

[78_200_C4]

To help lower the crank, loosen the fan belt(s).

 

[4lugnuts]

Hum I never had a rope seal that locked up the crankshaft like that but they are very tight when new. Thats going to be so much better anyway with the neoprene rear seal. Plus you get the Bonus of a little bit of free power back with its reduction in rotational friction. Make sure you knock out or cut off the little rope seal pin in the rear main cap and clean out the block and cap seal groves real good. Also clock the seal properly. Best of luck

Yeah, I even used a Ford seal tool, makes cutting the ends easy.. Looks like I will probably have to go old school, as the neoprene seal seems to be as available as common sense... Unfortunately, I've knocked out the pin, so I'l be reinstalling something to replace it.

 

[chad]

some just use a best diamiter brad, roll pin of right size- cut off. There's a break clip I've used when goin ol skol. The pin w/head? Not sure name. It's mid-way in the perpendicular plate to the shoe? pins it to the backing plate? the lill circular clip goes over it when U use the brake-spring tool's butt end...

 

[4lugnuts]

Hi, as Bubba mentioned, the friction of the rope seal is significant. It may feel that the crank is stuck. I have not used a rope seal since the 1970s. I remember learning how to soak the in oil and install them by rolling it in with a big pipe.
Did you spin the crank on the new bearings before installing the seal?
Did you check the bearing clearance? I use plasti-gauge.
I doubt by changing to arp studs that you will see and measurable distortion because bearing caps and mounting surface is beefy enough. Just torque the studs and nuts according to the directions.
Good luck

I did spin the crank with bearings installed before installing the rope seal, there was very little friction. I did not plasti-gauge, because couldn't find what I needed then, but I have recently found some and will check (once the weather warms up!) One thing I did not do was to soak the rope seal in oil before instillation, and will do that on the next try..

 

[chad]

if U want give us a tq reading ("it's tight" is a judgment) and might help. Even C the change (tq w/o RS, instal, geta 2nd tq measurment) as math is a specific language...

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

I bought the Mahle JV730R off eBay because the Fel-Pro 2300 kit (or Fel-Pro BS30135 stand alone part) was not available from several retailers and online stores.