Removing heater box/fan...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
That stuff's not too bad really. The biggest pain is getting it all past the glazing channels sometimes, as glass usually went in after. Also, cleaning ancient white grease out of things like door lock coil springs and then relubing takes forever. I put Prepsol in the airbrush at 100 PSI. :shock:

When you're refitting, leave the screws and nuts finger snug until the whole assembly is in and connected. That way if you need to rip it out for some reason (order of assembly?), there's no flaking the finish. Oh, and "butter" under exposed screwheads, locks and strikers with anti-rust wax or fish oil. It'll help keep an air and water-tight seal. Ditto for the outside weatherstrips.

Bassfreak: You'll be surprised how easy dash work is (comparative) with the column and pedal bracket out as an assembly. Don't do it this time, but look under, think it through and you'll see where I'm coming from. :wink: I could pull it in 25 minutes, get under, loosen the handbrake cable, drop that down and the dash was free access on the XC.

Cheers, Adam.
 
Dammit, oh well... thanx Adam :)
I'll keep that in mind, but hopefuly there wont be a "next time" when it comes to removing the dash again! LOL, its a pain in the a$$!
 
bass freak,
You probably know this now!
But, Select low range on the floor change.
Pull all the console mounts and move it back.
Drop the steering coloum.
Loosen and drop the hand brake assembly.
Pull the kick trims at your feet.
Remove the lower outer dash mounts.
Remove the centre dash mount bolts.
Lift the trim and remove the upper dash mount screws.
The dash will now fall into your lap.
Disconnect the electrical and vacuum connectors on the left side and pull the dash assembly onto the passenger seat.
There's the heater assembly.
Piece of pi$$.
Noel.
 
Back
Top