Repair or Replace Radiator?

[SoCar72]

Well, my 2 row radiator is blowing around the top cover from the far right rear end to about 1/3 the way to the left.
So, I'm debating between repairing the radiator, or replacing it with a new one.

My dad had a similar problem with his 67 Galaxie and had the top cover removed, cleaned, and resoldered. For the next few years he fought leaks and resolders until he bought a new one.
This is the only experience I've had with a repaired radiator. Believing that one occurrence does not make a typical condition, has anyone had good results with this type of procedure?

Debating...If I replace it, I'm greatly considering a 3 row unit. I can't think of any reason why not to. I did the same with my Mach, never regretted it.

Still debating...I found some aluminum 3 row units priced competitively to a new copper/brass.
I've never had an aluminum radiator on one of my cars, and can think of no reason to not consider one as a replacement. I've read many articles swearing the benefits of aluminum radiators, but they have all been limited drive, show, and race cars. Has anyone had a bad experience with an aluminum radiator in a daily driver? I can't think of any reason to not go with an aluminum one.

Thoughts?

 

[rbohm]

8) these days i would go ahead and replace the radiator. the price of fixing a rad and replacing it are pretty close now. as for going with a three core rad, make sure you have enough clearance first. i wanted a three core rad in my 64 falcon, but when i tried to install it i had no room at all. granted i didnt have the time to make it fit either. as for a three row aluminum rad, i have never seen one, even on a race car since aluminum rads usually have tubes that are about 3/4" to 1.25" thick which limits them to two rows. aluminum radiators these days are very good for the street for a daily driver, in fact if you look many factory radiators are aluminum cores with plastic tanks and are glued together.

 

[Frankenstang]

the price of fixing a rad and replacing it are pretty close now

This is probably the main reason many here and elsewhere have gone to aluminum replacements (myself included). They're very affordable these days, and frankly I'm suspicious of many radiator rebuild shops any more. Generally the service should include vatting & rodding (sp?)...I just don't know that many shops actually do the rodding (physicially reaming/clearing the radiator tubes with rods) or maybe they just don't do as thorough a job as they once did.

Aluminum has become the standard (especially in new cars as robhm mentioned) for a few reasons, cost, weight, production efficiency. Copper is appreciably more expensive than it was when our vehicles were made and there is no need to paint the aluminum cores...further speeding production while cutting costs. Copper is by far a better conductor of heat, but I'm sure painting the old brass/copper rads reduces that advantage somewhat. Aluminum has the advantage against corrosion. Last stock rad I had rebuilt inevitably sprung it's first leak on a tank seam (poor quality soldering during the rebuild). I went from a 3 row brass/copper unit in need of a rebuild to a new 2 row aluminum, and the increased cooling capacity was big (probably more an indicator of how clogged my old rebuilt stock unit was). When the stock aluminum/plastic tank radiator in my DD '01 dadge sprang a leak last year it was on the seal where the aluminum core meets the plastic tank.

Would also recommend a thorough flush of the cooling system prior to installing a new radiator, as the block and head are the main sources of rust/scale that clog the cooling system. Also would not be a bad time to consider adding a recovery tank if you don't already have one...they further expand cooling capacity.

benefits of aluminum radiators, but they have all been limited drive, show, and race cars

An added plus...they look purty
Good luck!

 

[Lazy JW]

Replace it.

 

[Thad]

OK now admit it you really wanted the bright shiney race car looking aluminum radiator.
Just wanted us to justify. :roll:

 

[ludwig]

I'll offer an opposing view. Really, we all know that the Ford engineers designed this vehicle for optimum performance and efficiency at the lowest reasonable cost. Thus, whatever is done should never remove the car or its drive system from the original spec even if low cost technology from a later era is available without major alterations of the engine, body or drive train.

Naaaaa. I just said that to see what it looks like in print. Replace it. If you're squishy about the look, paint it black. Better yet, get that gooey paste that the radiator shop uses.

H*ll, yeah. If you can make it better for cheap, why not? Oh, and forget the paint.

 

[jamyers]

...Really, we all know that the Ford engineers designed this vehicle for optimum performance ....

Now THAT'S funny! :rolflmao:

 

[rocklord]

...... Ford engineers designed this vehicle for optimum performance and efficiency at the lowest reasonable cost.

That's why we have the lethargic log head. No performance, poor efficiency, unreasonable design, but the lowest cost.
Bean counters were in control even back then.

Replace the radiator with an aluminum one if originality is not a factor.

 

[ludwig]

Hey look, Marv!! We can save ten bucks per block if we make the intake manifold, cylinder head and exhaust ports all in one butt ugly piece."

I read in MM once, "remember this car [Mustang] was the second cheapest Ford produced." The cheapest was the Falcon. Doesn't change how I feel about them. I'm just a realist.

 

[mugsy]

That's why we have the lethargic log head. No performance, poor efficiency, unreasonable design, but the lowest cost.

My Dad worked at Ford from '54 till '60 as an engineer in the truck division. He remembers talking to the engineers on the Falcon program; their main design concern was gas mileage. The engineers were told to do everything to increase the miles per gallon rating. It seems that another car company had introduced a small, light weight, air-cooled engine vehicle that got excellent gas mileage. The Falcon was Ford's response to that vehicle. And in that part of the auto market, performance was a secondary concern.

Now back to the real question. Just go ahead and replace teh radiator. When I bought my car the radiator had a small leak. I paid a shop to fix the leak just so I could drive it home from Rockingham NC to Toledo, OH. The rad sprung a leak about two years later. By that time, the radiator's metal was too far gone. If money is short then repair what you have But there is a high pobability that it will leak again in a few years. Bite the bullet now and replace it with something new. Remember, everything has a finite life.

 

[SoCar72]

I have no problem swapping old for new (T5 and 16" wheels...so far). I was leaning more towards replacement anyway.
I greatly appreciate the encouragement toward the aluminum radiator, I'll go that route and post the installation with photos.

:rolflmao: The commentary cracks me up. :rolflmao:

 

[rbohm]

:rolflmao: The commentary cracks me up. :rolflmao:

8) and all this time you thought we didnt have a sense of humor. boy did we fool you

 

[Lazy JW]

..... main design concern was gas mileage. The engineers were told to do everything to increase the miles per gallon rating......

Yup. Keeping the intake warm and stable is a significant advantage when pursuing economy. Not a new concept, Willys did the same thing on their F-Head. Doesn't help high-speed performance a bit.
Joe

 

[CobraSix]

Replace with a 3-row. Cheap and effective. Unless your fan is right up against the radiator, space should be a problem. If it is, you can get a smaller spacer. I went from 2 to 3, no space problems at all with a stock fan. Now my problem is getting the car warm enough in the winter for heat.

 

[69.5Mav]

Now my problem is getting the car warm enough in the winter for heat

Replace Therostat every winter and clean the mating surfaces like you were going to eat off them. Also an electric fan with a turn on point set above the Thermostat open point will help some to.

 

[CobraSix]

My problem is an overcorrection for an overheating condition. I did everything else prior to replacing the radiator, including replacing the T-stat with a high flow 180* T-stat. That combined with ceramic headers, the engine bay doesn't even get hot on a hot day, much less when it's 20* outside.

My solution is to drive my Volvo with nice heated leather seats and other creature comforts in the winter. One of these days I'll get off my lazy bum and replace the T-stat in both the mustang and my exploder (it's stuck open and doesn't allow the truck to heat up either).

 

[ludwig]

I don't get it. Just do the Minnesota Mod: put a piece of cardboard over the front of the radiator leaving only about 1/4 of the radiator exposed. Cheap, quick and if you use a beer case with the label side out, it has a real snappy, downscale look.

 

[CobraSix]

That's what I did with the Explorer.

 

[mugsy]

I don't get it. Just do the Minnesota Mod: put a piece of cardboard over the front of the radiator leaving only about 1/4 of the radiator exposed. Cheap, quick and if you use a beer case with the label side out, it has a real snappy, downscale look.

Sounds like what da Yoopers (resident from Michigan's Upper Peninsula) do!!! As a matter of fact about 7/8 of all pick-up trucks in da UP have dat modification from October trew March. Plus you can tell if da driver might be a future beer-drinking buddy by the brand of beer case covering the radiator.

 

[ludwig]

You betcha dere, Ed Finn.