rocker set-up

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Hello..hey can some one put in easy to follow english how to set up the rockers plz. or point me towards a post Ive tried looking.

crossflow 4.1 ;)

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This is what I have done so far...

TDC on #1 power,rotor pointing at 1 in the dizzy also = TDC on #6no power cycle?
and then torqued down to 25nm
1in 1ex 2in 3ex 4in 5ex

180deg turn on the crank = TDC on #6 power,rotor pointing at 6 in the dizzy. Looks to be TDC for #1 no power cycle?
2ex 3in 4ex 5in 6in 6ex

Is this correct ??

I did notice that the springs get a little compressed on some of them when torqued down to 25nm....This cant be right it would be bringing the valves on even if it is just a little.

It has now been run on idle just up to operating temp so I could do the re-torque of the head after it cooled, cause its just been off for some work.All lifters filled and flowed oil with in minutes while doing this plenty of oil was poured over while I waited for them all to flow(rocker cover off)


some input from peoples in the know will be appreciated plz
 
std rockers just trying to bolt them down in the correct order and tightness without bringing the valves on
 
ok well all i have ever done is just bolt them all down at once.
count the turns down then shim them to have all the same turns down to det the preload all the same.
then just do them up tight never had a problem no matter what engine it was (race/street)
 
thanks for your time with the replies :wink: , sounds like its a matter of working out what bolt takes the least amount of turns and then shim the rest to match. does this not throw the lift and fall all out of wack?
lifters show a bit of wear on them I guess the cam will as well but this stage has been a get going stage and maybe the rings,bearings etc re con in the winter.
might do a different block when I do that stage this one had a bit of corrosion around the water ports where the head gasket bolted down, the wreckers are chucking away short blocks so I just need to find one that will let me strip a couple of them to find a goodun. any particular block I should look out for?
 
hey
try an chase a 86da block (last of the xflows late xf
and try and chase a 200 block for the rods.
drift
 
crossflows have non adjustable rockers which mean you tighten them up and thats it.they mostly use hydralic cams (unless you have put a solid in) and having load on them when you tighten them up is quite normal.
 
thats cool I will look for a 86da I have a running 200 non crossflow cast head sitting in the garage its what the crossflow has just replaced.
All standard on the crossflow at this stage.

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ok what motor are you talking about with doing the rockers?a crossflow or a precrossflow as there different?
 
hi sonny thats fine it was the 'crossflow' I was asking about. Just had it out for a run...pity it only lasted 15mins due to water in the oil yet again grrr head had been in the machine shop for a tidy up some welding was done around the water ports due to corrosion. Fitted it back together and had the head gasket leak, back to the shop for a head check was all ok so slip another new gasket in and made sure I had zero oil in the bolt holes and I did squirt oil under the bolt heads and a tiny bit on the threads.
dam it now on to work out the water in oil check list :x

The pre crossflow pics are of the engine I took out :wink:
 
maybe its time for another head?i had a head i stuck with for a while but could never get it fixed,i chucked the head for a good second hand and all was great again.
 
ok this is what I have come up with after doing a compression test on the crossflow.
Had to do it cold wasn't able to run long enough to get enough heat for a warmed up test. This oil has gone a creamy brown color after 15mins of running, Oil level went up a little.
#6=145psi
#5=160
#4=165
#3=165
#2=170
#1=150

I suspect it may be the water jacket on the block at the end of #6 letting go the block does show some corrosion around all the water ports, I had hoped it was going to be ok for awhile. Don't think so now grrr.

I took note of the block codes and it dint seem to match up
block=83da6016aa(MA54CP?on it being a P. 8592)
its got a C1A head with a C2inlet and a 84DA TB carb(a5f3) this carb runs too rich =black plugs real quick all the vac pipes have been plugged on the inlet a couple still up&down on the carb don't need them in a boat, not done a carb kit yet.

It looks like I will be better off getting a reasonable block from the wreckers rather than do a full strip and weld and deck my current block its gunna want rings etc etc and if I have to do this its cheaper to get a different block.

Got three to check out tomorrow not quite sure what they are just yet 1 was over heated and stuffed the head so I guess that will need rings/bearings?.
At the end of the day all I am after is a reliable engine to run at 3000-3700rpm on a tight budget.

It was mentioned that the rods in the pre crossflow iron head was the go heres the codes from that block ARC8DE-6015 200 (G4 up front)
My garage is going to end up looking like a s/h ford motor parts depot by the time a get yet another engine in there but I should be able to put something ok for me together out of 3 engines with the help here??? lol
 
thats interesting addo I always thought it was a 200 (3.3) its got 200 in the cast on the side of the block just above the fuel pump.
But you saying that means those rods are a no go? I will run a search and have a read up on the 221&188 just out of interest cause I do prefer to go with the 4.1crossflow for the boat, just what block it will be is ?? at this stage.
 
Must be the very last of 200s, then; I have an ARC8DA 221! If it's a 200, it'll be a short rod one - not the 1970s motor which people raid for a long rod 250.
 
yeah ya can put the xflow head on the pre x block its in the tech section.
just not staght up.
hell they put them on holden 186/202.
 
i have sat a crossflow head onto a pre crossflow motor and even the other way around and the precrossflow block is about 30mm narrower than a crossflow,anything can be done with a large amount of cash but it wouldnt be easy.
 
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