Rollers for the 170
- Thread starter Nytram
- Start date
MPGmustang":1airkrya said:
Correct
Nytram":1airkrya said:
Roller tipped rockers will bolt right in
Full roller rockers need the head removed in order to install the V8 oil through style lifters
Nytram":1airkrya said:
Roller lifters are not readily avalable and would require the instalation of a roller cam as well. In adition you would probably have to moddify the block as well. This would best be done durring a rebuild.
There is some one in the big block forrum who has offerred to get roller cams made but I bet it's expensive, feel free to chime in my poor memory can't recall your handle.
Roller rockers have been around for an age for the small six. There are any of the big name big block FE items which can be retrofited on a bolt on basis, but you have to remove the head gasket to get to the lifters, and maybee use common the lifter removal tool or some good inner expanding pliers.
Yella Terra Australia supply a kit, but you need specific dimensions which Classic Inlines can help with, but the kit is Australian, and Aussie 200 and 250 engines have a different valve guide, retainer and pushrod arrangement , which aren't the same as the US engines for deck height. (Due to the kit mainly going onto post 1971 to 1974 250 2V 170 HP M-code I6 engines, its geared for that engines often adjustable valve train)
Regards roller cam followers and cams, there are three methods and two sources, but they certainly are not bolt on arrangements.
Method 1: For the easiest roller cam, use the 200 or 250 Australian X-flow block. A roller cam has been around since a few Aussie guys Ray Spence (Crow Cams) and Lynx industries got asked to make one for a Texan racer called JR in 1989 for a proposed X-flow 250/4.1 Aussie block in a US Econo Rail class.
Since the X-Flow Roller lifters cams are based on the log head block crtical dimensions bar a few chances for the rear bearing, they off the shelf, and its easy to get if you use the Australian Ivan Tighe cam, and specify rearranged intake and exhast order to the pre cross flow 144/170/188/221/250 item. See http://www.tighecams.com.au/different.htm
Contact the owner http://www.tighecams.com.au/sales.htm
An example of how simple it is using good old US roller followers on an x-flow is here
Method 2 and 3: For US log head and pre X-flow Aussie blocks. There are two methods of arranging the link bars or steel or brass botton spiders....the Argentine style method which requires removal of the block and some fairly mercenary riffle drilling so conventional 385 Lima (370/429/460 big block) roller followers can be placed in.
Second method is to peg a cut down 5.0 roller spider or an after market brass botton. That has a few issues, but is doable.
I find it easier to do the Argentine mod rather than use the X-flow block, but if your smart there isn't any real limit to the roller cam conversion.
Yella Terra Australia supply a kit, but you need specific dimensions which Classic Inlines can help with, but the kit is Australian, and Aussie 200 and 250 engines have a different valve guide, retainer and pushrod arrangement , which aren't the same as the US engines for deck height. (Due to the kit mainly going onto post 1971 to 1974 250 2V 170 HP M-code I6 engines, its geared for that engines often adjustable valve train)
Regards roller cam followers and cams, there are three methods and two sources, but they certainly are not bolt on arrangements.
Method 1: For the easiest roller cam, use the 200 or 250 Australian X-flow block. A roller cam has been around since a few Aussie guys Ray Spence (Crow Cams) and Lynx industries got asked to make one for a Texan racer called JR in 1989 for a proposed X-flow 250/4.1 Aussie block in a US Econo Rail class.
Since the X-Flow Roller lifters cams are based on the log head block crtical dimensions bar a few chances for the rear bearing, they off the shelf, and its easy to get if you use the Australian Ivan Tighe cam, and specify rearranged intake and exhast order to the pre cross flow 144/170/188/221/250 item. See http://www.tighecams.com.au/different.htm
Contact the owner http://www.tighecams.com.au/sales.htm
An example of how simple it is using good old US roller followers on an x-flow is here
Method 2 and 3: For US log head and pre X-flow Aussie blocks. There are two methods of arranging the link bars or steel or brass botton spiders....the Argentine style method which requires removal of the block and some fairly mercenary riffle drilling so conventional 385 Lima (370/429/460 big block) roller followers can be placed in.
Second method is to peg a cut down 5.0 roller spider or an after market brass botton. That has a few issues, but is doable.
I find it easier to do the Argentine mod rather than use the X-flow block, but if your smart there isn't any real limit to the roller cam conversion.
huh, didn't see you mentioned rooler lifters... but for the 170... not really, I don't even know if they use the same lifters as the 200ci...
the best so far would be solid oil through lifters with hollow push rods for roller rockers with roller tips.
the best so far would be solid oil through lifters with hollow push rods for roller rockers with roller tips.
When, I check the engine out I'll see the condition it's in and go from there. My Buick has its original engine in it also, and it is really an oddball without a following. I put a pertronix II, MSD 6AL, a two wire altenator, and removed the regulator, so I should be able to handle this I6 with some of the same upgrades. It has 40k on the odometer, I hope it's true.. But anyway I won't know till I get home.
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