Cool23":vwyco5wi said:
so would not sitting for 20 years... :rolflmao:
Rusty Radiator Water
- Thread starter cherrybomber
- Start date
so would not sitting for 20 years... :rolflmao:
Forget flushing, get some steel rods, coat hangers, and start digging. At the back of the block there is gong to be a pile of crud, rust, sand, and dirt. You'll have to physically dig it out.
CLR or even a few gallons of undiluted vinegar would help clean it up. fill the block and let it sit for a week. They won't harm the iron - they only attack the rust.
I've used another product called Evaporust that works real well.
CLR or even a few gallons of undiluted vinegar would help clean it up. fill the block and let it sit for a week. They won't harm the iron - they only attack the rust.
I've used another product called Evaporust that works real well.
something (short of disembly) caustic and designed for motor flush seems safest for gaskets and hoeses. Flushing "in both directions" several times, then the traditional yrly or 2X yrly change/flush would work for most. I like the idea of the spare radiator for the worse ones (rehab) but it's need cleaning between each flush. One felle (from GB) has a thread on here of a piping system he put in w/spin off canister (diesel motor style) removable cartridge style deal.
just being cheap here...
I have 3 cans of acid dip, you know for nuts bolts carbs and small metal things that are greasy or stuck... or rusty
can I mix one can with water and have ti sit in the block for a few days, mostly to fill it on the rust lvl not the entire block... My idea would to 'break' up all that junk into smaller parts before I start flowing other liquids through the system and then run water backwards to flush it out.
after that just one gallon of CLR or what ever I can find cheap enough at Autozoo...
I'm looking into a passive way of cleaning the block as cheap as I can get.
I have 3 cans of acid dip, you know for nuts bolts carbs and small metal things that are greasy or stuck... or rusty
can I mix one can with water and have ti sit in the block for a few days, mostly to fill it on the rust lvl not the entire block... My idea would to 'break' up all that junk into smaller parts before I start flowing other liquids through the system and then run water backwards to flush it out.
after that just one gallon of CLR or what ever I can find cheap enough at Autozoo...
I'm looking into a passive way of cleaning the block as cheap as I can get.
Muriatic acid, like used in swimming pools (also know as Hydrochloric acid) can remove rust. Don't know how long you would leave it in or what amount to dilute it too, study up on it if you decide to try it 
make sure you would have lots of ventilation and protect your skin.
make sure you would have lots of ventilation and protect your skin.I would do it red neck style, pour in the can then top off with water. no measurement, no research... I'm sure it won't explode... will it??? :|
No I don't think so here is Some directions used for cleaning a Pool
Add 1 gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can (Always add acid to water, never the other way around). Wet down the wall with a hose. Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it. Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 10 foot section at a time. Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for very long. Usually 30 seconds is long enough. Use an acid brush to scrub the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.
Make sure acid is rinsed completely, as it will continue to etch the plaster. Also try to prevent the acid from wearing a channel path from shallow end to deep end. This can create a worn stripe on the floor.
If the 50/ 50 mixture isn't strong enough, you can increase the acid strength or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. Usually pools are acid washed twice with the same strength mixture. Remember that you don't want to damage or "burn" the plaster.
After the acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. Use 2 lbs of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used. Broadcast the ash over the puddle while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants or kill fish, frogs, etc. Rinse the bowl again, and re-pour the bowl of the deep end to clean up well around the drain, being careful not to burn the plaster too much.
Don't rush the job and be safe. The fumes can be very strong, and very dangerous. Be sure to wear a respirator that will block muriatic acid fumes, goggles or safety glasses and protective clothing. Wear old shoes, or rubber boots. Spray off before exiting the pool. Transporting the acid from the store to the house can be hazardous also. Secure the load in the vehicle. Always have a second person nearby when acid washing the pool. If acid drops enter the mouth or eye, rinse with the hose for 15 mins, without a nozzle on it. Acid on the skin won't usually burn too much, just rinse quickly, for 30 seconds.
Add 1 gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can (Always add acid to water, never the other way around). Wet down the wall with a hose. Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it. Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 10 foot section at a time. Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for very long. Usually 30 seconds is long enough. Use an acid brush to scrub the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.
Make sure acid is rinsed completely, as it will continue to etch the plaster. Also try to prevent the acid from wearing a channel path from shallow end to deep end. This can create a worn stripe on the floor.
If the 50/ 50 mixture isn't strong enough, you can increase the acid strength or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. Usually pools are acid washed twice with the same strength mixture. Remember that you don't want to damage or "burn" the plaster.
After the acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. Use 2 lbs of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used. Broadcast the ash over the puddle while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants or kill fish, frogs, etc. Rinse the bowl again, and re-pour the bowl of the deep end to clean up well around the drain, being careful not to burn the plaster too much.
Don't rush the job and be safe. The fumes can be very strong, and very dangerous. Be sure to wear a respirator that will block muriatic acid fumes, goggles or safety glasses and protective clothing. Wear old shoes, or rubber boots. Spray off before exiting the pool. Transporting the acid from the store to the house can be hazardous also. Secure the load in the vehicle. Always have a second person nearby when acid washing the pool. If acid drops enter the mouth or eye, rinse with the hose for 15 mins, without a nozzle on it. Acid on the skin won't usually burn too much, just rinse quickly, for 30 seconds.
swimming pools?? what I'm lost... what's that have to do with a rusty engine water passages...
Yeah I though you to use the instructions on the mixing, neutralizing, and handling safety.
Long ago Muriatic Acid was used to pickle steel and also used to remove rust from steel does a great job. But after the rust is gone it will continue to dissolve the basis steel. So when the rust is gone you will need neutralize it and to rinse good. The fumes from the acid, can cause surface rust to any steel parts in the close vacinity. Muriatic Acid (the Swimming Pool type) is relatively pure at 30%.
Rust Removers by Other Makers
http://www.ecomade.com/ainfo.php/lid/17/products_id/28
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