stalling

JackFish

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I tried the dizzy spring swap that's in the sticky here, and replaced what I think is the "heavier" of the two springs.
I did not bend the tab as per the second instruction, because I wasn't sure about the doing it correctly.
As long as I don't romp on the gas the engine is running smoothly and has great mid-range response.
But from a stop it's much too easy to stall the engine with a heavy foot.
I'm going to pull it and do some more tinkering and was hoping for some suggestions.
I will take a drive today with the vacuum unhooked and see how she runs.
Will bending that spring tab make a difference? The instructions are a little murky, can someone clarify which post or tab to bend?
Oh, and I'm using a 13* cam plate on the dizzy, and have the initial timing set at 10*, for 36* total mechanical advance.
I also have a 10* cam plate available if it make a difference.
Using ported vac from a Holley 1946.
I assume that when I accelerate, vacuum drops almost to zero, and then it stalls? :?
I'm not talking about foot to the floor, just quick throttle actions bog and stall it.
 
I'm not sure it's the spring/dizzy/timing. Even if you have no vacuum you still have 10 degrees of timing - and I would expect a change in performance but not stalling. It sounds more like the carb. If you go back to the original spring is the stall avoided? If so then you may be on the right track - but if not then maybe carb needs to be looked at. I would think the accel pump would be the starting place - but I'm not familiar with that carb.

But, let's see what the others have to add for feedback.

matt
 
You may be on to something, perhaps the timing now exaggerates a pre-existing condition.
Before the change it was also possible to cause a stumble, esp. when cold, but I just attributed that being as sort of inherent to the 1-barrel design. A slight delay - from which the engine was able to recover.
I have another carb that I'm cleaning up, so I might be able to swap that out shortly.
 
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