All Small Six Starting after 37 years

This relates to all small sixes

JT1

New member
My 200 is a Ford reman with about 30,000 miles on it that last ran in 1989.

It sat (in the car) from 89 to about 92-93 outside, then was moved into non climate controlled storage until 96, then climate controlled storage until now.

What should I check in the long block before firing it up?

My thoughts were to use a bore scope in the spark plug holes to see what the cylinder walls look like. Then squirt some oil in each one, leave it sit a few days to a couple weeks, then turn it over with a wrench on the front. Possible take the distributor out and prime with a spare distributor shaft either before or after the "by hand" turn over.

Thoughts?
 
I can't think of anything else you'd want to do. One of our members recently had a rocker break in half so maybe have a cursory look at the valvetrain with the valve cover off while you rotate the crank to make sure everything is a-ok. Definitely a good idea to prime the oil pump and make sure you get good pressure before applying ignition.

Being that it was in a car while it was outside, it should be ok. Hopefully the carburetor and air cleaner were on it when it was decommissioned; unless the rocker assemble was taken off, valves have been sitting open for the last 37 years. The springs might be sprung.
 
Note:
The following procedures below is what I would personally follow.

• Purchase 5w-30 High Mileage Oil. It has additives in to help soften seals.

Note:
A thinner viscosity oil will flow much easier and hopefully get to all engine components sooner.

• The oil should be drained and filter replaced. Do not fill engine at this time. But, fill oil filter as much as one is able without making a mess and install.

Note:
If one up to it, and one able. Removing the oil pan and squirting oil or brushing cam assembly lube on the cam lobes and lifters would help.

• Remove Valve Cover.

• Remove rocker arm shaft and remove springs.

• Inspect valve spring height and spring pressure.

• Remove valve guide seals. Then squirt oil on each valve stem and work the valve stem up and down until they move freely. Replace all valve guide seals with new ones and replace springs.

• Use some oil to squirt down the push rod holes. If an an oiling can is available,put the tip of the squirt tube and pump the oil on the pushrod so it will be able to drip down to the lifter. Most oils will cling to parts. Use lots of oil to do this. (A quart or more).

• Squirt oil on all valve stem ends, retainers and keepers.

• Disassemble the rocker arm shaft and do a complete cleaning and lube job with the purchased oil. Make sure each rocker arm pushrod end and valve stem is coated with oil. is coated Reinstall rocker arm assembly and torque to manufactures specifications.

• Buy a can of engine fogging oil. Remove all spark plugs and spray a once in each cylinder and allow it to sit. This allows the fogging oil time to work its way around the cylinder, pistons and rings.

• Time to fill the engine with the rest of its recommended oil amount.

• Remove Distributor and use hand drill to prime pump. Keep priming until is oil coming out around rocker arm shaft and pushrod end.

• Reinstall distributor and time properly.

• Use a breaker bar and socket and start working the crankshaft back and forth. Start with small movements (less than 5 degrees) and work up to 1/16th, 1/8th, 1/4, 3/8th 1/2, 5/8th, 3/4, 7/8th then full revolutions the proper engine rotation.

• Do compression test on each cylinder. And keep readings in a safe place.

• Install spark plugs.

• Momentarily start engine up and listen for unusual noise. Run for only a few seconds while closely monitoring oil pressure. If everything sounds and looks ok, reinstall valve cover with new gasket and snug down.

• Restart engine and bring up to high idle 1,500 - 2,000 rpm’s. This allows oil to fling up to the camshaft and lifters quickly. Once running for a few minutes, hopefully lifters will quiet down quickly and everything will be fine.

• Torque the valve cover to manufactures specifications.
 
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It does make me nervous having set so long. Oil can solidify over thin on parts. I have new roller rockers se for a couple yrs- they seized up😕
 
Don,
I know exactly what you’re saying. This is why I’ve written the to do list in post #3. It’s short of a complete tear down and cleaning.
 
TJ1,
🤔 I been thinking, there are oils specifically formulated to clean engines. Valvoline has a 5w-30 oil that you might consider trying.

Watch the clip below:

If I had an engine sitting as long as yours had. I would give it a try once I did the to do list in post #3. The oil seems to clean pistons and rings very well. It should also clean solidified oil off other parts as well over time.
 
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