Stuck Thermostat Bolt - can I heat it????

65fback

Well-known member
I went to change the thermostat this weekend while going through the hoses. What with everything else I've been finding on the car that hasn't been touched in how long, I figured the hoses and thermostat weren't trustworthy. In retrospect I'm both (a) glad and (b) ticked off that I did.

When I pulled the upper radiator hose off I found a whole heap of crud all around the thermostat. I should have taken a picture. It was NASTY. And that was after doing a flush at home. I don't know if all the junk congregated there or if it had been there all along (makes me wonder if I should take radiator in for a boil). Then I went to pull the thermostat cover off because, well, you know, there was crud and the thermostat was probably punky. I snapped one of the two bolts. It went real easy. I was a little surprised to say the least. It's been a long time since I snapped one so I'd forgotten what it feels like. The other bolt came out.

The bolt didn't snap at the head. It snapped just a little way into the thermostat housing, so there's a lot of meat to grab onto. I've been soaking it with penetrating oil since Sunday, first with WD-40 and today with PB Blaster. So far it has refused to budge. I'm not keen on giving it too much oomph and making matters worse (yet).

Is it possible to heat the bolt to ease extraction, or will I be royally messing with the head? I'd rather go the long route, pull the radiator and drill the bolt out than have to take the head in to be trued up - I'd rather not spend any $ on the head seeing as it's an early log and I intend to go to a late log head at some point in the future.
 
65fb, Yes, you can use heat. use just propane first. Apply heat to the head area around & beside the bolt from thermo opening. Use penetrant, heat, patience, light tapping straight in on the bolt. This is common occurance because of corrosion with aluminum. Crud buildup is common also because of age and most people didn't used to flush & replenish. Be sure to use some anti-seize on new cap screws. Patience,patience, vice-grips.
Good luck.
Gary
 
Thanks, Gary. Patience it is. I was hoping to get the car on the road. I got exactly two drives in before the heater core busted loose, prompting me to take a closer look at everything :bang: . I think I'll keep soaking it until this weekend when I can devote some concentrated time to it. I've got a couple other fish to fry to get the car inspection-worthy in NH (parking brake, cluster lights, horn).
 
X2 little heat will help break it loose. While you have it apart you might do some more flushing also. Pull lower hose and back flush the radiator (from lower hose) to get as much of the crude out of top of radiator. Good idea to also do the block too since you have it open so it dose not plug up the radiator. Good Luck
 
Best method is to weld a nut on whats left. The high heat breaks it loose and the nut gives you a way to turn it. I've done it many times.
 
In these situations I've had good luck with CRC Freeze Off and things like it. Hose it down, tap it with a punch & hammer (to break corrosion/rust) and then ease it out. If you have enough space, you can also slot it with a Dremel & a cutoff wheel and then use a meaty screwdriver or, better yet, an impact screwdriver, to turn it out.
 
:bang: Hi 65fback.If the bolt protruded into the coolant,make sure that you clean orff those threads before you try to back it out.If you don`t,you could ruin the threads in the head.
In cases like you have,I have had good luck by turning the bolt as if tightening it,and removing it from the inside.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Oh great. OK. I'll reach in from inside and see if I can feel the bolt from the inside. Thanks for the tip.
 
Addendum...

So of course I went to put it back together. That was the whole point, RIGHT???? Thermostat housing decided to snap when I went to torque it down. :bang: Yes, I checked the torque specifications before I went to tighten it down. Oh well. Off to order another part.
 
Yes that sure happens often with those :bang: maybe fatigue from heat cycles ?
 
It looks an awful lot like pot metal. I dunno. I just want my car on road to enjoy before winter...
 
I got a closer look at the broken thermostat housing. Definitely pot metal. No wonder it had such a low torque value (12-15 ft lb). Pep Boys auto had replacement for half of what I could buy it for online from the mustang parts stores. Cast aluminum. Much more solid, even if it is from China. :P

Good to go (coolant wise). Off to my next problem. Thanks all!
 
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