T5 adapter / Demon 98

texas_rat_trap

texas_rat_trap

Well-known member
Anyone runnin' a Barry Grant Demon 98 on there ride...well they don't have a metered vacuum port for vacuum advance distributor. Thinkin' about going with the Petronix setup and was wondering if anyone eles has used it and if you can feel a big difference in performance with the electronic ignition?
 
Can't offer any help with the carb, but I do run a Pertronix I with matching coil. Very easy install, slight improvement in mileage and ease of starting, and most of all trouble free. I did pick up a Mallory dual point centrifical distributor some time ago that I figured to use if I ever decided to change to a different type carb. I am still running the Holley 1904 carb and the LOM distributor and the setup with the Pertronix install has been running very good for better than 5 years now. This is on a 62 F100 with a 223 with a T5 behind it and still running the 3.70 rear.

Fred
 
I used the adapter kit made and sold by John Mummert at www,ford-y-block.com. He will furnish all you need to install a T5 to the bell, including a new proper clutch setup. Almost a bolt in, you will need a shorter driveshaft.

Fred
 
Just find a 1957-60 223 ford f-100 bell housing and weld a slug on to the bell housing then thread the slug. 3 of the 4 bolts line-up. Then get a 1994 or later t5 mustang transmisson. You will have to change out the speedo from electric to manual. Be sure to measure where the shifter location is going land. Change out the throw out bearing and shorten the driveline. Can't think of much else. I well look around for a couple of helpful website. ie. 223 ford t5 swap. If you have the transmission I think all could be done for $250.
 
Been over 5 years since I changed mine over to T5 so may be a little more now, don't know. He charged me 400 plus shipping, this included the fully machined adapter plate with the proper attaching bolts, a new clutch disk, a new diaphram pressure plate, a Throwout bearing mounted on a machined collar to fit on the T5 input tube & to work with the throwout fork on our early vehicles, a proper sized pilot bearing to mate the input shaft to the hole in the crankshaft, and a good set of directions. He has it all worked out so it is almost a bolt-in. I did have to shorten the input shaft about 5/16 of an inch to allow the crankshaft to have some endplay (he covers this in his directions), very easy to do with an air powered cutoff wheel, could use a dremel. I also had to massage the flat portion of the floorboards some to create a slight roundness because the T5 is somewhat (about 1 inch) taller from the mainshaft centerline to the top of the shifter housing than the 3.03 because the 3.03 had the side shifter levers. Also had to use a shorter driveshaft. The output yoke is the same size and spline as the 3.03 so I used my old one, but I did cut it off about 1 & 1/4 inch in order to minimize wear on the output bushing. As I said, he has it all figured out so it is basically a bolt-in and you don't have to re-engineer anything. I did the entire changeover in one afternoon. Another reason for my choice to use his "kit" was that the closest Junkyard to my location is over in Thatcher, about 55 miles from me, so I didn't have to try to find something that might work together. As to the shifter position, I just made a small plate out of 1/8 inch steel to move the upper shift lever about 3 inches to the front as the lower lever comes up just in front of the seat bottom, the offset from the lower to the upper shift lever allows the trans to be shifted to the 2, 4, & R positions without interferance with the seat. I am very well pleased with how it has worked out. It has not caused an problems and is very reliable. I have driven all over the country since and would not hesitate to drive it anywhere at anytime. If you need any more info, let me know.

Fred
 
One thing to remember is that the pickup bell bousing is thicker front to back than the car one so a spacer would probably be required for this same swap into a car. The pilot bearing adapter would be the same. The sleeve inside the throwout bearing would be a different diameter or wall thickness but the principle is the same. Notice the nice position of the shifter handle using the s10 trans. Most of the Mustang T5s have the shifter handle back near the rear end of the tail shaft housing. Nice swap.
 
On the John Mummert Mustang T5 adapter...Will I have shifter to seat interference issues? $179.00 for the adapter not bad price. The adapter he is selling, is that just a modified bellhousing?
 
The adapter he sent me was a very beautifuly machined piece that fit exactly as it should on both sides. It mated up to my bellhousing and the Trans bolted up to it as it was designed to do. You also need the TO Bearing carrier that he has worked out to make this an easy installation. As I stated already, he has worked out all the problems for you, why try to make it harder on yourself? It is a lot easier to make up a little plate to move the upper part of the shifter forward than it is to deal with all the problems associated with mating the S-10 shifter parts to the Ford T5. Why are you trying to make it harder to do, just pay the few extra dollars and take advantage of his engineering. I have found over the years that it is a wise decision to utilize good engineering over trying to setup something that may or may not work and winding up with a scrapped project or something that is a dissatifaction to use. Sorry to come across like this, but I have found no one that is dissatisfied with John Mummert's products or his engineering. He puts out some very well thought out products and you will be shortchanging yourself if you try to shortcut doing some project that has already been worked out. I have Been There - Done That in the past.

Fred
 
The y-block bolt pattern on the back of the engine is different than the 215/223 bolt pattern on the back of the engine. The trans bolt pattern for the 3 speed (car)trans is the same as the pickup.
 
That bellhousing that he sells to bolt the T5 directly it is a 4 spd bell. you can see in the picture that he has modified it to accept the T5 bolt pattern. You can go either way, depending on what you want. You can exchange your bellhousing for one of his and change out to a T5 permanently, or as I elected to do and keep my bellhousing, and add the adapter setup. I still have my 3.03, shifter, and driveline sitting in the garage and if necessary, could change back over to stock in about 2 hours time. Depending on which way you decide to go as far as the bellhousing or the adapter will determine which model of the T5 you will need as the input varied as to length and pilot size. Also there was a difference in depth of the bellhousings (from block surface to trans surface) whether the bellhousing was a car or pickup application.

Fred
 
Okay think I'm goin fmartin_gila's way. Seems to be the most efficent, easiest, cheapest way. Do I need to move the transmission crossmember or does't line back up pretty close an the bell housing I need for the adapter, thats any 54-62 Ford car 3 speed manual.
 
I don't know about the mounts you are dealing with as I only do pickups. You need to email John to get the details of which trans to look for as to your application.

Fred
 
forget mummert and go with the dwight bond unit. i have one behind my 215 and it works prefectly, uses the original ford clutch and throwout bearing and cost less than 90 bucks
 
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