t5 swap 66 mustang 200

Thanks for your Reply. I did loop the two connectors. One plug for the rear backup lights, and the other plug to start the car. I stuck a wire in 1 connector and looped around to the other side of the same plug connector and it did work. Thank you so much.

I've got the T5 transmission in the car. It is hooked up, and it bolted on really nice with the 66 bellhousing and an adaptor plate from NPD. My fabricated, "jig" , adaptor for the 1990. Clutch slave cylinder seems to work good.

I purchase a crossmember from NPD, made by MDL. Nice piece, little more then I wanted to spend, I probably could have made the crossmember but I'm glad I decided to go with MDLs. The shifter fits right into the stock hole in the transmission tunnel. I didn't have to cut any metal, so far, haha...Thanks Modern Drive Line..

Now the drive shaft? I am completely confused what to do. I understand that the stock yoke from the original drive shaft will not work. Can I use the original 66 c4 yoke? I haven't checked,
because I filled the transmission with fluid and I didn't want to fumble around with the original yoke while transmission fluid is pouring out the back of it. Yes, I know, I should have waited to fill it. But, anyway,..my stock c4 6cyl yoke looks a lot smaller.

I acquired an aod yoke some time ago. And it fits right into the T5 transmission. However I don't know what the combination is to get that yoke to bolt on to the stock driveshaft .. My current driveshaft Is for a C4,.. 66 Mustang. 6 cyl.

I did buy another used drive shaft. The gentleman I purchased it from said it was for a 65 Mustang with a 3-speed. He did pull it out of a 65 mustang trunk with a 3speed, however the engine was changed to a none running 302, and the car was a T code c6yl car...However this driveshaft seems to be about three inches shorter. That's odd?

I have two drive shafts, and several U joints.... And I am confused. What do you guys think? What do I do? Please help?

And,..how much play or movement in and out should the yoke installed in the T5 have.Thanks for your help.
 
Mach1Mark":1ritdq85 said:
Thanks for your Reply. I did loop the two connectors. One plug for the rear backup lights, and the other plug to start the car. I stuck a wire in 1 connector and looped around to the other side of the same plug connector and it did work. Thank you so much.

I've got the T5 transmission in the car. It is hooked up, and it bolted on really nice with the 66 bellhousing and an adaptor plate from NPD. My fabricated, "jig" , adaptor for the 1990. Clutch slave cylinder seems to work good.

I purchase a crossmember from NPD, made by MDL. Nice piece, little more then I wanted to spend, I probably could have made the crossmember but I'm glad I decided to go with MDLs. The shifter fits right into the stock hole in the transmission tunnel. I didn't have to cut any metal, so far, haha...Thanks Modern Drive Line..

Now the drive shaft? I am completely confused what to do. I understand that the stock yoke from the original drive shaft will not work. Can I use the original 66 c4 yoke? I haven't checked,
because I filled the transmission with fluid and I didn't want to fumble around with the original yoke while transmission fluid is pouring out the back of it. Yes, I know, I should have waited to fill it. But, anyway,..my stock c4 6cyl yoke looks a lot smaller.

I acquired an aod yoke some time ago. And it fits right into the T5 transmission. However I don't know what the combination is to get that yoke to bolt on to the stock driveshaft .. My current driveshaft Is for a C4,.. 66 Mustang. 6 cyl.

I did buy another used drive shaft. The gentleman I purchased it from said it was for a 65 Mustang with a 3-speed. He did pull it out of a 65 mustang trunk with a 3speed, however the engine was changed to a none running 302, and the car was a T code c6yl car...However this driveshaft seems to be about three inches shorter. That's odd?

I have two drive shafts, and several U joints.... And I am confused. What do you guys think? What do I do? Please help?

And,..how much play or movement in and out should the yoke installed in the T5 have.Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

On the C4 yoke the answer is maybe many people have successfully used the C4 yoke with the T5'swaps as there is only a very slight difference as the T5 is metric. Your compleate C4 driveshaft should be real close to right lenght and is maybe a bolt in for this swap so try it out. The three speed driveshaft will likely be to way to short. With the car setting level on the ground you will need 3/4 of an inch to 1.5 inches of play or movement with the yoke slid into the trans before bottoming out on the end of the tail housing. When making a custom driveshaft I would set them up with 1 inch of slide. So if you have less than 3/4 inch for movement then the driveshaft needs to be shortened and if you have more than 1.5 inch the shaft will need to be lengthened anything inbetween and your good to go.

On yokes the AOD could work (its metric to) so if it has the right width and same size U Joints as your C4 that's great. Here's an example of a yoke that can be used for a C4, AOD, or T5 (see the below link) it lists all the measurements so check that with your C4 and AOD yokes. Also check the other link below for diamtions of a 1310 U Joint to compare with what you have. Good luck sounds like you made great progress on the T5 swap. (y) :nod:

Yoke for T5, C4, AOD, AODE, and Top Loader 1310 U Joint
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-28- ... 69116.html

Spicer 1310 U Joint
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dana-Spi ... 93579.html
 
Well the stock driveshaft did fit, :beer: I dont believe I have to shorten it either. I feel like an idiot not checking the original driveshaft first. I just assume it wouldn't fit. Well u know what happens when you assume..haha.

I got the driveshaft on and started the car, (it's on jack stands) revved the engine and it sounded like the whole car was about to come apart engine and trans..

Well apparently,...the clutch pressure plate was not centered. So here is the problem, how do I center the pressure plate?

The old style Borg and Baker 3 finger pressure plate does not have holes for dowel pins, the stock bolts, I believe 5/16 bolts fit perfectly into the holes on the 3 finger plate, which centers the plate.

The newer diaphragm style plate has bolt holes that are a little smaller the 3/8, and a little bigger the 5/16. However the bolt pattern for the new pressure plate (9inch 1978 Fairmont) is the exact same as the 1966 136 tooth flywheel bolt pattern and the dowel pins in this flywheel almost line up but off slightly.

Buy the way, the 1986 svo 2.3 liter turbo mustang is the exact same clutch and clutch pressure plate as the 1978 Fairmont 3.3 inline 200 6cyl. Just FYI.

So what do I do? Machine the flywheel to match the clutch pressure plate, where do I get bolts to center the current set up, there is just a slight movement in the bolts (5/16) and the holes in the clutch pressure plate. But enough to cause an alignment issue.

According to the interwebs ARP bolts kit# 150-2201 or Ford N602649-S should fit this application. These bolts are 5/16 and are applicable for the 78 Fairmont and 2.3 turbo. Thoughts?

So the guys that used a newer diagram clutch and pressure plate , what did you do? How did you get it to aligned properly? Again thanks.
 
Mach1Mark":10z15c4b said:
Well the stock driveshaft did fit, :beer: I dont believe I have to shorten it either. I feel like an idiot not checking the original driveshaft first. I just assume it wouldn't fit. Well u know what happens when you assume..haha.

I got the driveshaft on and started the car, (it's on jack stands) revved the engine and it sounded like the whole car was about to come apart engine and trans..

Well apparently,...the clutch pressure plate was not centered. So here is the problem, how do I center the pressure plate?

The old style Borg and Baker 3 finger pressure plate does not have holes for dowel pins, the stock bolts, I believe 5/16 bolts fit perfectly into the holes on the 3 finger plate, which centers the plate.

The newer diaphragm style plate has bolt holes that are a little smaller the 3/8, and a little bigger the 5/16. However the bolt pattern for the new pressure plate (9inch 1978 Fairmont) is the exact same as the 1966 136 tooth flywheel bolt pattern and the dowel pins in this flywheel almost line up but off slightly.

Buy the way, the 1986 svo 2.3 liter turbo mustang is the exact same clutch and clutch pressure plate as the 1978 Fairmont 3.3 inline 200 6cyl. Just FYI.

So what do I do? Machine the flywheel to match the clutch pressure plate, where do I get bolts to center the current set up, there is just a slight movement in the bolts (5/16) and the holes in the clutch pressure plate. But enough to cause an alignment issue.

According to the interwebs ARP bolts kit# 150-2201 or Ford N602649-S should fit this application. These bolts are 5/16 and are applicable for the 78 Fairmont and 2.3 turbo. Thoughts?

So the guys that used a newer diagram clutch and pressure plate , what did you do? How did you get it to aligned properly? Again thanks.
Click to expand...

First off because of the designed fitment you can never use a standard hardware grade 5 or 8 type bolt to mount the flywheel to crankshaft or for the pressure plate mounting to flywheel or you will probably get a vibration problem. The correct chrankshaft flywheel and pressure plate bolts that will fit your stock 1966 flywheel correctly have a special shoulder under the head so as to both securely locate and center the flywheel and pressure plate assemblys. Hope you also used the correct 7/16 fine thread type flywheel mounting bolts (see below for an example) because even though the flywheel is indexed for center on the crankshafts flange you need the shouldered bolts to keep it secured from moving back an forth dew to a sloppy fitting non shouldered bolt.

You will need to use eigher the stock Ford spec pressure plate bolts for mounting (they are 5/16 X 18) or yes you could use the ARP kit 150-2201 (see below link for an example). These unique shouldered bolts fit into presision stepped holes drilled in the flywheel and each one serves as both a locating pin for the pressure plate as well as its attaching hardware. If these stock shouldered bolts don't fit the mounting holes in your your 1978 or other year Diafram pressure plate mounting holes snugly as they do in the stock type 1966 B&B pressure plate (i.e. Without a sloppy fit) you would have to find a competent machine shop that can index your pressure plate and drill it to the 1966 Borgg and Beck three finger bolt patteren and also to its correct diameter hole size so it will fit on the 1966 flywheel, or have the 1966 flywheel correctly drilled so as to fit the pressure plates locating pin holes, or lastly switch to a different or custom flywheel that has all those required features. McCloud clutches used to be able to do all this custom work I used them for many of my projects and making of custom billet flywheels back in my racing days, I don't know if they still offer all these services today but you might call and ask them. Good luck (y) :nod:

ARP Ford 7/16 fine thread X 1 inch long Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts
https://www.ebay.com/p/678133736?ul_ref ... 57ffd277f0

ARP Ford 5/16 X 18 Pressure Plate Bolts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ARP-PRESSU ... 6o&vxp=mtr
 
Again thanks for responding. I knew it would be something simple to stop production on this project, haha. Anyway I'm using the stock flywheel bolts to attach the flywheel to the crank. These bolts are easily obtained. Thanks for the "warning" , I did almost use the grade 8 bolts from HD. Haha.

I ordered the pressure plate Ford stock bolts from autozone, for the ford Fairmont, of course they wont be available for a few days.. I also ordered the Apr bolts from Pep boys. So we will see. If that doesn't work, I will either machine the flywheel for 3/8 bolt and pins, or go with the Borg and baker 3finger clutch.

Again thanks for ur help! (y)
 
While you have it apart, it be a good idea to check that the crankshaft pilot bearing to input shaft is not to sloppy, letting the disk wing around off center... That can also cause a imbalance.
 
I never thought about the bearing being off center. Because the input shaft does have side to side movement. Not in and out movement. I will check that. . Thanks for your advice...if anyone has any opinions or comments, please,.. I want them. Thank you
 
What drag-200stang is talking about is the input shaft Pilot Bushing that is installed in the crankshaft (see the below link for an example). Did you install one of those before you put the clutch and pressure plate on? Good luck (y) :nod:

Input Shaft Pilot Bushing (this might not be the right part number for a 200)
https://www.carid.com/1967-ford-mustang ... ntsubmodel[]=TRANSMISSION|Standard+%28Manual%29
 
I test fit the bearing on the shaft before installing in the car, no play, tight fitting. When I installed the bearing in the car, inside the crank, tight fit, all way the flush. I dont think it's the bearing.

Still waiting for bolts. But apparently here in the great city of clt. No one carries these bolts, including NPD. So waiting for the bolts to come in from autozone and pepboys. If they dont work, I can either by the ridiculous priced diaphragm style clutch and pressure clutch plate, from MDL, or go with the old three-finger Borg & Beck Style. Or have it machined. I'm hoping the bolts will fit.

Again thanks for the replies.
 
Ok very short post this time.

Got bolts. Still slop in bolts to bolt holes. Flex plate is 5/16 bolt holes, stock bolts are 5/16, pressureplate bolt holes are 3/8. Put it all together, lots of grinding noise. Transmission? Pressure plate? Engage clutch, grinding stops.

Comments , suggestions, even rude statements are welcome. Sarcasm is totallorated. At wits end...Thanks for your help. :banghead:
 
Well that's not good 3/8 inch holes in the pressure plate isn't going to work that's way to sloppy of a fit for the 5/16 inch shouldered bolts. You will need to find another pressure plate with the correct 5/16 size holes unless you can find a machine shop that could redrill pressure plate to the size that's on your 9 inch Borg and Beck pressure plate or the flywheel gets redrilled to use a 3/8 inch shouldered bolt. :unsure: so if you step on the clutch dose all this the grinding stop? If that is what's happening then yes it's in the transmission and you likely have a front bearing (input shaft) that's bad. Is this a used trans of unknown origins you picked up? :nod:
 
Thanks for the reply,.. I order a new set of 3/8 clutch pressure plate bolts. I'm going to have a machine shop redrill the flex plate to the 3/8 bolts, if the cost is to high or cant be done, I'm going to purchase a 66 three speed clutch set with 3 fingers and 5/16 holes, but I want to stay with the diaphragm style clutch set.

As far as the grinding in the transmission,.... I purchased a used T5 and It turned smooth as silk, no grinding . It is a 95, so I purchased a shorter shaft from ebay.and installed it myself. Still no grinding, smooth turning. So who knows?

I purchased another used 95 T5 and installed the new front shorter shaft from the other transmission to this one... So as soon as I get the bolts figured out,.. I'm going to install this transmission.

If I get it all working and it drives smooth, I'll probably buy a new T5 transmission. But let's see what happens,

Again thanks for any responses, all comments accepted.
 
3?
If any R the World Class I take it
8^ )
 
3?
If any R the World Class I take it

... to note:

Fox' T5's are ALL world class after @ 1984. ATF vs 90W internals. ... Many cheap broken 'core's available from exuberant drivers. Prices have come way down as Tremec sell and not suitable for modern extreme HP setups. Best T5's ' 'Z rated 'are more expensive to fix.

have fun

Supecharged 5.0 'core' :
.

.

.
 
Well, now that I'm thinking about it should I go with the old style 66 3 speed Borg & Beck 3 finger clutch plate set? I have hydraulic slave cylinder set up, which seems to be working good oh,... that's the reason why I went with the diaphragm style. But now thinking about it Should I stick with the three-finger Borg & Beck old 66 three-finger style? I understand the three-finger style is a little harder on the knees and feet. Oh,... But is it? Any comments suggestions is encouraged thank you
 
By the way, power band, yes as soon as I get one of these things to work I will sell the other transmission. If I buy a new one I will sell another. I have two Transmissions T5 world class 1995. I don't think there's anything wrong with either transmission. I seriously think it's the 5/16 bolt in the flexplate to attach to 3/8 bolt hole the clutch pressure plate ... both transmission turn smooth and no grinding
 
Mach1Mark:2eag1krk said:
Well, now that I'm thinking about it should I go with the old style 66 3 speed Borg & Beck 3 finger clutch plate set? I have hydraulic slave cylinder set up, which seems to be working good oh,... that's the reason why I went with the diaphragm style. But now thinking about it Should I stick with the three-finger Borg & Beck old 66 three-finger style? I understand the three-finger style is a little harder on the knees and feet. Oh,... But is it? Any comments suggestions is encouraged thank you
Click to expand...

Over the years the vast majority of my stick / manual trans cars and trucks have had the Borg and Beck three finger clutches. They do take a little more pedal effort, however I never though it was-all that bad. Plus with your hydraulic throw out bearing that should greatly reduce the effort required to push it. Also I think you may have choosen or been given the wrong year Diafram pressure plate. I am sure there is one that would bolt up correctly to your 1966 9 inch flywheel without any Mod's, Other site members have already done Diafram clutch swaps on the 9 inch flywheels. In any case getting a pressure plate that fits your flywheel correctly should be much easier and faster then having to machine the parts into a hybread unit. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
Mach1Mark":1udetyva said:
...yes...I will sell the other transmission. If I buy a new one I will sell another. I have two Transmissions T5 world class 1995. I don't think there's anything wrong with either transmission. I seriously think it's the 5/16 bolt in the flexplate to attach to 3/8 bolt hole the clutch pressure plate ... both transmission turn smooth and no grinding
Click to expand...
viewforum.php?f=86
several here are lookin
 
Well guys, I guess I got it in and drove it.

I purchased a stock 3 finger (long.finger) style 66 clutch plate system from autozone,.. not the way I wanted to go, but the 5/16 self centering bolts worked with the pressure plate against the stock 136 tooth flywheel. Installed the transmission and drove a few times around the block.

I still feel a little shimming, dont know what it could be, maybe the flywheel is out a balance, or the drive shaft,. but no grinding or rubbing. Shifts good.

Anyway I'm going to drive untll it blows up, haha.

Id like to thank everyone for there help, comments and suggestions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
All Small Six Please help! What parts needed? 83’Bigbell 3.3l mating up to ‘66 mustang C4 200L6
Replies
10
Views
468
78_200_C4
7
akidwithacar
All Small Six 65 Mustang 200ci Lower Clutch Rod ID help
Replies
5
Views
379
powerband
powerband
bubba22349
All Small Six 1965 Ford Mustang 200 Six Clutch Linkage Parts I.D. Help Needed!
Replies
13
Views
1K
powerband
powerband
S
All Small Six 1968 Mustang 200 water pump leak
Replies
2
Views
397
alwill923
A
H
200ci improving a 200 overseas
Replies
7
Views
747
aussie7mains
aussie7mains
Back
Top