All Small Six The 'Ideal' 200 Built By Committee

This relates to all small sixes
1966Mustang

1966Mustang

ALL THE THINGS
Staff member
Subscriber
  • I picked up a 1978 200 a while ago, for no other purpose other than I was bored and needed a road-trip to New Jersey.
  • The head has been cleaned and no cracks found. It is sitting on a shelf, partially pocket ported ... (for sale soon)
  • The block has not been inspected yet. It is sitting on an engine stand. Assume it's good and can be bored.
  • Also assume it's going in my 65 Mustang Coupe. My HP goal is... about 400ish
  • Reply with your suggestions/ideas on the Carb/EFI, Ignition, Pistons, Cam, AL Head?, Tranny, Reardiff, Exhaust, Turbo???
  • Upvote the replies you like, downvote the ones you don't (up/down arrows on the right of the replies).
  • Let's have some fun with this!
As 'decisions' are made, they'll be posted here, subject to change.

Added Google Sheet Feb 9, 2020 for P/Ns and Purchasing Dept. Progress...
docs.google.com

200 Built By Committee

BOM Seq,Order By Date,Part Desc,Part Num,Vendor,SuggestedBy,ItemURL,Notes,Contact,Email,QuoteNum,QuoteDate,QtyOrdered,Price,Total,Date Ordered,Date Received,Date Delta Days 10,BLOCK RELATED 10.1,200CID Block D8BE,D8BE,Craigslist...,Craigslist Bought,1,$80.00,$80.00 10.11,3/1/2021,Dual Roller Tim...
docs.google.com docs.google.com

Mostly Decided:
  1. Holley Super Sniper 4150 650HP PART# PART# 550-520 - https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_4bbl_tbi_kits/parts/550-520
    1. Sniper ignition, etc
  2. VI AL Head #10269 Ported - https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/deposit-only-aluminum-head-package
  3. Extended Valve Stems +.30 - re note to Matt @ VI stem add +.30 to length as default
    1. SI
    2. Manley
  4. 1300909705/177210 BW Airwerks Turbo S300SX-E 8378 61.44mm T4 .88 AR Journal bearing
  5. F38-Black-14.5psi - Tial F38 38mm Wastegate Black 14.5psi
  6. QBOV-Black-11psi-AL - Tial Q BOV 50mm 11psi
  7. Camshaft - Solid-Lifter Cam CompCams Card 68362
  8. Lifters - Oil Hole Solid Lifters CompCams SKU 817-12
  9. Roller Rockers - RAU - F-44RA & F-44RRA? - http://rockerarms.com/pages/rollerfordcad.html
  10. Adjustable Timing Gear Set - PART# JPP-200-DRC - https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/dual-roller-timing-chain-set-170-200ci
Developing and Can-Do:
  1. Connecting Rods - Pauter Engineering FOR-235-565-1248F
  2. Custom forged 2618 alloy pistons - http://racetecpistons.com/
To be Developed or Figured on:
  1. Equal Length Header/T4 Collector
  2. Harmonic Balancer / Damper
    1. http://www.atiracing.com/contact/contactati.htm
    2. B-H-J - Spoke with Chris, good conversation
    3. Fluidamper contacted - nope
    4. ATI - too much normal stuff to do custom.
  3. Oil Pump
    1. Contacting Pauter on oil pump mods.
    2. 250CID Pump, Adapter and drive from D2S Racing Products Inc. ( @drag-200stang )
  4. Oil Pan
    1. Canton?
    2. Modify stock pan, develop windage kit

Added Jan 29,2021 7PM

Vendors Contacted/Emailed:

Magnum Machine Inc.
https://www.magnummachineincorporated.com
Magnum Machine Inc.
921 Business Park Dr
Chesapeake, VA 23320
Telephone: (757) 424-1440
FAX: (757) 424-6210
Owner says- "No prob, I like the oddball builds"

Rocker Arms Unlimited - https://rockerarms.com
16575 Clear Creek Rd.
Redding, CA. 96001
Tel: 530-242-1316
Fax: 530-242-1332
Email: rockerarms@rockerarms.com
re: @bubba22349 's suggestion on roller rocker availability, made in usa

Pauter Machine - https://pauter.com
Don Pauter
367 Zenith Street
Chula Vista, CA 91911
Tel: 619-422-5384
Fax: 619-422-1924
Email: info@pauter.com
Custom Connecting Rods - FOR-235-565-1248F
And oil pumps...
https://pauter.com/parts/oil-pumps/
contacting about HV 200 oil pump mods.

RaceTec Pistons - https://RaceTecPistons.com
Randy Gillis
15681 Computer Lane
Huntington Beach, Ca 92649
Tel: 714-903-4362
Fax: 714-891-0190

CAA Racing Products/Protohawk (torque-plates/other engineering)
https://www.protohawk.com/ https://ccaracing.com/
Michael Gallo
- offered to sanity check our torque plate. because... no one wants to wreck a chunk of stock :D - which is awfully gracious of the owner.
- Makes insert bushings too: https://ccaracing.com/engine-block-tooling/
 
Last edited:
Sort by date Sort by votes
While I have this block mostly bare - are there any pictures we need to make of it - for this or other doumentation or archival purposes?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I have one of Does10s headers and can say that it would work with the log head but not with the CI head. The turbo and downpipe would hit the intake manifold. I had to have it modified on mine.

BEFORE
QSBR1509.JPG


AFTER:
IMG_5705.JPG
 

Attachments

  • QSBR1509.JPG
    QSBR1509.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 4
Upvote 0 Downvote
Going to make an article about this topic - but... on the crank lobes, there are some nasty sharps. Should I clean those up?

20210201_191558.jpg 20210201_191622.jpg
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
Yes. Clean up all chards and casting lines on the crank and anywhere in or on the block.
I used a die grinder with a conical round tip burr for the block and finished with sandpaper rolls

You might want to semi polish the throws and counterweights on the crank to minimize oil retention and windage friction.
A disk grinder should make a good start on the crank polishing finished with sand paper rolls.
Just be sure to wrap the rod and main journals with something substantial for protection.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
chamfered, will clean up tomorrow and start on the crank. Ever wondered why you end up bleeding every time you reach down to put in a bolt or check your oil? Evidently, secondary operations were value-engineered out of the foundry. I think the machinist handling this thing will think of you more as a craftsman than a inline six hack.

20210202_010459.jpg20210202_010507.jpg20210202_002746.jpg20210202_010403.jpg
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
pmuller9 said:
Looking good!
Did you find any sand/iron inside the block corners or just plain lumps on the surface of the crankcase?
Click to expand...
Mostly just casting lines/flash - no clumps of petrified sand casting - ran my fingers up around the deep corners and felt nothing.
I have a little inspection camera I might run down the sides of the water jackets.
Should I just pop all of the freeze plugs?

I have a Foredom tool - like a big flexshafted dremel - with various stones and burrs to do some more touch up.

I would much rather be grinding than the incessant Zoom meetings that work is foisting upon me.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Yes, remove all freeze plugs and all oil passage plugs.
Be sure to keep track of where the oil passage plugs came from.

This is a lot more fun than zoom meetings.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Before I pull all the big plugs - I was wondering if there's any benefit to filling the water jacket with evapo-rust for a couple of days... I suppose the machine shop can just dunk it in whatever solution to do that though.

On second thought - I don't have any evapo-rust on hand, and would likely make a bigger mess than what I've got going on already :D
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
If you wanted while your cleaning and grinding on the crankshaft you could knife edge the counter weights too.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Yes, Remove all raised lumps on the outer surface of the counterweights and throws and round off the surfaces for the least amount of drag
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top