This will be fun
- Thread starter Ikosix
- Start date
So now with the ring gap correct, pushrods ordered, and the motor back in its cradle I’ll throw a blanket over it for a couple weeks.
During this time I’ve got a mostly stock 300 I need to put in my bronco because the old 302 has a rod knocking…but that’s for another post.
During this time I’ve got a mostly stock 300 I need to put in my bronco because the old 302 has a rod knocking…but that’s for another post.
I’m glad to be back on the project after some time away. This week I plan to put the motor in the truck(69 f100). The front clip is off so I’m going to work on getting that on so I can begin fabbing an upper intake, turbo and inter cooler pipe. Any design do’s and don’ts are much appreciated. Also I am wondering what throttle body would be ideal. I’m thinking of one off of a 90s 5.0, 5.8 with a single plate.
If anyone has put an I.C. In a bump what did you use?
If anyone has put an I.C. In a bump what did you use?
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I’m glad to be back on the project after some time away. This week I plan to put the motor in the truck(69 f100). The front clip is off so I’m going to work on getting that on so I can begin fabbing an upper intake, turbo and inter cooler pipe. Any design do’s and don’ts are much appreciated. Also I am wondering what throttle body would be ideal. I’m thinking of one off of a 90s 5.0, 5.8 with a single plate.
If anyone has put an I.C. In a bump what did you use?
Looking good!
As far as an Intercooler goes - and I'm working on a dent not a bump - I'm looking at using a an air to water Intercooler instead of an air to air. There isn't a ton of room between the core support and the backside of the grill inserts, and I don't want to trim the inserts or hood latch, so I figure it's going to be a lot easier to fit the air/water Radiator in there than an air/air. Then that way, you have more flexibility on where to put the actual Intercooler. But this is all theoretical at the moment, I haven't done it yet.
Thanks jgvac! I’m hoping that I can make this IC work. I have one left over from a swap I did on my 250. Is there a benifit to using a water to air other than space saving?
Also I’m thinking about using this throttle body for my intake build. I believe it’s a 70mm which I need to make sure if this is acceptable. It’s a 4.6 ford unit.
Also I’m thinking about using this throttle body for my intake build. I believe it’s a 70mm which I need to make sure if this is acceptable. It’s a 4.6 ford unit.
Mocked up this Ecoboost cooler. The core is 2 1/2” thick by 9 1/2” tall. had to remove hood latch/catch brace and bulge out the grill a bit to fit it in my 67 F100. Truck is mostly apart right now and unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of it in there. The tanks are approximately 3 3/8” thick and that may have been what was hitting the grill.
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Water to air is going to be a more thermally efficient Intercooler, due to water having a much higher heat transfer coefficient than air, and it will have a smaller pressure loss than an air/air. At the power levels we're dealing with I'm not sure how impactful the thermal efficiency will be, for me it's mostly packaging of both the Radiator and the IC.
This is the company I've been looking at for the air/water. They've got a bunch of configurations of IC, plus they sell the radiators and pumps separately or in a kit.
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As shown in post 54 here, I like the junkyard 5.0 throttle body for about $20. It's 64 mm and came with the TPS and Idle Air Control. If your IC has 2.5" connections then there's more restriction there than at the TB. The bigger TB would help on a NA application, but with boost the smaller one should be fine.
Ok great thanks. So you think a 64mm will work for me? The IC flanges are 3.5”
There is even less room for an IC in a bump than a dent and even less in a 67-69 bump because of the grille shapes. I vote for water to air and especially if you don't have a/c, as the IC radiator should fit well exactly where the a/c condenser would.
If not, I have thought of plumbing the boost pipes through the fenderwell and putting the IC right behind the core support headlight area and cutting out the support for airflow. Trying to protect the IC from road debris thrown off the tire might be a problem...
If not, I have thought of plumbing the boost pipes through the fenderwell and putting the IC right behind the core support headlight area and cutting out the support for airflow. Trying to protect the IC from road debris thrown off the tire might be a problem...
It’s a HX35. I think Inducer: 54mm Exducer: 83mm.
I'm asking the outlet size, not the compressor wheel size. Within the HX35 series I think there can be some variations of the outlet.
Anyway, there's not much point in having a throttle body larger than the ID of the turbo outlet. The 5.0 TB at 64mm is 2.55" so if the turbo outlet is about 2.5" this TB should be fine.
I’m working on getting front fender aprons and core support on so I can begin to mockup the intake/turbo and associated piping. I need to order the wastegate, blow off and intercooler as soon as I’ve found what’s best. Once the radiator is in I am gonna start it up and break in the cam with an old carb and distributor.Still having fun
It’s an aftermarket kit I put on years back when I did the drop beam. I drove it for 3 years thataway. Stops good.
Thanks to Pmuller for wisdom on choosing the correct W.G. B.O.V. and throttle-body.
I’m going (in order) 40mm, 50mm, 65mm. I haven’t chosen a specific brand yet but am leaning towards Turbosmart or Precision Turbo on the WG and BOV(any opinions are welcome). As far as the TB I’ve not a clue yet but I think something that will jive with the Holley system easily is important.
I picked this stainless pipe up cheap from my sons friend. It’s leftover from a project he did. It’s 2.5” id with a .050” thick wall. I’m not sure if it’ll work for hotside pipe or if I’ll need it but for the cold side I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. It’s about the same size as the compressor outlet and TB I’ve chosen. Thoughts?
If it won’t work for my project maybe someone here can make use of it.
Happy Saturday!!
I’m going (in order) 40mm, 50mm, 65mm. I haven’t chosen a specific brand yet but am leaning towards Turbosmart or Precision Turbo on the WG and BOV(any opinions are welcome). As far as the TB I’ve not a clue yet but I think something that will jive with the Holley system easily is important.
I picked this stainless pipe up cheap from my sons friend. It’s leftover from a project he did. It’s 2.5” id with a .050” thick wall. I’m not sure if it’ll work for hotside pipe or if I’ll need it but for the cold side I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. It’s about the same size as the compressor outlet and TB I’ve chosen. Thoughts?
If it won’t work for my project maybe someone here can make use of it.
Happy Saturday!!
