This will be fun
- Thread starter Ikosix
- Start date
Try it again.
The dial indicator is showing .005" instead of .050"
You zero the dial indicator when the intake cam lobe peak is facing away from the lifter which when the exhaust lifter just begins to open.
Put the exhaust lifter in and turn the crankshaft clockwise until it just begins to lift, then zero the dial indicator.
Then turn the crank clockwise until the intake lifter shows .050" on you dial indictor which is on the opposite side of the dial from zero.
The dial indicator is showing .005" instead of .050"
You zero the dial indicator when the intake cam lobe peak is facing away from the lifter which when the exhaust lifter just begins to open.
Put the exhaust lifter in and turn the crankshaft clockwise until it just begins to lift, then zero the dial indicator.
Then turn the crank clockwise until the intake lifter shows .050" on you dial indictor which is on the opposite side of the dial from zero.
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Ok
I ran through crowers procedure which is much the same as yours. The numbers seem close. Also my redneck engineering is usually
+\- 2 degrees. Kidding aside I did run through them several times until I got repeated results.
Thank you for being patient with me.
I ran through crowers procedure which is much the same as yours. The numbers seem close. Also my redneck engineering is usually
+\- 2 degrees. Kidding aside I did run through them several times until I got repeated results.
Thank you for being patient with me.
You are doing great.
According to the last set of readings you took, the cam is about as close as you can get to the cam card.
Get the ignition timing mark zeroed in at TDC and call it good.
Your next adventure is determining the length of the pushrods.
I hope you are having fun.
I almost forgot to ask you.
What did you set the piston ring gaps at?
According to the last set of readings you took, the cam is about as close as you can get to the cam card.
Get the ignition timing mark zeroed in at TDC and call it good.
Your next adventure is determining the length of the pushrods.
I hope you are having fun.
I almost forgot to ask you.
What did you set the piston ring gaps at?
Yep.
You may need longer pushrods to get the rocker geometry correct.
Also know that the stock pushrods bend easily and should be replaced.
Ring gap should be .022. I thought it was .004 but it’s .0055/ inch of bore. I remember asking the machinist to gap the rings but didn’t verify. He has sold out and retired. I got a ring set of 8 with the pistons and checked the leftover two. They are very close. I may pull the head and see if I can check gap with a set of orifice bits. First I’m going to measure the pushrods so I can get them ordered.
I’m learning. Next time ill know better
I’m learning. Next time ill know better
You are ready!
What are you going to do for a lifter as part of the adjustment process.
Yes
Is the plunger up against the retaining clip or down .060” to.075” for the preload distance?
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It’s good as is.
Just add the .060” to .075” preload to the pushrod measurement.
I will be interested to see what you get for a pattern across the valve stem.
You got it. I’ll send pictures of my results.
I have decided I’m definitely gonna put this motor in my F100.
I’m thinking ahead to start up. Do you think starting it up for break-in with an intake and carb would be wise? I have a sniper 2300 or Holley 390 and a couple different intakes (Aussie 2 barrel or offy dual port). Also I have a dui distributor. Im putting a different 300 in my bronco so I have the parts available. I just wasn’t sure how complicated or time consuming to get it running with the Holley EFI system and ignition and turbo would be. Or if I even need to start it up any time soon.
I have decided I’m definitely gonna put this motor in my F100.
I’m thinking ahead to start up. Do you think starting it up for break-in with an intake and carb would be wise? I have a sniper 2300 or Holley 390 and a couple different intakes (Aussie 2 barrel or offy dual port). Also I have a dui distributor. Im putting a different 300 in my bronco so I have the parts available. I just wasn’t sure how complicated or time consuming to get it running with the Holley EFI system and ignition and turbo would be. Or if I even need to start it up any time soon.
I think you would have better piece of mind if you broke the engine in before installing the Holley Terminator X.
This way you can take your time setting up the Term X system at whatever engine rpm is needed.
I would keep it simple and use the Holley 390, Offy DP and the DUI
This way you can take your time setting up the Term X system at whatever engine rpm is needed.
I would keep it simple and use the Holley 390, Offy DP and the DUI
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