Too hot a coil? Is this possible?

[Frankenstang]

Congrats! Very 8) ... at least soon to be much 8) 8) 8) and like your buddy said, I'll bet you'll be blown away with the improved performance...especially if you've gone a while w/o it. Is that an LOM as Mustangsix mentioned above...aren't they vacuum advance only? (maybe you meant vacuum not 'mechanical'). If so, it might be worthwhile to swap in a new SCV while you're at it (if you are running a stock LOM) to be sure you're getting a good strong signal for advance. They can usually be changed out w/o even removing the carb...unless you put a new one on recently. Just a maintenance suggestion cause the SCV can wear out or fail, or you could just test the signal at the distributor port on the carb to make sure it's working okay, but it sounds like you nearly got it whipped.

 

[LaGrasta]

I understand it to be both vacuum and mechanical advance. The dizzy is to arrive today so I should know by day's end!

 

[CobraSix]

What do you know...I can be right from time to time...

Let us know when you confirm.

 

[Frankenstang]

I understand it to be both vacuum and mechanical advance. The dizzy is to arrive today so I should know by day's end!

Yeah you'll be able to confirm it then, but that's why I was curious if it was a load-o...AFAIK all 6cyl load-o's were vacuum only...but w/ford I've learned to never say never.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mum ... index.html
"With an Autolite V-8 single-point distributor, vacuum and centrifugal advance units work seamlessly together, with the vacuum advance handing off to the centrifugal advance as rpm increases. The Autolite Loadomatic doesn't have a centrifugal advance, but instead uses only a vacuum advance that moves the breaker plate depending upon engine load, throttle position, and manifold vacuum. When the vacuum advance goes to work, it moves the breaker plate counterclockwise to advance the spark. Two retard springs move the breaker plate clockwise to retard the spark. Vacuum advance duration depends on how long manifold vacuum is applied to the diaphragm."

I don't think this is mentioned in the ci tech article, and maybe cause there are some 6cyl versions that are both
Eh...your scv is probably good anyway, I think main prob that ever comes up is a 'stuck' one....again that's if you even have a scv/load-o (IDK much about the 1940 and pre-65 combos)...sorry, don't mean to give you too much to think about, just that I've heard folks in the past confuse the breaker plate return/retard springs (designed to work against vacuum) for a component of 'mechanical' advance mechanism. Like you said though you'll know soon enough

 

[LaGrasta]

okay, okay, How do I stab the dizzy please? Seems simple, but no success.
I took pictures to ensure proper line-up. I inserted the shaft and it aligned correctly, then pushed a bit and the gear engaged as the dizzy slid deeper, then it stopped. I can't seem to push it in the last 1/2 inch. I compared the old to the new and it's an exact match.

 

[wallaka]

Turn your oil pump shaft with a socket and extension.

 

[rbohm]

Turn your oil pump shaft with a socket and extension.

8) or tap the engine over while holding the distributor down.

 

[LaGrasta]

I had to cut the shaft down by a 1/4" or so as it didn't recess into the new dizzy as much as the old, thus not allowing it to seat fully. Once I measured the difference and trimmed it, the dizzy dropped into place.
With the new dizzy now installed I repeated my test of watching the timing mark as I revved the engine. Once again, it did not move (advance) as the engine raced. What gives?

 

[MustangSix]

Again, if its a LOM and the vacuum system has failed at some point, no advance.

 

[LaGrasta]

Again, if its a LOM and the vacuum system has failed at some point, no advance.

the new dizzy included a new diaphram so that would rule this out. No?

 

[wallaka]

Maybe your SCV is messed up.

 

[CobraSix]

Yup, sounds like the SCV.

Try to temporarily hook up the dizzy to a manifold vacuum port (if your carb has a non-ported vacuum somewhere)

Really sounds like you had a comedy of problems all at once. Or likely your vacuum wasn't working for awhile and when the mechanical stopped working, that's when the overheating started.

 

[LaGrasta]

yup, it's my carb (Holley 1940). I found out last night it isn't pulling a vacuum on the dizzy line for some reason. God knows how long that's been clogged. The tube is clear, but internally the carb must be blocked with debris. Here comes a rebuild unless someone has a rebuilt 1940 sitting on a shelf they don't need…

I know what you're thinking, swap the carb to something different. I don't want to for two reasons, 1) I'm broke, haven't worked in a half a year (career details, http://www.linkedin.com/in/lagrasta), 2) My entire engine bay is plumbed with hard lines and I like the way it looks. Another 1940 will bolt right up.

 

[wallaka]

I'm running a 1940, at least until the EFI is sorted out...it just works. Never had a problem with it.

 

[MustangSix]

you might be able to clear that passage with a piece of piano wire or guitar string.

 

[LaGrasta]

Over the past 7 years, I've had great success with my 1940. I'll clean it out, rebuild it and see where I'm at.

 

[LaGrasta]

I added an SCV and now the timing mark correctly advances when the engine is revved, however the car still ran over 200° on a 40 mile run yesterday on the freeway doing 70mph.

Can my 52v coil be too hot as my last one was only 40v?

 

[Lazy JW]

......
Can my 52v coil be too hot as my last one was only 40v?

Nope.

 

[wallaka]

Not possible to have 'too hot' of a coil.

 

[64 200 ranchero]

Is it boiling over? What are the symptoms of the overheating?

NEW:
pump
aluminum radiator
stat
cap, with built-in thermometer
upper/lower hose
rebuilt head
in-line tranny cooler

After years of my stock gauge showing 1/4 readings, it now continues to rise to 1/2 and past. If I reach my freeway destination within about 15 miles, exiting the freeway and slowing through city streets, the gauge, using the electric fan lowers the gauge back to 1/4.
If I remain on the freeway past 15 miles, even the electric fan doesn't help lower the temp much if the ambient air is even slightly warm. My new thermometer cap confirms temps of about 230 at stock gauge 1/2 reading. Many a day in SoCal 100° I exiting the freeway with the electric fan running full blast and the heater on full blast as well.
In spite of being fairly slow and having a flat spot after idle, the car runs super, really super. I feel like I could drive to Phoenix and back if I didn't keep staring at the temp gauge!

i had similar problems, i think it would be best if you put the fan in back of the radiator, i have a low profile fan im selling however not electric but it might work, put up a pic of the clearence between your radiator and pullys