trouble with upgrades

[Anonymous]

i put the extended campackage with the 264cam and then i also got a 2v holley/webber carb...

well the mechanic is having trouble tuning it to tweek the full power out fo the stang
any sugestions??
(as of now it runs but you put it in gear and then it stalls)

 

[gtm1086]

Vacuum leak?

 

[mraley]

I had some issues with my H/W when It was first installed. This sounds harsh, but I'd junk the H/W for a Holley 350 or 500. It is much easier to work on and you'll have less headaches. For some reason, it takes a more experienced mechanic to properly tune the H/W. That's the issue I ran into. Just my 2 cents worth...Michael

 

[Anonymous]

lol thanks... well i bought it and am tight on money and i picked that to run my set up so im stuck with it...

anyone got good tuning advice for the holley/webbers??

 

[jamyers]

Have you read this thread? http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

What jets are in it? I highly recommend starting with the six-cylinder jets in the first post and going from there.

 

[cfmustang]

Not that I am an expert, by any means, but I have had quite a bit of experience with the H/W 32/36 and now the 38.

Before you start to tune the Webers correctly, you HAVE to make sure that the idle is turned down low enough that you are not exposing the primary port at idle. In other words, if the idle is turned too high, you are not running through the idle port alone, but also through the primary port. If you are trying to tune it this way, you will never get it set right no matter how you jet it or fiddle with the mixture screws. The symptoms will be rough idle and stalling in gear because you will be running overly rich.

Trust me on this one. This is where most people seem to have their problems... It sure was part of mine.

Verify if you are running rich or lean.

To see if you are lean, partially cover up the top of the carb. This is limiting the amount of air into the carb. If this makes it run better, you are running too lean. To see if you are too rich, create a vacuum leak below the carb. That is adding additional air to the mixture. If that causes it to run better, you are too rich.

 

[MercuryMarc]

I think Chris has given excellent advice.
I am a carb ultranovice but managed to rebuild 3 carbs and actually get them running reasonably well - mostly with the help of the fine folks on this forum and some other internet resources.

Here is what has worked for me:

1. Start the car in park, and block the wheels, and loosen the idle speed screw as much as possible without stalling If you stall, then tightnen the idle screw the smallest amount to keep the car running after restart.

2. Make sure the choke is competely open (vertical) before attempting to tune the idle mixture screw- by warming the car up and/or keeping the choke plates open with wire.

3. Then adjust the idle mixture screw to get the best RPM (I have also been told you can adjust to get the highest manifold vacuum if you have a gauge).

4. Then set the idle speed screw to get the proper idle RPM

5. After this is set then set the choke. Wait until he car is cold and see if the choke plates are closed. If not, then rotate the choke housing until the plates just close. Warm up the car and make sure that after a few mintues the choke -plates are completely open (verticle). If not, then rotate the choke housing until the plates are fully open when warm. Then let the care cool (overnight) and try the whole process again. Once the choke is set properly, adjust the fast idle speed screw so that the car does not stall when started up cold. I lower the fast idle speed a little every night until I find that the car stalls when cold, then I tighten the screw just a little. Otherwise I screech the tires coming out of my garage in reverse on cold mornings...

This process seems to work for me. Good Luck!