Update on the Turbo Experiment.

G

George

Well-known member
G,day.

I have finally driven the semi completed project and am please with response and power of the engine. By going EFI it has totally change the driverbility, response and power. The tuning of the ignition and fuel maps was done on the road. The fuel map was easy using a good quality oxy sensor I just made sure it remained on the rich side. I might give it a proper dyno later after I add the intercooler. Positive boost now starts at just over 2000RPM and goes bananas at 3000. I have set the boost to 8PSI and the redline (fuel cut) to 5500. On the road, giving it stick in second gear does one of two things - 1 starts wheel spinning at 80klm = very nice! -or 2 the auto starts slipping and jolting = not nice. I have the boys from A-Z automotive on the case building me a C4 for the job. Stall converter selection is still undecided with 2500 looking as the favorite.

I would like to know if anyone has tried a cam similar to mine in a turbo engine. I ended up with this cam by mistake…Misunderstanding between Wade cams and myself... My fault! The cam has a fairly rough idle but still has heaps of power down low. I used this cam as an experiment to see how it would work.
CAM SPECS ARE:

DURATION = 291 VALVE LIFT = .0512 PHASE = 112 DURATION @050 = 222

Wade P/N 1069-12

One thing I can say for sure.. Ford sixes LOVE being blown!!

Picture of the nasty engine bay. No attention to detail.
(If you look closely you will see a milkshake cup)

sideview.jpg
 
Is that a .70 compressor housing? Please keep us updated, I've got the same turbo for my project.

db
 
I am curious about your cam. I dont profess to be an expert (I am curious) I thought a Turbo prefered a near stock cam with not too much overlap for max cylinder filling.
Did you say 112 dur at 50.
 
Hi,

When was the last time someone asked a turbo "what cam do you like?" :)

You are right, everything I have read states not to use a big cam. The specs I posted are of the printout that Wade gave me with the cam.
The cam may not be suited for a turbo in principle, but on the road its a diferent story. The engine is very responsive and revs like a hell straight to the 5500 cutout. First gear is totaly usless due to wheelspin.
Should I increase my redline? The engine is still pulling hard at 5500. Or do I keep it low and make it last a bit longer?

The only worry I have is if I use higher boost, will inlet charge blow through into the exhaust causing a meltdown? We will see!

I will eventually change that cam to a wade 242A spec.

I actually didn't go to work today just to cain the corty - As the Ford commercial says "Can't get enough of this" Boost that is.

** I did the right thing for once! I removed the milkshake and added an air cleaner.

BOOOOOST!
 
George,
I had people tell me the same thing with my 302 twin turbo v8 Mustang.
All of them suggested 114 degree centerlines and under 220 degrees duration at .050" lift.
Problem with that was my dyno program was telling me that I was giving up substantial torque from 3200 rpm and up. Like 60+ Ft lbs and over 40 hp.
I decided to try what my program suggested and Boy was I glad I did!
The only draw back I have seem is now my car acts like it has a big Kick-Ass switch on it. Under 3200 its off, but once you hit 3200 it turns on and Kicks Ass! Usually in a very noticable way like leaving two solid 4ft tall clouds of white smoke exploding out of the wheel wells until I lift!
If you can find the information that the quick turbocharged drag racers use look at their duration and centerline figures. Figures like 240 degrees of duration and 110-112 degree centerline!
What I see is that this moves the power band up somewhat, but more importently it makes the band wider. So instead of peaking at 3600-3800 it makes about the same hp/tq at this point but peaks at 4200-4400 and keeps on pulling until 6000 instead of running out of steam at 5200.
Once you have tried a cam like this I doubt if you would be happy with a smaller one, especially since you will give up so much top end.
BigTorque
 
Incredible.
But like you both said getting all that massive power (under 80 kph) to the ground can be a problem on its own. Probably the differences with cam are only going to be noticed once those wheel can be kept in contact with the road. Id be happy with either.
Enjoy?
 
Just another thought. As retaining cylinder pressure (not to much overlap) does seem to have some good logic behind it for a turbo (to keep some efficiency too). probably better to go wide on lobe sep 114 and not too much on duration.
Those turbo drag cars dont care at all about fuel for cruising.
 
Hi Tim,

Too much wheelspin can never be a problem..Not for this project anyway.
On the topic of fuel economy..I cannot belive how economical my garbage is. I put $30.00 of Optimax in and drove it (HARD!!) all day and still had 1/4 tank left. I am now a converted EFI man and will never go back to carbies! I have gained masive amouts of power on this engine using the same boost as the carb setup (Draw through quadraject with gale banks manifold).
The other thing I find suprising is that the enigine has a 72 Deg thermostat and the temp does not budge from that. I am using the standard pissy radiator and a clutch fan assy from a TF cortina.(May need a biger radiator in summer?.

Does anyone know what an ideal thermostat temperature should be?
I picked 72 because it was the only one I had at home.

I have taken a small .mpg clip during a takeoff that I will put on my homepage soon!

The auto JUST got me home today after another wheelie sesion.

Bye
 
Nice straight tracking! Proof that skinny guys can get good launches! I had to cut and paste the URL - the bulletin boards' scripting can't hack a space in the address.

BTW, successful turbos aren't allowed without months of discussion and huge expense. We might have to ban you, :wink: at least until you let your mate paint the car properly with the motor out.

Love the site as always!

Adam.
 
Not bush mechanic!! Not mechanic at all! :wink:

Its my wifes fault, she gave me a milkshake whilst I was working on the intake... :?

I might use it as an exhaust tip next..

Bye
 
George, thank you for you amusing comments on here regarding your vehicle, we are all much amused. There has been a rumour floating around, someone has been telling everyone that Arthur from Custom Engines has built you motor and sorted it for you, is this true?? the source was not the most reliable one, but has been known to tell the truth in the past. The rumour continues as they are also saying you have used all chrysler parts on the internals, and thats why it seems to go so well. If these comments are true, then you fan following would be truely devestated. Please elaborate on the above..
 
hey i'll be the first to admit that chrysler internals are probably the toughest youl get out of the factory,,,,, not sure he'd be using a chryler crank . i wish id thought of that thoough . is it even possible to fit the crank and rods from a chryler on a crossflow or ohc sixx.....??? :?: :?: :?:

someone in the know let me know


hey could be that he built the bottom end and geoge srted the top end
 
Yeah you might be right on the chrysler parts in a ford motor the most ppl i spoke to use a hemi 265 rods in the 250xflow to reduce the compression {thats wat i heard not sure} :P
 
doesnt the hemi 265 have different bore centrelines compared to the ford/holden sixes?
 
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