Update on the Turbo Experiment.

[Anonymous]

thats interesting to know, I've read around the traps that 650-750hp is about the limit for EF-BA style cranks. But it'd be nice to know theres more lurking

Out of interest, what transmission are you using Joe?

 

[Anonymous]

discokin6-

the box is a spura 5spd turbo box (but will be swaped for a top loader gtho bullnose box) and this power run of 1000hp will happen on the standard stroke ohc motor thats in the bay now. i wanna rev the thing to 6700rpm and 43 psi. i am not too fussed if it blows.

as i wanna get this stocker started, and a blown engine will be the perfect catylist for me to get of my fat ass!!.

i'll go for it when i get the cash togeather for the strocker build and when this standard stroke ohc motor is fully sorted.

cheers.joe.

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting. very interesting, how do you find running the Supra Turbo gearbox? And why are you going for an HO style toploader? Any diff mods planned?


lol. Blown engine being a catalyst.. I'd like to see how high the boost can go, but I'd have to say that boost should be the limiting reagent in this particular equation

 

[Anonymous]

atm the car hasnt even been driven,

the car is still stripped out,

the power figure of 740hp was on a engine dyno, the engine builder was absolutley amazed at the power of the engine.

atm, we are experiencing problems with spark and fuel.

it running a standard flacon eb ignition coil in there, and we are having the spark being blown out by the boost pressures (anything over 32psi),

also the engine is leaning out at 5100, but peak power is being set up to come at 5800, so theres more power in the current set up still to come.

the turbo on it is a truck turbo just about (its 250mm wide accross the exhaust housing) inlet temps are sitting on 43 degrees (not bad considering in a engine room, the cooler is a 700x400x76mm mack truck garrett core with water injection as well.

the engine was built and designed to handle excursions to 6300 and 36psi (although we decided to have power come in at 5800 for durability reasons). its big dolars for a set of 1000cc injectors a extra 044 fuel pump and a set of 6 mw ignition coils and a ignition only ecu somewhere round the 3000-4000dollar mark but i am estimating 5000 bucks more and we should be happy with around 800 fwhp (the turbo is rated to 1000hp but i do have a larger compressor housing and wheel sitting here to go on to take hp rating to 1200).

cheers.joe.

 

[Anonymous]

the supra i dont know how it goes in thre ford i've never had the chance to test it out, i've blown 4 engines on the dyno.....TO MUCH BLOODY BOOST!!LOL.

the reason for going the gt box is its even stronger then the top loader, and i have seen top loaders in 800rwhp set ups so a gtho box will see more grunt. the diff is still a borg warner 4 pin 28 spline axles (essentialy the same a 9 inch but the crown wheel is smaller) there is a detroit locker in there as well, the weak link will be the gearset as they are outa a cortina (3.7) as soon as they blow a new set of 3.7 will be put in (brand new ones have a different curveture on the teeth which allows them to handle more abuse).

cheers.joe.

 

[Anonymous]

i offer to buy your comp housing and wheel that do 1000hp, if theyill fit a garret to4,,,

but seriously i will.

am i right to assume that this is an ohc motor, then how much comp are you running and how the F()K did you get it that low,

try gas research perf centre for the ign only comps,, they bouhgt the last stocks of the haltech? or some other brand,, they used to be 800$ or so i think

Go SIX oR GO hOMe!

 

[Anonymous]

Goerge,

The cam you are using sounds okay for a mild setup. I have done a bit of research on this, blown up one engine and talked to quite a few people you have worked on Ford inline sixes.

The last cam I was using was:

Duration 230°@0.050" on lnlet
219°@0.050" on exhuast
Lift 0.530" inlet
0.490" exhaust
Lobe separation 114°

(btw this cam and sealed power hydraulic lifters are for sale in Brisbane for anyone intersted see for sale section)

This worked niceley for a mild setup when using 10 psi I was making 265hp @ wheels.

I screwed the boost to 19.5psi and started to really hone in on a good tune up after some dyno time and was making 400hp at the wheels still using this cam and a turbo very similar to yours. I don't know what trim your turbine and compressor wheels are though?

My turbo had 2 psi at 2000rpm which sounds similar to yours

I ended up doing a head gasket then cracked to pistons after having the engine pinging. The conclusion I came to was that the turbo and the camshaft were both coming on at the same time between 2700-3700 rpm which was too much for the engine to cope with all at once. I had 622 ftlb of torque at 3500rpm which was wicked to drive around on street tyres!

I am now going to a bigger camshaft but only because I went bigger in boost. I want the turbo to do its thing first reaching my set point of 19.5 PSI by 3500 rpm then i want the cam to carry the engine strongly to the redline of 5500rpm.

Remeber a bigger cam will cause the inlet valve to close later on the compression stroke. The engine won;t actually start compressing anything until the inlet valve closes. Working the compression ratio out based on the swept volume after the inlet valve closes is what is called the dynamic compression ratio. Lower dynamic compression allows the engine to run much higher boost levels.

Basically your cam sizing is dependant on the amoung of boost you want to run and the amoung of power you want to make just like any engine.

Mild cams mean mild power and are used with mild turbos
Mild cams with Wild turbos are a bad match

 

[Anonymous]

PUMBAPLUS- the comp cover and wheel wont be for sale- i have a valiant s series with a 318 v8 with a 360 hiding insde with 360 heads on it. yes i know its an eight... lol. goal 500hp by 4600rpm and a stupid amount of tourqe with bugger all throttle lag. so a t66 exhuast and core will have the t78 comp side fronting it. well thats the intaial plan. but i am keen to see how much hp the 225 slant inline six will make with 32 psi. so i amy end up selling the v8 and building a tough six in the val yet.

the ford motor is a ohc one. its a ef block/crank/rod combo with a crank girdle in place and a set set of ea acl race series pistons (with 11.8cc bowls in them) the head is a au falcon one thats had extensive port work done to it and the chambers have been hogged out the compression now sits at 8.3 to one. the head is current of getting more porting done to it atm. it flowed 385hp previuosly with more porting it will flow around the 425hp mark (so that means i could posibly have a 300kw n/a i6!!).

i have a de-comp copper plate here and the head and vlock have been o-ringed i'll have the compression droped to 7.5 for the single dyno pass of 1000hp after that the boost will be pegged back to 32 psi the compression back up to 8.3 and return to normal fuel (spo basicly back to the 740hp street spec).

as for the ignition comp i'll be going a msd 6 or 7 set up with a blaster coil cdi set up. and i'll leave the fuel to the capable delco set up.

cheers.joe.

 

[George]

Joe,

PLEASE don't mention Valiants and the word "power", "reliable" or "strong" next to each other as some of my mates E.g "VAL360" will end up with a "woody" for a week.

Hemi's are ok though!


I hope no one saw that!

Bye

 

[addo]

Agreed on the Hemi!

The others will go hard if you drop Viagra in the tank.

 

[Fingers]

I saw that too.....

 

[Anonymous]

ok i want a report this was at calder park tonight running a 12 second 1/4

 

[George]

Yes you are right...the junk was at calder.

I ended up running an 11.8 @110Mph sitting in the rev limmiter 60 meters before the 1/4.

Many problems including the injectors that are only standard XR6T items. I had to screw up the fuel pressure to stop it leaning out. I will eventually get bigger injectors.

The 3.5:1 diff ratio is a big problem...I need to change it to 3.0:1.

I must say i was pleased considering it has never been dynoed at it was it's first outing..

I managed to lift the front wheel quite high on one of my takeoff's ..This is new territory for me. I highly recomend the ET street radials...they stick like shiet to a blanket. (Thanks to VAL360 for twisting my wallet!!)

Enough talk...Im wrapped with the result.

Cheers,

P.s Enyone can do it..have a go.

 

[Anonymous]

thats damn impressive

i saw the car and thought i know that then i saw it with the bonnet up and spotted the overkill ignition system and said yeah i definatly know that

ive got some photos on my camera ill grab em off and upload em for ya tomorrow

 

[Anonymous]

my camera is crap only got 1 clear shot of your car
and here it is

 

[xctasy]

Spot prize!

King George of the (Asphalt) Jungle!

 

[Anonymous]

g'dday guys.

 

[xctasy]

Nanu nanu

 

[Anonymous]

hey george what are you using as a pickup for your ignition.?????

ef crank angle sender??

 

[George]

hi pumb,

for the pickup I have used the original est ignition distributor with the module removed.
Using my best friend the dremel, i cut two of opposing vanes in two to create a reference pulse.

I removed the hall effect sensor and replaced it with an optical item.

I have notice you mention that the the wolf 3d timming jumps around and is not stable...this is not a problem using the optical pickup.

Cheers,

George