Weber DFAV

[Anonymous]

I'm looking at a Weber 32/36 DFAV (32 36 DFAV 23 A4H/30)

I've heard these carbs have a Water Choke?

How does that work?

 

[66200i6]

Most carbs have the three different types of choke a manual, electric and water. With the water type on the Weber you will need a method of supplying your engines coolant directly through the choke area of the carb. There is also a passive choke design, which uses the coolant hose that provides radiant heat through the hose to the cap, which contains the coil for the choke.

I have never used the Weber water choke but if it is maintained it can provide a simple accurate indicator to the true operating temperature of your engine. One problem with the electric type choke is that the coil controlling the position of the choke plate will cool quicker than the block, which causes a rich condition at start up that is not needed for a warm engine.

You also have the option to purchase the parts needed to convert to the electric type. Thou not as accurate it is used because of how easy it is to install and use.

Good luck and have fun, Ric.

 

[t-west]

In upgrading to the 5200, I disconnected the hoses to the carb spacer, which I no longer use, and reconnect them to the water choke. This seems to work for me.

best,
--tom

 

[66200i6]

You may find that the flow through the water choke horn attached to the carb may cause a restriction when compared to the heater plate at the base of the carb. You may notice a reduced ability of your heater core to supply heat to the interior.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

Thank you so much for your time and advice

 

[Anonymous]

You can tee off the heater hoses with smaller line to run to the water choke. That wy you won't have the flow restriction on the heater hose lines. My old '65 Lincoln had a Carter AFB with a water choke plumbed to it from the factory.
Doug

 

[MercuryMarc]

I bought a electric choke conversion kit fom Electrodyne- only one wire to hook up and a lot less messy than trying to route the 2 hoses into the carb water choke of the HW 5200. Works fine in San Fracisco weather.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, I remember seeing the conversion kit, I may look into it.

 

[Anonymous]

My Weber has an electric choke. It openned too fast. In order to slow it down I put a couple of resistors in line to cut back on the wattage it was getting. A variable resistor would be nice for the seasonal weather changes.
Doug

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting, maybe a simple single-turn type variable resistor - could turn by hand?

 

[Anonymous]

I went to Radio Shack hoping to find a variable resistor. I don't think they had one that handled the amps, but that just could have been my store which caters more to cell phones and and toys rather than electronic components. I would have to check, but if I remember, the electric choke was pulling 5 amps. My memory could be way off. I think I put in two 20 ohm resistors.
I'll try to remember to post some of my notes.
Doug

 

[Anonymous]

i will second the thing on radio shaq oh for the day when you could build a thermo-nuke from RS componants and the employees were all tech geeks

as i recall all elec chokes are suppose to run at 7 volts like your dash guages via the second voltage regulator under the dash
so i'd just run a small wire back thru
i cant recall if the iggy has a 7 volt on Dura spark but the guages only work in on/run

 

[66 Fastback]

My memory was way off. I installed a 10ohm, 1 watt resistor. It reduced the voltage from 7 or 7.5 to 3.5 v. Current flow was about .4 amps. Before the resistor it was taking 3 minutes to open the choke. I guess I did not time it after the resitor was installed, but it was openning in under 3 miles. So I added another 10 ohm, 1 watt resistor in the line. Voltage is now down to 2 to 2.5 volts at the choke. I still have not timed its openning again, but I now get about 4 miles before it feels like it has openned.
Doug