Where to buy aftermarket connecting rods for 200?

[350kmileford]

I have searched Google and this forum with no avail...

I am looking for some aftermarket (strogner and/or lighter) connecting rods for the 200 ci inline engine. Where can I get them?

Also, has anyone seen an aftermarket crank?

If I got new connecting rods, could I simply replace (along with new bearings) my old ones? Simply in and out? Or would I need to grind the crank and/or get difference sized rod journals? Is that something people do?

What is the breaking point (hp and torque) of a stock bottom end?

 

[addo]

There are probably better places to spend your money. You could chase up a 221 crank and make it fit; not sure on rod choice though.

Usual modes of failure are (in order):

1. Head gasket
2. Piston failure
3. Rod breakage

The last is very rare indeed. Stuff like spun bearings could almost always be ascribed to some problem prior with maintenance/assembly.

 

[Bort62]

What is the breaking point (hp and torque) of a stock bottom end?

Far beyond a point you will have to worry about.

Anyone had a rod let go here? (crickets...)

 

[AzCoupe]

Magnaflux, remove stress risers, shot peen, and install APB bolts, and your good to go.

 

[Harte3]

If you are concerned about the crank "mic" (measure) the journals to verify they are within specs and don't have to be ground.

 

[350kmileford]

I've used micrometers to blueprint engines, so I should be good there.

What stress risers are you talking about?


So even with the aluminum head and a turbo, the bottom end is strong enough? (with ARP rod bolts and mabe new pistons)

 

[addo]

At some point, you may find its mechanical limits - but that's probably well beyond boost levels found in a typical turbo build.

 

[AzCoupe]

What stress risers are you talking about?
So even with the aluminum head and a turbo, the bottom end is strong enough? (with ARP rod bolts and mabe new pistons)

1) Stress risers are any defect in the con-rod, such as casting flash and/or edges. Stress risers concentrate fatigue and initiate cracks. The idea is to grind them down to a smooth radius, rather than an edge, thus spreading out the load.

2) No problem....

 

[82F100]

Does10's has used stock rods for the last few years and they have lived with basic said mods with up to 20 lbs of boost.

 

[Does10s]

Yup! Stock rods and crank are fine!
Our first set of rods weren't even cleaned up. Totally like Ford made them! When that motor died I pulled the crank and rods for use in another motor sometime. After four years of abuse they looked brand new.
Save your money and buy the aluminum head. More bang for the buck there!

Later,
Will

 

[rbohm]

8) another vote for keeping the stock rods. the stock ford rods are tough items. i have seen engine that make more power than will and kelly's engine(on a per cubic inch basis) with the stock rods and not have a rod problem. as far as the crank goes, the stock crank is a quality piece and can handle the power and rpm you plan to run. in fact i have seen very few ford cranks break, even when you split a 5.0 block due to making 600hp. bob glidden turned a prepped stock crank in the 10k rpm range on pro stock competition in the 70's and never had a broken crank.

as for what stress risers are, mike hit it on the nose. casting flash, cracks, edges, even the divits that are left due to the sand used in casting the rods are stress risers. polish the rods, break the edges and round them off, and then have the rods shot peened for maximum strength, and then add arp rod bolts, and you will have a rod that can handle just about anything you can throw at it.