which cam???

[Anonymous]

ok i have plans on increasing th epower of my 200...im going to leave the 200 block stock(no bore for now)...im going to add a aus2v with a holley 2bbl 350 cfm or holley 390 cfm 4 bbl...as for head work i am going to have the 1.75'' intake, 1.50'' exhaust, 3 angle valve job, harden seats and mill the head to get about a 9.6:1 compression so i can still run on pump gas...ill also be adding pretty much everything that is on AZcoupe's pakage "A" deal on his website...as for ignition...mallory unilite dist., msd6al, master blaster 3 coil, msd 8.5 super conducter wires, and accel u groove plugs...the only thing i havent totally agree on getting is a cam?!? i thought a 260H comp cam but i dont know...i do want power but this is also going to be a daily driver and i do want to keep good gas mileage...later plans to take into consideration would be 2500 stall converter, b&m shift kit and oil pan, 9'' rear, 3.55 gear, posi...and for braking power ssb front discs (4lug) and drums in the rear(4lug)...so my real question is what cam would be the best mate for my build-up...if you want to know more info to help me decide...PM me...
gary

 

[ricksmol]

Gary: I have a 260 cam on mine with the Aussie 2V head and a 350 Holley carb. I find this cam to be a good compromise for performance and idle comfort. Also since you have an automatic trans, do not go into a very wild cam or you'll have problems with torque at take off.
Rick

 

[Anonymous]

HI gary,

In the Tech section of the forum there is a good article on cam slection. The cam you have in mind would be my choice for a daily driver. The design operating range, 1000 - 5000 rpm. This cam will have a nice idle, good low end torque, and will operate very well with a stock converter. Actually, a 2500 rpm converter would be a poor choice for this cam.

Regarding you trans plans, the 66 C4 is the cruise-o-matic, i.e., the 2 green dot shift pattern. This set up is not going to give you the control you will want with the engine you are building. The fix is to swap out the 66 valve body for a 68 valve body (a bolt in deal). This will give you the 1,2,D,N,R,P pattern (you will need to change to the gear selector cover on the floor to the 67 - 68 unit to eliminate confusion while driving). If you install the shift kit at the same time all you need to do is take the valve body to a trans shop, have the shift kit installed in the VB, and bolt the VB into the trans. This will allow you to shift the C4 as if it were a stick, if and when you want to. You will like it.

The 9" rear is very heavy (100 lbs more than stock) and way more strength than you need. Also, it has the 5 lug axel. The V8 stang rear, the 8", would be plenty if you want the 5 lug. However, the stock unit can be re-geared. Admittedly, 3.20 and 3.50 gear sets for the 7.25 are a little hard to find. But, if you are very lucky, you may already have one. Check your numbers B4 you swap.

Enjoy the trip - Steve

 

[Anonymous]

thanks for the info...btw i already have a 7.25'' with 3.20 gears

 

[Anonymous]

I have an Isky 262 hydraulic cam, a little lopey at idle, but will scream once up over 1500 rpms. With that Aussie 2V it should be nice.
Chris Harris