I have a sickness, I've tried to warn y'all in other posts...
This time I bought a Zetec i4 with automatic transmission.
I have no idea what year it is (positively) or what it came out of.
The oil has a nice golden color and is in the 'safe' zone on the dipstick.
The transmission fluid has a nice red tint to it and smells right.
The guy I bought it from, 'won' it in a storage locker auction.
I paid less than it would cost to get the alternator from a U-pull-it...
I have NO need for this motor/trans, I have no idea what I am going to do with it.

Its got all the markings and signs of being a wrecking yard removal, bolt cutter cramped wires and hoses.
Oxy/Ace torched CV shafts.

yesterday I had no idea that today I'd own a zetec... so I spent a few moments (hours) reading about them

First I wanted to know what I was working with, wikipedia for some background
Ford Zeta engine 2.0l zetec-e section -- wikipedia
Says I'm dealing with a motor that is roughly 130hp/130tq (stock)

And then I wanted to know if there were any options to use one of these as a RWD.

It turns out that the zetec has the same bellhousing pattern as the 2.3L Lima motors

I started on here, because I thought Jack had done something with one, and he had, searches here lead me to...
Zetec Powered MGB Build Thread -- Focus Forum

There is a video of it running at the bottom of page 19.

Looks like I need to start looking for stand alone ignition solutions and working on a carburetor intake manifold while keeping my eyes open for something suitable to put it in.


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My mom had a little Focus 4 door sedan that had that engine in it. About a 1998 if I remember right and was front wheel drive. Was a great runner and real good on gas. Good luck :nod:


Since I bought it condition unknown I'd like to test a few things, namely compression and cranking oil pressure.
I have no desire to deal with the automatic, but I need a way to spin a starter. It's hard to keep from ripping off all the emissions and efi stuff so I am only dealing with and storing the long block. At some point I'll email/PM Jack to see if his son Brian has a CNC file for the intake he made. If not it wouldn't be that hard to recreate the necessary file from the measurements they posted in their thread.

At 130hp/130tq it's not a terrible motor for its size, I have a 4speed from behind a 2.3 out of a Mustang 2 at dads house.
I bet with a carb, it would move something the size of a 63 Falcon fairly well (when comparing it to a stock 144 or 170)

Again, I have no need for this motor, but my hoarding tendencies said for the price, I NEEDED to pick it up. You know, for educational value.


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:banghead: I remembered wrong it was a 1996 Ford Contour 4 door sedan, those engines were used in lots of little cars like the last Capri's too. Nothing wrong with some Hoarding if you have the room. I always though it was a great little engine and wondered about swapping one into a Model A Ford pickup. Would be good in a little Ranger pickup or maybe a Pinto, Mustang II. Good luck :nod:


I could probably talk my brother out of his '74 m2 ghia, it currently has a 2.8l/4spd.
Dad has a 1990 Mustang with a non-running 2.3l sitting in the yard.
I thought a 80-early 90's 2wd Ranger with a manual would be perfect for daily driving.
I'll be keeping my eyes open for possibilities.


CoupeBoy":2ndbzt7x said:
It turns out that the zetec has the same bellhousing pattern as the 2.3L Lima motors

It's not an exact match. The top two bolt holes on the Lima are higher up, and the dowels are a different size. Early Limas had both patterns on the block.

There are T5 bellhousings that match the Zetec. In the early eighties the predecessor to the T5 (SR4) had the correct bell for use with the German 2.0L.

Wonder if there is enough room on the Zetec block to drill the top holes?


In the MGB thread I posted a link to they talked about that issue.
[url=http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/engine-transmission-swap/302371-zetec-powered-mgb-build-thread-13.html:qz31pql7 said:
Zetec Powered MGB Build Thread -- MustangSix -- Page 13[/url]":qz31pql7]I voted for a 4.0 Rover, but was outvoted by the owner! I personally like the B-series Austin engine. Not the most powerful, but it is a good performer in such a lightweight car. It only needs a little help with compression and intake to make it more lively, but Zetec is the path we are on now and I think its going to work out great.

The 2.3 bellhousing needs a little work to make it usable, but the alignment dowels are in the correct location along with one other bolt hole, so you have a good start.

To use the bell housing:

1. We are using a 1.9 Escort flywheel with a 2.3 Mustang clutch and pressure plate. Same diameter, but the clutch height matches the stock Mustang bell clutch release mechanism (which we decided not to use). The Escort 1.9 flywheel is several lbs lighter than a Zetec as well. Drill the flywheel bolt holes from 10mm to 11mm (7/16) and use the 11mm Zetec flywheel bolts. Ditching the Zetec flywheel means you will have to move the crank position sensor and add a 36-1 toothed wheel for the ignition pickup. It might be possible to use the zetec flywheel with the Mustang 2.3 T5 clutch disc but I haven't measured that combo. If that works you don't need to move the crank sensor.

2. You will need the sheet metal block plate that fits the 2.3 bellhousing. It is needed to help index the starter position. Trim it to clear the Zetec crank seal retainer.

3. Fabricate some stepped dowels. The locating dowel diameter on the Zetec is .501 inches; the 2.3 dowels are .601 inches. Make them about an inch long, total. Drill a 10mm diameter thru hole and bevel the ends to help inserting them. This is a quick job on the lathe; steel or aluminum will work. Tap the small end into the block.

4. You need to add at least one more mounting hole to the bell, preferably two. There are two ways to do this. You can either drill the block to match the top holes in the bell, or you can weld a little additional material to the bell to pick up the Zetec holes. The Zetec pattern is already in the block plate for some reason so you have a template to guide you. We chose to weld because the top two holes would have come very close to the back two head studs. I would rather leave the material there and not risk drilling into the stud.

5. The stock Mustang 2.3 uses a cable clutch. If you keep the stock release arm you could adapt an external slave cylinder. We are going to use a Chevy LS1 hydraulic slave that I'm adapting to the bearing retainer and matches well to the stock 3/4" master.

6. The T-5 transmission shaft for a V8 trans is a tad too short to work properly. It barely engages the pilot bearing. You will need:

a. a longer custom pilot bearing (not hard to make from oilite bronze), or
b. use the 4cyl t5 trans (bad first gear ratio), or
c. modify a V6 input shaft (good first gear, simple machining). The V6 shaft has to be shortened by .400 inches and the snout diameter needs to be turned down to .590 inches to fit the Zetec pilot.

7. The "ears" on the Zetec pan have to be sawed off to make room for the 2.3 starter. There's a lot of aluminum on the rear of the pan that's not needed so all of it can be taken off. We used a large bandsaw, but a sawzall or cutoff wheel works too.

If all this sounds like a lot of work, frankly, it is. This is not a simple bolt on, but the parts are very adaptable with some welding and machining. If you don't have all this capability available like we do, it may actually be better to suck it up and buy the expensive ($500) bell from Quads or D&D or TSI. You could end up paying someone way more than that to do all the work.

So some easy stuff - retaining the MG gauges.

1. The oil pressure gauge is mechanical. We just screwed an AN3 to 1/4" NPT adapter into the block and will run a line to the gauge oil line.

2. On our late model the water temp gauge is electrical. We tapped a spot for the MG sender on the LS1 water outlet adapter. The Zetec sender location gets blocked by a 10mm bolt and washer.

3. The MG tach can be driven by the Zetec coil outputs. See the Megasquirt site for the EDIS tach adapter. It's two zener diodes with an output that will feed the original tach pickup wire.

4. The speedo cable just screws into the trans output. A stock T5 will need a 23 tooth driven gear to work with the stock 3.901 rear end. I think we will swap the 8-tooth drive gear for a 6- or 7-tooth gear in order to use a more durable 18 or 19 tooth driven gear.

5. No changes to the fuel gauge or the clock, obviously.

We'll get more photos posted up soon to show what all this stuff looks like.
And again
[url=http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/engine-transmission-swap/302371-zetec-powered-mgb-build-thread-24.html:qz31pql7 said:
Zetec Powered MGB Build Thread -- MustangSix -- Page 24[/url]":qz31pql7]I needed to reduce the length, the diameter, and remove some of the splined areas so I went to three different machine shops (all friends of mine) and they were not equipped to handle a shaft of that shape. It was easy enough to center the pilot end, but getting hold of the shaft to turn it was difficult. It was simply in the too-hard category for their machines and I didn't feel like going to other shops. In the end I simply used a shorter V8 input shaft and turned a longer custom pilot bushing out of oilite to fit the bigger pilot diameter of the V8 shaft.

Actually, a simpler, cheaper solution for a 3.8 trans would have been to just make a 5/8" spacer to go between the bell and the transmission to accommodate the extra length. Just need to pin it or index it to the center hole so that the trans is centered and you would still need to bore the pilot bushing to .672".

I installed a new input shaft bearing because the new V8 shaft didn't have one. Put the shaft in the freezer, bearing in the oven and it just drops on.

You don't need to tear the tranny down. When you remove the input shaft retainer you can then rotate the input shaft to a clearance cutout and pull it straight out. There are needle bearings between the input and the cluster as well as a shim for the input bearing. If you drop a needle bearing into the case, THEN you have to tear it down. Use a good sealer like Right Stuff to put the retainer back on. No silicone.

A 2.3 Mustang or T-bird transmission would be a bolt in. It is the right length and has the right pilot diameter. The downside is the 3.97 or 4.01 first gear coupled to the stock 3.909 MG rear. It just comes out too short for my liking, though it's no worse than first gear in a six speed Miata.


Interesting. I think it would almost pay to offer modified bells to the public. The Locost 7 crowd likes the Zetec.

I remember the first ones I saw, while working for a Ford dealer in the 90's. Debut in the States in the Contour. Good engine in a bad car. I had to build one from scratch in '95 because short blocks weren't available from Ford yet...

Another possible trans option is the TK5 from the Ranger. Removable bell, hydraulic clutch and slightly better ratios.


Funny you should mention a falcon.
I looked at this one last weekend.
It's an i6/auto.

The owner is a little hard to track down.
But to get it drivable faster, I am going to pull the auto out of an old Bobcat that dad has in his trees.

Dad also claims to have a 5speed out of a 2.3l 2wd ranger "somewhere".


thesameguy":3u7mwctg said:
A lot of those parts exist... just not here.

Check these guys out:



http://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php ... ommon/home

That and a Megajolt setup and you're set.

I have a Duratec 2.0l in the garage from an '05 Focus that I am someday going to put into the Falcon... ITBs & bike carbs + Megajolt + T5 bellhousing. YEAH!
I'll admit that I am very i4 illiterate, I've never had a reason to know much about them. But from reading that second link, I found this..
Ford 1.6 1.8 2.0 ZETEC to Crossflow Inlet Manifold Adapter Plate £49.99

10mm thick 5053 Aluminium CNC WATERJET cut inlet manifold adapter plate to suit the Ford 1.6/1.8/2.0 Zetec engine. This plate/stud arrangement allows the fitment of a 1300/1600 XFLOW manifold onto the popular 1.6/1.8/2.0 Zetec E engine. The kit consists of:
A quick Google search turns up this thread that claims I have a 2.0L intake
Intake identification -- FordPinto.com Forum
Part number 71HF-9425-HB/JB

So my question is.. will this be close enough? (I'm thinking not, since I see references to CVH and Pinto motors separately)
This motor happens to be sitting in Dad's scrap pile..

Another interesting find on that same webpage...
Ford Zetec E 37mm Bike Carburettor Starter Kit £350.00
danST Engineering are pleased to be able to offer this complete bolt on kit for the Ford Zetec E engine (1.6/1.8/2.0 blacktop/silvertop). The package consists of the following:

1x TIG welded danST Engineering Aluminium inlet Manifold

1x Set of 37mm Keihin or Mikuni Carburettors

1x danST Engineering Carb Fitting Kit (4x Fluoro lined silicone hoses and 8x stainless mikalor clamps) in red, blue or black

1 x danST Heavy Duty 1mm Thick Novus Inlet Gasket

FWIW, one of my coworkers owns/drives this and he let me take it out for a spin yesterday.

Looks familiar

If I'm reading the internet correctly, this car should weigh about 400lbs more than a 1960/61 2dr Falcon.
The performance was limp compared to what I normally drive ('05 F250 6.0L PSD, '12 Tahoe 5.3L, '68 Mustang 289) but what I would expect from a motor that size.
for normal town driving it was adequate to keep up with traffic, 0-75 took about 25 seconds. In its stock form/vehicle, I've read claims of 30-32MPG.

Classic Inlines rates the stock 144 at 90hp/138tq, which compares favorably to the stock EFI 2.0L 130hp/130tq, the 2.0 with minor upgrades should be a good fit for a Falcon.


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The Zetec with a '60s-era 2-speed or a 3-speed would be *rough* - the six's low torque handles tall gears without issue. But I'd bet with the same modern-er transmission the Zetec is going leave the six behind. A stock Focus Zetec will definitely out-pull even a 200ci Falcon... I've had both... at the same time. :) Also bear in mind the Zetec weighs around 350lbs, so putting that Zetec in your Falcon is going to shave *another* 150-200lbs off the car. 130hp Zetec in a, what, 2200lb Falcon is going to be snappy!

I'd shoot an email over to Dansten Engineering - they have been very helpful getting my Duratec wishlist together and have a good reputation with the Locost people. I suspect they'll be able to get you sorted.

That said, I think that flange will work, but it's not what you want. That flange lets you put the dual Weber crossflow intake from an old 1300cc motor onto your new Zetec. That's great if you've got one of those rare, expensive manifolds and you want your Locost or Escort to look right, but I think you have better options on a Zetec in a Falcon.

http://www.burtonpower.com/inlet-manifo ... 4286b.html


http://quad4rods.com/index.php?page=sho ... mid=100041

You could also consider just injecting it. You could talk to these guys:

http://www.fswerks.com/collections/focu ... programmer

Or chat up diyefi - I am pretty sure they have a Megasquirt kit to plop onto a Zetec. :)


CoupeBoy":2enoujtt said:
The performance was limp compared to what I normally drive

Try one in an Escort ZX2. Those would run a 15.50 quarter mile time stock.

The only thing I didn't like about them is the odd noises they made when revved up.


thesameguy":2i7n8yj4 said:
That said, I think that flange will work, but it's not what you want. That flange lets you put the dual Weber crossflow intake from an old 1300cc motor onto your new Zetec. That's great if you've got one of those rare, expensive manifolds and you want your Locost or Escort to look right, but I think you have better options on a Zetec in a Falcon.
I'm going to pull that intake from the 2.0 in dad's scrap pile. From my rough eyeballing it looks like the intake bolt spacing is the same as the Burton adapter I posted above. I could probably make my own adapter plate out of 3/8" aluminum, drill, cut, grind, tap. It would be an easy way to get this motor running on a single carb and upgrade to a more complex induction system later. For that matter, I could probably make my own single carb intake with enough time. Any single carb recommendation? (CFM rating)

In regards to this one that you posted that uses DCOE 45's
Inlet manifold Ford Zetec E 2x45DCOE 93mm £160.82
(it should be worth noting that as of the time of this writing, $1.45 US = £1)
That intake would cost $233 (plus shipping and other unknown fees)
And I googled DCOE 45, they are at least $300 EACH and that intake requires 2, bringing this to at minimum $850 induction only solution.
Not very budget friendly for a cheapskate like me.

On to the next one.

Intake Manifold (ZEDCOE) -- Quads4Rods $ $378.13 plus $23 shipping.
Again with a pair of DCOE carbs, this would be just over $1000.00, again for induction alone. (mi no gusta)
thesameguy":2i7n8yj4 said:
You could also consider just injecting it. You could talk to these guys:

http://www.fswerks.com/collections/focu ... programmer
This could be interesting, the programmer is usually $400, however there is a guy on my local craigslist that recently posted one for sale $100, but it would have to be sent in to be 'unmarried' which is another $150. When I first saw it I was thinking about picking it up for my Ford 6.0 Powerstroke because in stock form my 6.0 is OK, no complaints. But I decided to wait a while and buy a Gryphon from PowerHungryPerformance. I'm going with a Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) programmer over an ECM programmer because starting in 2004 Ford detuned the 6.0 to reduce cylinder pressure and therefore warranty claims against head gasket, most of the control for the injectors comes from the FICM, a person like me can reflash the FICM and gain up to 100hp using a stock ECM tune, they recommend Atlas40 for everybody, but EGT gauge for anybody towing a lot using the Atlas80 or higher. Some guys buy ECM programmers ,like the SCT x4, only to be unimpressed when their Looney Tune (yes its a real thing, you can get yours HERE) doesn't quite make the power they expected because Ford limited the FICM.

I have NO EFI ECM for the Zetec, so a programmer is only a partial solution to a bigger problem. And on this motor the EFI has its own issues that I'll bring up in a moment.
thesameguy":2i7n8yj4 said:
Or chat up diyefi - I am pretty sure they have a Megasquirt kit to plop onto a Zetec. :)
Megasquirt, carte blanche EFI, since I have neither the time nor inclination to solder up my own kit, I will only be looking at fully assembled units.
Megasquirt 1 DIYAutotune.com $269 with a v2.2
MegaSquirt 1
MegaSquirt 1 (MS1) offers a cost effective entry level to the aftermarket ECU market. Coupled with an EDIS module, the MegaSquirt 1 V2.2 offered excellent value for money mappable spark and fuel. For direct coil control (non-EDIS) the MegaSquirt 1 V3.0 is still a cheap and simple ECU. As expected MegaSquirt 1 lacks many of the features of the newer ECUs. Few OEM wheel patterns are supported, temperature sensor and wideband calibration is more tricky and there are fewer diagnostics. All features require DIY modifications to the circuit board.

Fully assembled.
It is those "features" that require DIY modification to the circuit board that concern me.

Moving on to
MegaSquirt-II EMS System – SMD PCB3.57 Assembled ECU $445
MegaSquirt 2 (MS2) is the second generation of MegaSquirt Engine Management Systems, targeting engines with semi-sequential or batch-fire fuelling and wasted spark ignition. The MegaSquirt 2 shares the same software as the MicroSquirt but most options will require hardware customization. The software is ready to support a wide variety of engines out of the box, with the ability to control anything with one to eight cylinders with batch fire fuel injection and up to four channels of logic ignition. Over 40 different ignition modes are supported, from mainstream applications like the GM LS1, Ford Zetec, Bosch Motronic, and Chrysler Gen III Hemis to unusual modes like Renix Jeeps and the Suzuki Swift GTI.
The MS2 seem to really hit the nail on the head.

They also have the
MegaSquirt-III EMS System with MS3X Expansion V3.57 – Assembled Unit $659 (less without the expansion board)
MS3-Pro Standalone ECU with 8′ Wiring Harness $1199

None of these address the high pressure fuel delivery tank to TB(s).
The motor I bought has a nickel sized hole in the plastic intake manifold, and I really don't want to open the hood and see all the Ford factory EFI components.
But if I keep EFI on the motor, there are other NON-stock options.

For example, the MS2 ($445) used with
Ford Zetec E Inlet Manifold for CBR1100 Blackbird Carburettors £166.66 ($241.66 US)
And then pickup off eBay a set of cheap CBR1100 throttle bodies like these...
04-05 Honda CBR 1000RR throttle bodies fuel body injector 1000 RR OEM 2004 2005 $29.99 (free shipping)

I'd be looking at Fuel and spark control with IR EFI for about $700

There are still places that I could save a few more dollars, for example if I made my own manifold, I'd be willing to bet I could get it done (although not as pretty) for under $60 (us)
And since I know nothing about motorcycle EFI, I'd want to do some research to see if the CBR1000RR wiring harness/fuelpump/ECM had the capabilities to be reprogrammed, and if so, how much are they selling for along with the required tools for modifications.

But it would have to be competitive with the Burton offering that I posted earlier
Ford Zetec E 37mm Bike Carburettor Starter Kit Price: £350.00 ($507.50 US)
And I'd also need an ignition controller, the one that comes up the most is the MegaJoltjr
Megajolt/E -- autosportlabs.com roughly $150
Total for carbs and ignition, $657..

With these carbs, I'm sure I could use the stock fuel pump, but I'd have to add a pressure regulator to make sure it stays at an acceptable pressure.

Keep in mind that these are all musing with no real end date, so I am under no pressure to actually buy any of this, I've got 5 driveable cars at my house for 2 drivers..
Ideally I will get this motor onto a 5speed manual transmission. Anything I do in-between is either a stop gap, or just me killing time to see how it works, I'd never hook the zetec up to a stock Ford-O-matic, but I would be interested in seeing what a C4/C3/C5 would do behind it, whatever is in that Bobcat from behind the 2.3L. The transmission is free to me, which reminds me, I may want to snag the rearend and redrill it to 4 on 4.5, it *should* be an 8".

Now that I think about it, there is another '74 Mustang II out back with a 2.3L/manual, the car is blue and has a HUGE tree branch across the top of it. I'd think that should be a 4 speed, and another 8".

And lastly, I went searching on my local Craigslist yesterday and found that within 300 miles of where I am sitting I could pickup a Focus in the correct age range (1999-2004) anywhere from $200-400 in various states of disrepair. But from one of them, I could salvage all the wiring harness, a new intake manifold and ECM... I'm always keeping my eye and options open.

An Escort ZX2, hopefully that was the one with the Zetec 2.0 (170hp) version..
This is the video I made merging onto i29 with a posted speed of 75mph, from a stop.
I held the skinny pedal to the floor going down hill as I merged with traffic.


Famous Member
The Escort ZX2 had the same 130hp Zetec as the Focus ZX3, but weighed something like 100lbs less and had substantially shorter gearing. It was definitely quicker by most measures, but suffered a little on fuel economy due to higher revs per mph. The Focus was *clearly* the sharper handler! :)

*All* of those running options sound great. I had originally planned in injecting my Duratec, but none of those programmers have sufficient access to the emissions systems in the ECM I have, so I'd be faced with buying a different ECM & fabricating a wiring harness to make it work right, which as you point out costs money. That's what got me onto ITBs & bike carbs - it's about the same money as fuel injection, possibly a little cheaper, and I think would look & sound super under the hood. ;) The six in the car right now is already running on Megajolt, so I'm covered there either way. ITBs & a coil pack seems like a nice picture under the hood. ;)

It is crazy how expensive carbs are these days - you can buy a complete Megasquirt package for the price of a pair of DCOEs! Fortunately bike carbs are still cheap and pretty easy to source. They have a big following in the UK, but it seems a lot of people don't like them here. There are certain problems that are hard to address - throttle response, especially off-idle is the big one. For example, motorcycle carbs often don't have accelerator pumps. On a light motorcycle it's not much of an issue, but from what I've read they can have a gnarly stumble with cars. I'm sure it's ultimately all addressable, but I guess saving money on the carbs comes with the cost of additional, um, craftsmanship. :)

I have never driven or even seen in person a car with bike carbs so I have no firsthand experience. None of this stuff may affect a 2200lb Falcon with four carbs! It sure seems like something interesting to do, and I'm eager to try. Unfortunately, I'm a) really hung up on the transmission I'm going to use and b) I can't weld so getting the damn thing in the car in the first place is a major logistical challenge. ;)

Very excited to watch your project and help if I can!