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'62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

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bubba22349
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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #151 by bubba22349 » Sat Jun 27, 2020 7:35 pm

Yes Bob you are correct those push rods are way too short and the rocker arm adjuster screws are at the bottom of their adjustment travel too. Getting the adjuster screws back towards the top, so they are at least in the middle 1/2 of adjustment plus a couple full turns will then center the push rods in the hole giving proper clearance and much better rocker arm geometry at the conection point of th rocker arm adjuster and push Rod. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

My Ex-Fleet of Sixes sadly these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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62Ranchero200
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Initial hydraulic lash adjustment - lifters never run

Post #152 by 62Ranchero200 » Fri Jul 03, 2020 7:22 pm

Refresh my memory - just like measuring for pushrods, only an additional 1/4-1/2 turn after pushrod cannot move up and down?

No oil in lifters yet - only plunger spring pressure.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #153 by bubba22349 » Fri Jul 03, 2020 11:28 pm

Hi Bob, correct because people can have their faveriote rocker arm adjustments. Most people after getting to zero lash will use 1 full turn on their street cars this gives the quietest operation. Some use a 1/4 turn, half turn, or 3/4 turn too, I have tried them all in the past. For many decades now I have only used a full turn on customer cars that want it to be quiet. Some cars used to use a 3/4 turn spec in the 60's or early 70's after that most of the car manufacturers recommended 1 full turn so I only use 1 turn on any customer car because so many people get freaked out if they hear the rocker arms even a few seconds.

For my personal cars I like to use the 1/4 turn spec this extends a Hydrolic cams max RPM by another 200 to maybe 500 RPM because even when the lifters get to their limits and pump all the way up they are already near the top of their travel so the engine dosen't start miss fireing as soon. I started using this method on my race cars and street cars back in the 1960's after my uncle taught me. Be aware that with this 1/4 turn setting you might hear the rocker arms a few seconds at start up until there's oil pressure again most people just don't like hearing this rattle at start up. With 1/2 turn you may or may not hear it at start up Depends on the lifters rate of bleed down while sitting. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

My Ex-Fleet of Sixes sadly these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Zero lash - initial adjustment, with new lifters, no oil in lifter

Post #154 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Jul 05, 2020 2:41 pm

@bubba,

Thank you for the tips about the strategies between 1/4 turn and a full turn beyond zero lash - but my question was more about zero lash itself. Setting initial lash with new hydraulic lifters, no oil in lifters - zero lash is set at TDC on the compression stroke, tightening the adjuster until there is no vertical movement of the pushrod (but you can still spin it with your fingers), is that right?

On a side note, with no oil in the lifters you wouldn't get anywhere near full lift, because the valve spring pressure would overwhelm the lifter plunger spring pressure - is that right? Because currently, as I set the lash I'm seeing much less than the advertised .512" lift @ 1.6:1 = maybe .25". I also tried checking the cranking compression, which was higher than I expected - but if the valves are only opening about halfway, that makes sense, as the cam is effectively much less lift and duration with no oil in lifters, so the dynamic compression is much higher.

Some reassembly has been happening - got the radiator back in with hoses and coolant (Summit aluminum water pump inlet is at a different angle than the stock water pump :bang: ), the intake and carburetor, and the front bumper back on (the Ranchero blocks the attic door in the garage, wife needed access to the attic, so needed the front bumper on to be able to push the Ranchero back into the garage).

Biggest task now is to make up the new stainless braided fuel line, with which a friend will help me (haven't done that before).

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #155 by bubba22349 » Sun Jul 05, 2020 3:35 pm

Hi Bob, glad to hear your making some progress on the reassembly. Yes thats correct when trying to set zero lash the engine needs to be on TDC on compression stroke. This hard for many people and is so easy to go past the zero lash point. It takes developing a real precise feel to notice as the push rods extra clearance between the rocker arm near the end its quickly being taken up during the adjustment. The hard part is to be able to recognize a very sleight drag starting as you are adjusting the screw while you are also turning (rolling / spinning it in your finger tips) each push Rod back and forth then stopping, with this slight drag you have reached the zero lash point, then do your 1/4 or 1 adistional turn more.

Yes you are right you can't get full cam lift when there's no oil in the lifters. This is were the Hydrolic lifters travel we talked about before comes in, so at zero lift your loosing from .150 to .180 of the cams lobe lift and a considerable amount of its deration also. As soon as the engine has had the rocker adjustments is filled with oil ready to crank or if you are going to pre oil it before starting this will all be were it should be. I used an aluminum GMB water pump on my 250 it matched up with the orginal I haven't seen the summit aluminum water pumps yet, who makes them for summit? Keep up the good work. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

My Ex-Fleet of Sixes sadly these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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'62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #156 by chad » Sun Jul 05, 2020 4:57 pm

bubba22349 wrote: I used an aluminum GMB water pump on my 250 it matched up with the orginal

Summit #
GMB-125-1380
for the 250 (at least my iron head)
It may have more capacity (as described for vehicle w/AC) larger impeller.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Started the engine ! - no significant issues

Post #157 by 62Ranchero200 » Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:38 pm

Yesterday, spun the oil pump drive shaft with a drill and brought the oil pressure gauge to 40 psi (spilled some oil through the distributor hole in the process). Yesterday, my copilot was watching the oil pressure gauge.

After some initial difficulty, managed to stab the distributor at what I thought was TDC on #1, then turned ignition on and used remote starter switch to start the engine while using the timing light. My initial stab turned out to be a bit retarded (literally), but turning the distributor counterclockwise allowed it to start. Vacuum advance unit is now pointing directly towards the firewall. Checking the timing, it was about 20 degrees BTDC at a normal idle, the same as before the rebuild.

As soon as I locked down the distributor, I sat in the car and brought the engine up to a fast idle, which I held for 20 minutes. Oil pressure was initially around 65 psi and AFR was around 13.5-14.5. By the end of the 20 minutes, water temperature was up to about 185 (I haven't remounted the electric fan, so I put a large house fan in front of the radiator to keep the engine from getting hotter) and oil pressure was still at about 40 psi at a normal idle.

Finally, I adjusted the idle screws - the idle was a bit rich. Final AFR was 14 - 15 at about 900 RPM.

Issues:

There's some seepage around the oil pan gasket. I need to tighten up the oil pan nuts (I used studs).

There were a few drops of oil around the oil filter. When it cools down enough to touch, I'll tighten it as much as I can by hand. This oil may have been from when I spun the oil pump with the drill.

Most curiously, my vacuum gauge (permanently mounted) is showing only 5" of vacuum. That can't be right - I had 11" vacuum at idle with the 274/274/110 cam, and the 280/280/110 cam can't be that different. I suspect that I have a leak in the vacuum line to the gauge, or another vacuum leak somewhere else, that is skewing the reading.

Did not drive it - there's a cotter pin still needed on the castellated nut that holds the centerlink into the pitman arm, and I want to double-check the motor mount and under-engine brace fasters before I drive it. If no unexpected issues come up, I should be able to drive it tomorrow.

Thanks
Bob the Builder

P.S. With the help of a friend, I ran stainless braided fuel lines for the first time.

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62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #158 by wsa111 » Sat Aug 01, 2020 11:40 am

For anyone installing a distributor, put the TDC marker on what your initial should be. Then when you install the distributor & the reluctor is even with the pickup coil & the rotor is pointing toward #1 plug wire your setting should be very close to being close.
That saves a lot of time removing the distributor several times.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #159 by 62Ranchero200 » Sat Aug 01, 2020 1:02 pm

Hi Bill,

As far as the TDC marker, do you mean put a mark on the timing pointer at the position where you want your initial timing? Using that, you could be near TDC between the exhaust and intake strokes instead of near TDC between the compression and power strokes (where you want to be). Since I had removed and replaced the cam, I had to time the distributor to the rotating assembly.

For how many miles do you think I should drive the Ranchero before I change the break-in oil? For how many miles do you think I should "take it easy" before I open it up to evaluate the new cam and head work? For now, the previous Holley "500 CFM" carb has been reinstalled.

Thank you,
Bob
62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #160 by wsa111 » Sat Aug 01, 2020 3:55 pm

Yes, put a mark on the timing cover where your initial advance is set.
If you put some fast miles on the engine, i would change oil & filter after 100-200 miles.
Make sure you are using oil with high phosphorus & ZDDP or add an additive that contains both of these.
Is your 500 carb. like the one i have for sale??
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #161 by 62Ranchero200 » Sat Aug 01, 2020 5:32 pm

Bill,

I’m using Joe Gibbs oil (BR-1 now and HR-1 after break-in).

I’m using the same carb that you set up for me with the Quick Fuel metering block. I want to see how that runs with the cam and head changes before I upgrade.

Currently, the idle AFR is good after it warms up and the part throttle AFR is good, but it’s very lean (16+) at cruise. I have #71 jets and a .032 idle jet. What do you think would correct the lean cruise?

Thanks
Bob
Last edited by 62Ranchero200 on Sun Aug 02, 2020 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #162 by wsa111 » Sat Aug 01, 2020 7:07 pm

Bob, cruise AFR at over 50 mph should be close to 14.5. Go up to 72-73 main jets. Then do the next test.
If your AF is in the 13.5-13.8 cruising around the neighborhood at 15-25 mph that ok. If its leaner go with a larger idle jet. I would go with a .034 idle jet. Bill
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #163 by 62Ranchero200 » Sun Aug 02, 2020 12:50 pm

Bill,

On my short drive, I was cruising at 20 - 40 mph (20 in neighborhood, 40 on four lane road), and never got up to 50 yet. At moderately higher RPM (as you would have just before shifting to a higher gear), AFR was OK. At lower RPM AFR was 16+.

One small correction to a previous post - I forgot I had changed my jets out to #71 before the "recent" dyno (just before Thanksgiving). My current settings are:

.032" idle jets
#71 main jets
.049" PVCRs
.031" Accel Pump Nozzle
Emulsion Bleed Blank - Removed

Also, I must have had a leak in my vacuum hoses, after some re-routing I'm showing 7" at a low idle (if allowed to idle naturally when first started) and 8" after warmup. That's a little lower than expected, but I expected vacuum to be lower than the 11" I had with the 274/274/108 cam.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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Re: '62 Ranchero - 250 - Aluminum Head update

Post #164 by 62Ranchero200 » Wed Aug 05, 2020 9:25 pm

Bill,

I went to #72 jets and drove around the neighborhood. AFR is a bit lower than before but still 16+at low RPM, for example 1750 RPM @ 30 mph in third gear. At higher RPM (like 30 mph in second gear) AFR is ok.

Time for #34 idle jet? #73 main jets?

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, .020 over, 252 cid, early forged 300 rods, forged RaceTek pistons, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head (milled, ported, dual springs), 1.6 adj rockers, Smith Bros, 280/280/110 cam, CI intake, Holley "500 CFM", DSII, MSD, CI SS headers, duals, FlowMasters, PMGR starter, 1 wire alternator, Optima battery, custom radiator, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next-carb ?

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