Rebuilt Block

Matthew68

Well-known member
Hi All,

What's the "shelf life" on a rebuilt 200 block? I have one I'm about to buy - it was rebuilt completely but as never installed. Complete rebuild: honed, bored, cam, etc, etc. It's been sitting in a garage for a few years, everything was lubed and prepped for assembly. Other than putting some oil on the cylinders before I try to manually crank it, am I taking a huge risk purchasing this? Price is right, but at the same time I don't want to throw money away. It's drastically more economical if things work out to go about it this way rather than having my current block rebuilt. Thoughts?
 
as long as the cranks turns over easily, you are good to go. you can add lubrication to the bearings if you like, or you can deal with that when you fully assemble the motor and install it by priming the oil pump and prelubing the oil system by running the oil pump with a drill.
 
I'd want to see all the paper wrk on this supposed 'new' motor.
What R the specs for each component,
Who is the manafacturer of each,
Cam card, etc.
I'd ck dates, costs, etc...otherwise it's an unknown. If a block/motor is frm the manafacturer all those things R given/known. If some1 has torn it open and had at it I'd wannna know in what ways they have re-done it.
Buying a 'pig in a poke' is never a good idea even when it's very low priced. That's how they entice U to take it offa their hands.

On the other hand, if it doesn't matter, or other issues R at hand (in a rush, not important, price above all else, etc) goferit! U may have an opportunity not 2 B missed here.

A middle ground might B reached by getting as much info as possible, and partial or full dis-assembly (measurment, examine, test) ur self. But wrk would B saved starting frm skratch.

3 options to consider...
 
am I taking a huge risk purchasing this? Price is right, but at the same time I don't want to throw money away.


I think it's worth a shot if you can get a simple visual inspection. IF the engine is stored after being lubed and prepped, it would depend o the storage. Stored in a dry location it could still be viable . In a humid environment, any exposed bearings and other surfaces could be susceptible to corrosion and fairly obvious ...


I bought a 70's Maverick 250 engine through the Falcon Club built by the Clifford Performance shop many years ago while Jack Clifford was still involved and then enfgine was mothballed in the original rebuilt and shipped condition. My machinist and I used a borescope in the cyl's and thru fuel pump crank access and determined it was reasonable to fire it up. I built a '61 Comet around the Clifford 250 and has run continually for @ 15 years
















 
Awesome! Yes, I've visually inspected the block it looks in pristine condition. I've got the specs on the build as well. I did not try turning the crank over while I was there because I wasn't interested at first. I have a buddy helping me inspect and coordindate shipping logistics. I'll have him turn it over first.

The price is right, and the parts are all new and verified manufacturers. For me to try and repeat this build using my current block, it would cost me more than double of what this is costing me, plus the time. It also provides me with a spare (the one I have currently). Appreciate the insight from all.
 
I don't know what you're paying for it, but if it is what it's supposed to be and you payed less than $700 you are way ahead and at little to no cost in time to you. Rebuilds cost alot, even if you do the assemble yourself and then there is alot of time and cleaning and checking, plastiguaging, degreeing the cam ect.
 
Paying less that that, thanks for confirmation.

One other question, there is also a good deal on the C4. Mine could use a rebuild so I'm thinking about picking them both up. My current car/motor/trans is a 68 Mustang. The block and C4 are from a 66. Is there anything I should consider doing this? I understand the valve bodies switched in 67. Is the 66 not the greatest? I've also heard of "Green Dot" C4, not sure if this would qualify. I have the current P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter.

Anything else I should be considering?

Edit: the block code is C6DE-B. I'll try to get the code for the C4 as well.
 
Matthew68":1lqro74i said:
Paying less that that, thanks for confirmation.

One other question, there is also a good deal on the C4. Mine could use a rebuild so I'm thinking about picking them both up. My current car/motor/trans is a 68 Mustang. The block and C4 are from a 66. Is there anything I should consider doing this? I understand the valve bodies switched in 67. Is the 66 not the greatest? I've also heard of "Green Dot" C4, not sure if this would qualify. I have the current P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter.

Anything else I should be considering?

Edit: the block code is C6DE-B. I'll try to get the code for the C4 as well.

Yes all the stock 1964 to 66 C4's used the duel range type valve body or also know as the Green Dot (P-R-N-Dr1-Dr2-L), in my opinion they are not suitable for anything other than someone that wants to do a totally stock restoration of a 1964 to 66 Ford or Mercury car. The later Select Shift valve body's are far superior in operation and trans life.

Yes for sure you should atleast swap out the valve body! Though for a even longer lasting trans, with slightly better economy MPG, and also noticeably quicker performance, with that later select shift valve body add a good shift kit (TransGo) and a auxiliary trans cooler to have even better over all operation for a stock or performance build. For a hi performance engine build if you plan on rebuilding a C4 note that the later 1972 up C4's have all the Ford factory improvements, which can be incorporated into a rebuild. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":2cmpfe1y said:
Matthew68":2cmpfe1y said:
Paying less that that, thanks for confirmation.

One other question, there is also a good deal on the C4. Mine could use a rebuild so I'm thinking about picking them both up. My current car/motor/trans is a 68 Mustang. The block and C4 are from a 66. Is there anything I should consider doing this? I understand the valve bodies switched in 67. Is the 66 not the greatest? I've also heard of "Green Dot" C4, not sure if this would qualify. I have the current P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter.

Anything else I should be considering?

Edit: the block code is C6DE-B. I'll try to get the code for the C4 as well.

Yes all the stock 1964 to 66 C4's used the duel range type valve body or also know as the Green Dot (P-R-N-Dr1-Dr2-L), in my opinion they are not suitable for anything other than someone that wants to do a totally stock restoration of a 1964 to 66 Ford or Mercury car. The later Select Shift valve body's are far superior in operation and trans life.

Yes for sure you should atleast swap out the valve body! Though for a even longer lasting trans, with slightly better economy MPG, and also noticeably quicker performance, with that later select shift valve body add a good shift kit (TransGo) and a auxiliary trans cooler to have even better over all operation for a stock or performance build. For a hi performance engine build if you plan on rebuilding a C4 note that the later 1972 up C4's have all the Ford factory improvements, which can be incorporated into a rebuild. Good luck (y) :nod:

Thanks, Bubba! Back to the block, is there any performance reasons going from a 68 block to a 66 block would cause me? Any issues with getting my 68 stock c4 matched to the 66 block?

Thanks in advance!
 
I assume that the rebuilt engine your looking at is a long block which may or may not be compleate with all the bolt on parts. In any case the 1966 and 1968 short blocks are virtually identical i.e. Both with the duel bell housing patterns, so your 1968 C4 will bolt up to to the 66 block without issue.

Performance wise there are some differences in the top end parts and bolt on parts like the head, exhaust manifold, carb, distributor in many cases these 1968 parts are considerably better. To keep the best performance you should for sure use the better 1968 carb, Distributor, exhaust manafold.

As far as the head goes there isn't so much of a difference so don't worry as much about that unless the carb opening measures different than your 68 or that the 68 carb won't bolt on. In that case you may need to open up the carb opening in the head to at least 1 3/4 inch (which is good for performance), slot the carb's mounting base holes, or you can make a simple adapter plate to transition one size to the other. All other bolt on items from your 1968 will be purely for looks and won't mater that much, but I would likely use all or as many of the 1968 bolt on parts as possable in the swap just to maintain the 68 year accuracy. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Howdy Matt and All:

The stock '66 carb would be an Autolite 1100 rated at 185 cfm, with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) to mate with a Load-o-Matic type distributor. The stock '68 carb carb would be an Autolite 1100 rated at 150 cfm, with a ported vacuum source to be compatible with the '68 distributor with both vacuum and centrifugal advance. Does the new block include the carb? The distributor? IF not your '66 carb and distributor will fit the '68 block.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
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