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Smoke From Carb!

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chad
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no run after operating temp reached

Post #51 by chad » Sun Mar 15, 2020 10:50 pm

sometimes an over heated coil (not usually just frm reachin operating temp tho, as that's all the time its been running) will do that.
Other is vapor lock? Is fuel still flowing at that point?
Didn't others mention (a 3rd, 4th) the choke being fully open, & 'good fuel filter' ?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

bones 92
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #52 by bones 92 » Sun Mar 15, 2020 10:57 pm

I don't think its the coil, I was still getting spark when it wouldn't restart. (it was new in the fall, I know it could still fail)
Other is vapor lock? I can see some fuel trickling from the carb once it dies, but stops pretty quickly. and its pretty cold out tonight about 35. And choke being fully open, & 'good fuel filter' ? Choke is wide open and have 2 brand new filters, one pre pump and one post.
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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bubba22349
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #53 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:05 pm

bones 92 wrote:I don't think its the coil, I was still getting spark when it wouldn't restart. (it was new in the fall, I know it could still fail)
Other is vapor lock? I can see some fuel trickling from the carb once it dies, but stops pretty quickly. and its pretty cold out tonight about 35. And choke being fully open, & 'good fuel filter' ? Choke is wide open and have 2 brand new filters, one pre pump and one post.


If you can see fuel trickling down the carb throat after it dies than its still flooding from too high a fuel level. Recheck the needle and its seat plus the float level this should measure 5/16 inch. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Econoline
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #54 by Econoline » Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:21 pm

bones 92 wrote:So the Float is replaced


Edit: I just repeated the result, was frustrated after looking at it in the driveway tonight. Went out and it started with my foot depressed on the gas pedal, eventually could ease off and it started to idle. Checked the timing it was at 4degrees, ran for another couple minutes and then died and wouldn't restart. I've got to be close! (oil pressure reads at 45-50) is there something i'm totally missing?

(Every time I try to attach a photo it tell me the quota is full?)



It sounds like a carburetor problem to me. The bowl is empty and can't keep up eventually at idle even after being filled by cranking with the pedal wide open? I'd say filters b/c it's the same symptoms but you've fixed all of that. The pickup sock is clean, the tank is clean, the filters are new, the fuel pump is new 2x over. Did you get a chance to adjust the timing to 8 or 10*btdc? 4* is pretty low timing. Stock manual timing is 4-6* manual and 10-12* automatic. I think those are minimums. The float hangs level with the needle seated. The needle and seat are new, good and intact. Maybe the idle circuit is fouled up? What happens when you sustain higher rpms or blip the throttle? No vacuum leaks. Shaft is ok. Ignition is good? What is the ignition? Maybe you just need to get some fuel through it. It ran, it'll start again. Seems like a fuel problem, but ignition problems can be a bur in your saddle sometimes. Get you thinking all sorts of things ;)
It ain't gonna fix itself

bones 92
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #55 by bones 92 » Mon Mar 16, 2020 12:19 pm

Lots of info for me to check on still, but I got out there for an hour before work and got the float adjusted to 5/16ths, it’s not level anymore but it seems to have fixed the “trickling” :thumbup: it started up no problem after that, choke closed, let it warm and slowly opened the choke and it was idleing ok, I got the timing adjusted to 8 degrees and it was running almost smooth :nod: it eventually died but fired right back up and I checked for vacuum leaks and didn’t find any. I bilpped the throttle and it died on me again. Started right back up with the same result after blipping the throttle. One step closer! Thanks for all the help 8)
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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no difficulty ideling, dies on acceleration attempt when warm

Post #56 by chad » Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:21 pm

back 2 ign. Not a carb problem?
Is not advancing?
I forgot, am not reading the whole thread over - IDed it's not a SCV/LOM mis-match?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

bones 92
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #57 by bones 92 » Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:37 pm

Well it was raining today but got out to look for a few minutes, turns out this problem was stupidity; I was out of gas. :bang: After filling up, she started and idled a little rough, but would continue to run on throttle but would almost die after letting off but barely continue running. Looks like from here a little more tuning another valve adjustment and we will see how it goes from there! :beer:
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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chad
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uns beddah

Post #58 by chad » Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:51 pm

"rough"
is that frm pickin up the 54!+ at the bottom of the tank?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

bones 92
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Re: Uns Beddah

Post #59 by bones 92 » Mon Mar 16, 2020 11:01 pm

Tank is brand new, along with the sending unit :thumbup:
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #60 by Econoline » Mon Mar 16, 2020 11:43 pm

Sounds like you're getting there!
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #61 by bones 92 » Tue Mar 17, 2020 11:28 pm

More positive progress tonight! The ol' girl ran for over 30 minutes - longest since i've had it. The idle was pretty high even after warming up and eventually would kind of drop down and come back up and then go low enough to stall. After it warmed up the fuel pressure would drop to 0 on my gauge but continue running. I'm not sure what my issue is here but possibly a vacuum leak? I sprayed some wd-40 around the base of the carb and the fittings to the spark advance and the distributor and no change. I think it's almost there, anything I should check to get the idle lower and more consistent? Either way, I'll drain out the oil and drop the pan again after running the mystery oil and see how it worked (had some black smoke at startups). I'm thrilled with the help you all have given me and hope to continue getting this solved and "reliable" to drive. 8)
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Gas Vapor From Carb

Post #62 by chad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 12:01 am

"...to the spark advance and..."
it has the ol LOM dizzy to match, eh? (C the reference materials we suggested if unfamiliar).
Some swap out the SCV/LOM feed back system. Ur '62 makes that difficult.
For the 144ci I say - turbo, turbo, turbo !!!
(aaahahahaaa)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #63 by bubba22349 » Wed Mar 18, 2020 9:51 am

:beer: Excellent progress! If you haven't already set the all the valve lash with the engine warmed up good, refer back to post #10 for the settings viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80197#p622167

After that's been done then do all the carb settings with the engine warmed up good. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #64 by bones 92 » Sat Mar 21, 2020 6:59 pm

You all are going to think I am crazy but this Falcon is gonna make me loose my hair soon. After I had it running ok for a couple of days I got it pulled into the garage to do some fine tuning on carb settings and valve lash. I got the hot valve lash set right on the money. Called it a day. Now the past two days I am back to square one. Car starts rpm jumps and then stalls... not sure where to start. I went back though and reset the points, they are right on at .025. Is my old 144 just tired? I know I’m tired of it not running :rolflmao:
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #65 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 3:46 pm

bones 92 wrote:You all are going to think I am crazy but this Falcon is gonna make me loose my hair soon. After I had it running ok for a couple of days I got it pulled into the garage to do some fine tuning on carb settings and valve lash. I got the hot valve lash set right on the money. Called it a day. Now the past two days I am back to square one. Car starts rpm jumps and then stalls... not sure where to start. I went back though and reset the points, they are right on at .025. Is my old 144 just tired? I know I’m tired of it not running :rolflmao:


Yes the old 144 maybe a bit on the tired side from that first compression test but it should still run ok and may even improve some with use. So back to basics again. I think all of your tune up settings should be close enough until you solve this stalling / dying problem. So now focus on the carb fuel delivery and if there is an intermittent electrical problem these are the likely causes of it not running reliabile.

On electrical check that you still have a spark, a few times I had a problem starting / or running real bad where the Condenser had become loose or wasn't even tightened down to the distribors point plate looking at it you couldn't see a problem. Or the distrbitor body not grounding usally due to being very dirty. Also had a few were the Distribitor lead wire to coil had bad spots in the outer insolation were it had crumbled or cracked and was shorting out to the distribtor's body. Also found some were the wire was broken inside the insolation so looked ok yet it wasn't making a conection sometimes (intermittent) these are very hard to trace. If the cars wiring is orginal there is a good chance for these kinds of problems after all the heat cycles the wiring has went through during its lifetime. These things can be very hard to find somtimes you can feel the break inside (wire will feel very weak or flimsy in a broken area, a good test light and volt / ohm meter is very helpful in finding those kind of problems. Somtimes it just better to replace some questionable wires or an entire harness on the engine. Plus of course you also need good clean and tite grounds from the battery to the engine, from the engine to the chassis, and from the chassis to the body and dash. As greasy and grimy as your engine looks this may be some trouble.a battery can loose a 1/2 volt or more just from having dirt on the top. No your not crazy it can and is tuff finding all these little problems you have made tremendous progress on bring your Falcon back from its 20 year slumber keep at it your really close now.

When it shuts off what do the plugs look like still dry or wet? Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #66 by bones 92 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 6:33 pm

Thanks as always! I went back to basics today checked wiring and backtracked everything I have done, checking grounds and cleaning anything that had some debris in it now. I had it running for about 5 minutes max today after I dropped the pan again cleaned (it had a lot of junk in it) and did a fresh oil change. Seemed to like the fresh oil. So I did another compression check and I am SHOCKED how much it changed, I have run all sorts of cleaners through it since I got it and maybe thats why it has changed? Anyway:
1:65
2:135
3:140
4:135
5:135
6:140

Squired some oil in 1 and it shot up to 100

I think this means the ring is shot? Any suggestions before total teardown to fix the ring?
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #67 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:29 pm

Yes that lots different on the compression test, so with all your cleaning, doing the valve lash, and the fresh oil changes most of the the rings may have loosened up to seal better plus you have very good oil pressure. Yes there is a problem on #1 with that low of compression is not even half compared to all the other 5 cylinders that are all very good compression its going run quite ruff. Try checking the lash on #1 again to verify its right you could maybe try putting some more of your MM oil in that hole and let it set for awhile to see if it improves otherwise you will need to pull the head and check the valve seat seal on # 1 and at that point maybe pull that piston too check the rings are free (they maybe stuck) and condition of the bore it needs to be about 130 or more to match up with the others to run good. Good luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Teardown begins

Post #68 by bones 92 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:47 pm

Ok Another compression test today, same results. low in #1. So disassembly has begun. I have done well so far, I got the head off and set aside. I am currently trying to get the piston out and maybe there is a trick before I bang on it too hard. The piston moves freely in the cylinder but when the first ring gets to the top of the block it gets stuck. I have it soaking in some wd-40 now hoping that helps me slip it out. Advise?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CLZVl ... UFWL-GGtyo
Ok well the thread name probably doesn't fit anymore, If I should start a new topic let me know. for now :beer:
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Rebuild Guidelines /or/ not

Post #69 by chad » Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:49 am

yeah, I'd agree, new thread...
Stuck cuz these things will run forever.
#1 cyl wall will B like an hour glass at the top (opposite? U know what I mean)
RIDGE
B nice to see Y, as U disassemble look close to C Y. I'd expect #3'n 4. May B U can see...
1st Q fix in or out of car, go to different engine or not (I'd say). Check'er out as U go...
(I can't C anything in da pic)

Same ol Q for all automotive decisions - whats the final applications.?.
Whatever the decision, we're here, cheerin ya on bra :thumbup:
EDIT:
oh,no what am I sayin~
"6 or 1" should more likely get that",
right?
Last edited by chad on Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #70 by bubba22349 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:03 am

X2 Take your thumbnail if you can feel a ridge in the cylinder at the top of the block you will need a ridge reamer to cut it out in order to get the pistion out without damaging it. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #71 by Econoline » Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:44 am

You might as well just pull the head now. Save yourself more trouble and put eyes on that #1 cylinder. If it's the piston or rings you'll definitely need to borrow/rent a ridge reamer from your local auto parts store to safely get the piston out in situ. But it can be done. I helped swap a #6 piston and get the head rebuilt in 2 weeks with a stranded friend. That 170 is still running well to this day, now in Holland. No doggie doo.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #72 by bones 92 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 9:27 am

Thanks guys, I got it out this morning, soaked overnight and wiped as much build up off as I could and it was enough to come free. Piston looks likes it’s in ok shape and the bore has a little scrape in it, doesn’t seem major, although I know it shouldn’t be there. I don’t have access or funds to pull the motor and go to a machine shop. The rings seem worn but the middle ring is pretty much stuck in the piston; I’m thinking that was the problem. While it’s out I’ll probably go ahead and pull the rest re ring all of them, do a good cleaning on the valves, springs and push rods. If there is any damage I’ll report back. If there is a topic I should read before going through everything let me know. As always thanks for the help and support!
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #73 by jamyers » Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:26 am

Once you scrape the carbon off, how big is the difference between the ridge at the top of the cylinders and the cylinder wall below it? That'll tell you how much the cylinders have worn, and if it really needs boring and new pistons (doesn't sound like it so far).

Please, beg or borrow a ridge reamer to clean / cut the ridge back to the cylinder walls, because:
* it'll make getting pistons and rings in and out SO much easier
* you can damage the piston's ring lands / grooves as you remove them
* the upper corner of the old rings and the lower corner ridge have worn themselves together with rounded edges - and the new rings will have sharp 90 edges which will then "slam" into the rounded edges of the bottom of the ridge - dramatically shortening ring life at best.

Also, running a cylinder hone would be a good idea, to break the glaze on the cylinder walls and help the new rings seat.
James - '62 Ranchero (200cid), '71 LeSabre (464cid)

The ONLY safety device we need is a 6" sharpened steel spike bolted to the center of the steering wheel of EVERY vehicle.
Emergency Rooms and Funeral Homes will be busy for a week or so, then I predict a dramatic drop in vehicle accidents.

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #74 by jamyers » Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:33 am

Where are you located? Chances are decent that there's a FordSixer near you, or we can point you to somebody who could help you borrow a ridge reamer, etc.

Also: If you haven't done so already, look around for local car clubs, car shows, "cars and coffee" meetups, etc. Go, meet some folks, and share what you're doing - changes are EXCELLENT that you'll find somebody local who'd love to give advice, loan a tool, maybe even some over on a Saturday and lend a hand in exchange for pizza and beer lunchies. I've moved around quite a lot in my life, and always found that plugging into the "local car scene" is a good thing to do.
James - '62 Ranchero (200cid), '71 LeSabre (464cid)

The ONLY safety device we need is a 6" sharpened steel spike bolted to the center of the steering wheel of EVERY vehicle.
Emergency Rooms and Funeral Homes will be busy for a week or so, then I predict a dramatic drop in vehicle accidents.

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #75 by bones 92 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:58 am

Thanks Jamyers, I am located in Joliet Illinois, south of Chicago. If someone is local I’d love the help! I will clean the piston up tonight and take a better look. And the ridge isn’t too bad, it can be felt with bare hands but it seems alright. Not sure if there is a way to determine if I will need to hone, the engine only has 40,000 miles but I could be wrong. I can take photos tonight if that would help!
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #76 by bubba22349 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:17 pm

If you plan to install a set of new rings than yes you will need to first cut the ridge out of the bores, clean the short block really well' then hone the bores so the new rings will seal a budget ball type hone will do the job. The pistions will need to be cleaned of carbon deposits and the ring groves will need to have the carbon scrapped out with a ring grove cleaner tool so the new rings can fit properly, plus a Torque Wrench for reassembly of the engine. X2 usually most of these tools can be borrowed from one of your local auto parts stores.

To accolish an overhaul of the short block for a very low cost get a rering kit, Falcon Gobial has a good quality kit for $115.00 (plus tax in some states) with free shipping (See the below link). The kit comes with new rings, rod bearings, and a full gasket set, depending on the condition of the chrankshaft mains you could also add those bearings. Add to this a new set of freeze plugs for the short block and head, and maybe a new timing chain set if there's any slop in yours then yes replace it for sure, you will maybe be at about $200.00 to $300.00 for parts and some of the optional items below for the compleated short block plus your time. Add to that a valve job (check your local machine shops for their prices) and a .025 surface cut on head (to compensate for the thicker head gaskets) and your done with the long block overhaul. However if your really short on funds than if the heads valve seats, guides, and valves look to be in fairly good condition you might be able to get by with just hand lapping them yourself this is very inexpensive.

Again If your budget is really streached to the limit these items are also Optional first would be a hot tank or Jet wash of block, head, and other parts, usally not that much when included with other work shuch as a valve job and well worth this cost to get everthing really clean, cam bearings need to be replaced if the block is hot tanked but not always nessisary if it's Jet washed with the camshaft left in the block, last a can or two of spray paint if you want to also detail the engine while you have it out.

After everthing is dissasembled and parts are checked for their condition and cleaned you can order your ReRing Kit. Keep the lifters in the order they came out of the block unless you are planing to also replace the cam and lifters too. Check the camshaft and lifters bottoms for wear replace if they are worn. A stock reground cam (cheapest option) plus a new set of lifters will probally add $100.00 to $150.00, hopefully you might be ok in their condition. There are also performance cams available from Vintage Inlines our site sponsor. Look at the tops of the pistions for oversize markings so you can get the correct sizes. No markings is a Standard size, .030, .040, .060 ect. are oversizes. Also check the back of rod and main bearings for markings again no mark, FoMoCo in oval, or Std. Is standard, .010, .020, .030 ect. are undersized. Since you have good oil pressure your oil is probably in good usable condition or you could replace it with a new one. That should just about do the compleate long block engine overhaul. Since your engine runs and has good oil pressure, good compression except for the number one cylinder being weak I have a hunch that you can get by without a lot of expense replacing only the very worn parts and some minimum amount of work. Your doing a great job on your little 1962 Falcon keep it up best of luck :thumbup: :nod:

Ford 144 six ReRing Kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-rering-en ... xySy9SQbUX
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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jamyers
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #77 by jamyers » Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:14 pm

On the other hand, with the above compression numbers, you could probably just keep soaking that piston ring in penetrating oil until it loosens up, then *carefully* remove it, clean it and the grooves up, reinstall, reassemble, and be on your way.
James - '62 Ranchero (200cid), '71 LeSabre (464cid)

The ONLY safety device we need is a 6" sharpened steel spike bolted to the center of the steering wheel of EVERY vehicle.
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chad
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new thread, what's nxt?

Post #78 by chad » Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:56 pm

'e sez "40K on this motor" - sound like that 2 U?

I'd get the Handbook'n follow /or/ do a #2 offa the above 'tech archive' ~ then go TURBO, TURBO ! aaahahahaaaa

I'd luv to get my hands on onea these (as U might tell).
That /or/ place the 6 Keihns on'em:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPbtXHqyh8g
(last 19 sec is the place ta go). But you'all heard that B4...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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wsa111
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #79 by wsa111 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:32 pm

From past experience, if you remove a piston or pistons from the block then reinstall you will have an oil burner.
If so rehone the cylinders & install new rings.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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bones 92
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Bad news?

Post #80 by bones 92 » Wed Mar 25, 2020 12:33 am

What I though was a little scrape, I wiped everything down good and it may be deep enough where a hone won't be enough to smooth it out. I'll toss up a picture and you guys can let me know if this is to far gone. The ring was cracked, I am assuming the ring scraped the wall and left me with a bigger problem than anticipated : https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

As of now I'm planning on renting a rim reamer and a honing tool to see results. And hopefully do the rering kit.

Final goal for the car: I wasn't looking to do a total restoration but fix small issues (which i passed up now) and see if I can get it back on the road. And on a budget haha!
1962 Falcon Barn Find: Stock 144, LOM & SVC holley 1909. Freshly "rebuilt" new rings, bearings, and overall cleanup on all engine components. Almost up and running, starts and idles but no vroom vroom. :beer:

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Econoline
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #81 by Econoline » Wed Mar 25, 2020 12:39 am

That looks pretty gnarly to me.

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Last edited by Econoline on Thu Mar 26, 2020 12:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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bubba22349
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #82 by bubba22349 » Wed Mar 25, 2020 1:32 am

X2 yes though it's not ideal (compared to a fresh bore job and new Pistons the best way if you can afford that) still a hone and fresh set of rings will help ii some. nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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chad
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new thread: rebuild...

Post #83 by chad » Wed Mar 25, 2020 9:30 am

now THAT pic I can C.
(like ur shaggy supervisor) :lol:
I'd wrk that cyl, back together, and run it (esp ina low budget rehab).
Ck #6 too. Still wonder Y just the 1 went bad?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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bubba22349
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #84 by bubba22349 » Wed Mar 25, 2020 1:31 pm

jamyers wrote:On the other hand, with the above compression numbers, you could probably just keep soaking that piston ring in penetrating oil until it loosens up, then *carefully* remove it, clean it and the grooves up, reinstall, reassemble, and be on your way.


Jamyers above idea is also good, since you got that #1 pistion out and found its broken ring you could leave all the other pistions alone since they all have good compression. You can actually buy a single set of rings (for one cylinder see below link) cut the ridge out, ball hone that cylinder, clean that pistion up, install the new rings and put it back togeather, a quick patch up. :nod:

Single Ring set
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsn-2m582s030
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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bubba22349
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Re: Smoke From Carb!

Post #85 by bubba22349 » Wed Mar 25, 2020 2:32 pm

Also set your head level on a table with the combustion chambers facing up then poor some gas in the chamber and then check inside of the ports for leakage into them if they stay dry your good to go on the head. So with above fix and this should have minimal outlay of funds. The goal would be to get within 10% or less of the highest compression cylinder (the others are within 3.575%) for a decent running engine so 126 to 140 on #1 this would be the great, even if you could get only within 15% it would work decent at 119. Good luck. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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