Click Here -> Please Consider Making a PayPal Contribution to the FordSix Forum!
2019 Contributors:
NJwpod, 1strodeo, mightynorseman, maxtrux, 6d7coupe, broncr, Phase3, 68Flareside240, bmbm40,
mustang6, WorldChampGramp, justintendo, BigBlue94, ags290, motorsickle1130, Rooster, ousooner919, ethanperry
rzcrisis, DoctorC, jamyers, Motorboy, fastpat, Silverback280, chad


<<< New Site Update >>>

still an inline question

Moderator: Mod Squad

rmousir
Registered User
Posts: 162
Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 4:07 pm
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Contact:

still an inline question

Post #1 by rmousir » Wed Oct 01, 2003 10:59 am

Hey all,
I have been reading this forum for a while. In addition to my 66 coupe inline 6 I have a 91 Jeep cherokee inline 4.0 six. My question is in regards to that motor. It is a 5 sp 2 wh drive. I have a oil leak and I believe it is coming from the rear main seal. How hard is this to change? What steps do I take in changing the seal? any advice would be great. Thanks very much for your time and for the forums. :D
66 Coupe
Blue with White stripes
302 auto, LOTS OF MODS!
Check out my site:
http://www.budgetrestomod.weebly.com

User avatar
CobraSix
VIP Member
Posts: 4214
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 7:31 am
Location: Houston, TX (ugg)
Contact:

Post #2 by CobraSix » Wed Oct 01, 2003 11:10 am

rear main seals are pains in general. I think on the jeep, if it is like my old one, they basically can do it by removing the tranny, bellhousing, and they can do it that way. But it's been awhile (since 92) since I've seen it done, so I may be way off.

Slade
Slade
My Website
My How to's
Image

Engine: 200 CI, Oz 250 modified for 4V Holley 390CFM, DS II Ignition, 40kV Flamethrower, MSD Digital 6+
Drivetrain: Cable Clutch, V-8 T5, 8" 5 Lug Rear End, 5-Lug SSBC Front Brakes, 3.40:1 Posi

rmousir
Registered User
Posts: 162
Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 4:07 pm
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Contact:

Post #3 by rmousir » Thu Oct 02, 2003 8:12 am

Thanks Slade,

So I am thinking I have to pull the tranny and bell housing to access the seal then pop it back together. How difficult is this job for someone who has never pulled a tranny before?
66 Coupe
Blue with White stripes
302 auto, LOTS OF MODS!
Check out my site:
http://www.budgetrestomod.weebly.com

Lazy JW
FSP Moderator
Posts: 5560
Joined: Fri May 16, 2003 10:25 pm
Location: Careywood, Idaho

Post #4 by Lazy JW » Thu Oct 02, 2003 9:32 am

I agree with Slade, rear mains are a pain. But it is also rewarding to do it yourself, get a good repair manual and jump right in there. You will need a good floor jack and some good blocking material. Even a small transmission can get heavy and smash a finger or two when it pops out of there. I assume that it is a manual trans. The clutches are always fun to line up. You will need the little special clutch alignment tool, but I have actually had better luck just lining them up by eyeball. I don't know for sure if you will have to disturb the clutch on that engine or not. Anyway, get in there and have fun, you can't learn any younger :)
Joe
"The White OX" 1974 F-350 300-6, Stock single exhaust, Carter YF, T-18A, Dana70 w/4.11, Flatbed dually w/dump bed. "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean, but much increase is by the strength of the ox" (Proverbs 14:4)
Image

farna

Post #5 by farna » Wed Jan 28, 2004 8:58 am

I hope you changed the seal by now! It's a two piece steel backed neoprene seal. No need to drop tranny, just oil pan and rear main bearing cap. Botom half is easy, you might want to loosen the other main caps to get the top in and out. The lower half will need starting out with a brass punch, then rotate crank by hand (you might want to pull the sparkers...) while pulling on the seal with pliers (a helper is necessary...). Now carefully put the new top half in and rotate the crank (without the nail) to push the top half back in place. That's the hard part. A little silicone sprayed on it (but not anything thick like motor oil, and no WD-40 -- it can swell the neoprene!) will help it around. Then reassemble everything and torqu all main cap bolts.

May as well look at the condition of the main bearings while you're there. The top half can be removed easy enough. Take a 16d nail and cut it off about 1/2" long. Put that in the main journal oil hole and rotate the crank by hand. Nail head will catch top half and push it out. Make sure nail head isn't scratching the block though (no tight fit). Also make sure you rotate it so the locking notch comes out first!

geezer_D

Post #6 by geezer_D » Wed Jan 28, 2004 9:24 pm

Thanks Frank for catching up on the AMC posts. Need your fountain of knowledge checking these out! :D

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest