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144 clutch adjustment and timing question

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144 clutch adjustment and timing question

Post #1 by falcon_master » Fri Sep 14, 2018 11:29 am

Hi everyone hope it’s going well for you all. I’m here with another update for my falcon, today I’m talking about the clutch and how to adjust it. I still need to replace the TO and PB but I wanna know for when I’m done with that, from what I understand there’s the clutch to pedal equalizer rod as ford calls it with two nuts on it, you wanna measure the total pedal spring distance and the “free play” and try to adjust the equalizer rod to obtain the correct measurements of pedal travel correct? My second thing is what should I dial the timing to on this guy. Currently I’m running 8 degrees BTD and it idles pretty clean and revs snappy but I want to know if there’s a better number to run. Thanks everyone I think I’m starting to get this engine dialed, after reading your comments I think I’m to lazy to drop the pan for no reason as I’m not hearing noise there’s no oil contamination and I have good pressure so I’ll say it’s at least ok. My main worries is clutch and trans now lol gotta get that fixed. And another question about generators can they support the load of headlights and charging my phone through a cigarette lighter at the same time or will that kill it lol. Thanks.
Junior year high school AFJROTC cadet and car enthusiast. Likes all things ford and engines of any company. 64 falcon 2dr sedan,144CI and 3spd column shift. estimated 124,000 miles. Resurrected after sitting outside for 18 years, In process fixing for use as daily driver YouTube channel for repairs coming soon. “Old cars may break but are never broken”-RCR

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Re: 144 clutch adjustment and timing question

Post #2 by 62Cometman » Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:04 pm

For the clutch pedal adjustment your on the right track you will want to use the 2 adjusting nuts to move the z-bar mount to the pedal up or down to get the right free play. As for the timing stick with stock or slightly more i ended up putting 12 degrees into my engine even though it only called for 8 degrees. Go with what runs good in the car, but be careful not to give it too much and run into pre-ignition. The original generators were only designed to produce 30 amps at full charge meaning its more likely to produce upper 20s which is pretty low so be weary. look at the wattage rating for your bulbs and on the charger they are usually listed, then you can calculate roughly how many amps they take. based off 13-13.5 volts running. Give a 5-7 amps buffer to supply power to the rest of the circuits in the system like the gauges and ignition. so id say keep it below 18-20 amps to be safe
1962 Mercury Comet 170 ci, Dagenham Trans, 2.83:1 7.25 rear.
She ain't fast but she's fun. 8)

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Re: 144 clutch adjustment and timing question

Post #3 by StarDiero75 » Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:40 pm

In your case, i wouldnt touch your timing. If it runs smooth and no hesitations, dont touch it lol.
If it aint broke dont fix it.

Your clutch free play should be about an inch. I have a yard stick that i put through the horn ring and measure an inch of travel based on that. But make sure your clutch and brake pedal are even when yoy do that. If not, itll be improper adjustment.

Good luck,
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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