1968 Mustang inline 6 200ci, manual 3 speed questions

Howdy Again:

"One other thing I was wondering is what I can use cylinders heads from that will fit this 1968 200ci engine... Will a newer inline 6 fuel injected of any sort work?"

The 200/250 never got to FI. They were discontinued in 1983, for all practical purposes. The best head for an upgrade would be from a 1978 and later. Casting codes of D8xx to E0xx. These later heads will have a bigger intake valve, 1.65" to 1.75", a larger carb hole, up from 1.5" to 1.75", induction hardened valve seats, and a larger intake tract volume, up from 1100 ccs to approximately 1,400 ccd, depending on the casting.

The only down side to the later head is that the combustion volume was increased from approximately 52 ccs to 62 ccs, accounting for a one point drop in advertised Compression Ratio (CR). To maintain a 9:1 CR the later head will need to be milled approximately .050". FYI the factory head gaskets are a stamped metal of .025". They are no longer available. Modern composite head gaskets are approximately .050" thick, so another .025" must be milled off of the head to compensate.

So start scouting your local recycle yard for a Fairmont/mustang/Granada or their Mercury cousins for a head to rebuild for the future. While your there take a look at the DuraSpark II electronic ignition. Someday you'll want that too. Get the Distributor, coil, module, spark plug wires and wiring harness too.

Questions?

Adios, David

Adios, David
 
Yeah, the carburetor throttle bore is definitely larger than the intake because when I first go it, it would not go over 45 mph and had low power. Took everything apart and rebuilt it and then still had no power and throttle wouldn't open close to as much as it did when it was off the vehicle, figured it out and it was to to that throttle plate hitting the intakes smaller hole. So I put two 1/8" thick gaskets that were a tad larger diameter then the intake hole and used them as a spacer in between the intake and the carb. Seems to work great so far and doesn't seem to be leaking around them I also used a tad bit of gasket sealant on them. So Is the float in the bowl supposed to be at the same height as all the other 1100's? Also when you guys adjust your heat choke do you just turn it til right when it closes then stop? It's cold here right now so I think maybe that's what I should do, but as of right now I its adjusted til its completely closed and then about an extra 1/4". Thanks for all the opinions and help everyone it is highly appreciated. I tried to post a pic on my business website but I can't remember my login username. And that also means I can't reset the password.
 
:unsure: That doesn't look quite right and lots of sources of vacuum leaks. The brass plug would have been the Vacuum port that originally went to the Distributor's vacuum advance it's also blocking the stud at the carbs base and there is no nut and washer on it and you need that for sure. The other 5/16 or 1/4 inch vacuum line from the manifold port (double brass block below the carb) shouldn't be going to the top of carb if you still have the 1968 stock type air cleaner with a vacuum motor to control warm air duck from exhaust Manafold hooked up to the air cleaners snorkel it would be connected to a port on the bottom of air cleaner base. :shock: The T hooked up to the PCV valve shouldn't be there it needs to be removed so just one 3/8 inch hose from carb base is only hooked into the PCV. The other 3/8 hose going to choke hosing dose belong remove it, there should be a steel line hooked up there (the choke stove tube) that goes down to a hole in the exhaust Manafold. Good luck :nod: edited
 
Hey Bubba thanks for all the info it is really appreciated. So what do you think I should do on the hoses. That's what I was thinking before iis that they didn't look right with the T fitting so should I remove the brass plug and find a way to hook the hose there and then just run that to the distributor and the air box I believe is original, there is a fitting for a larger tubd on the air box and that has a tube running to the valve cover breather towards the front of the engine. What should I do about the heat choke? Do you think I should install a steel hose to the exhaust? And if so, how far from the headers? Thank you.
 
1968Mustang200ciManual":ic71nuaz said:
Hey Bubba thanks for all the info it is really appreciated. So what do you think I should do on the hoses. That's what I was thinking before iis that they didn't look right with the T fitting so should I remove the brass plug and find a way to hook the hose there and then just run that to the distributor and the air box I believe is original, there is a fitting for a larger tubd on the air box and that has a tube running to the valve cover breather towards the front of the engine. What should I do about the heat choke? Do you think I should install a steel hose to the exhaust? And if so, how far from the headers? Thank you.

:unsure: On the PCV disconnect both the T and the short hose. Next run the long hose straight from the carb base then conect it to the PCV if it's too short get a new longer 3/8 inch hose. Remove the brass plug and get a hose nipple fitting that matches the same diameter as the vacuum fitting of the distributors vacuum advance can, then run a new lenght of hose line that is the proper size Conecting them both together. Turn your air cleaner base upside down you should see two vacuum hose nipples fittings next to each other, one of them goes to the that manafold vacuum fitting with the hose that is now connected to the carb top, the other hose should be connected to the vacuum motor on top of the air cleaner snorkel. Yes you will need to hook up the steel tube to the hole on the exhaust Manafold if you want the choke to work. If you don't have the steel tube you can make out of a lenght of brake line or they make universal kits that you can find at most any good auto parts store. Good luck :nod:
 
No they aren't electric it is run by Vacuum. In any case yours looks to have a manual lever control for the warm air. So in that case you can just plug that vacuum port on the Manifold. :nod:
 
Plug the hold on the manifold or on the aircleaner box? And how would it be manually adjusted? Thanks for the quick replys I hope I'm not making you stay up too late.
 
:unsure: From that picture air cleaner is installed correctly. I can also see that the distributor vacuum hose has been conect the the Manafold vaccum brass block on the lower line, so you could plug that hose nipple too and run that line to the carb fitting. Good luck :nod:
 
Plug them both at the Manafold. Looking at the front of air cleaner snorkle look for the the wire lever with loop I see it in your last picture. This is the manual control to open a door inside the snorkel letting the warm air into the carb in one position and closes it off so no warm air comes in the other position.
 
If there is one hose nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner base then run a hose from it to the fitting on the top of the carb. Good luck :nod:
 
Where are you located Bubba? Also I honestly don't see any lever near the air box. So the manifold right below the carb plug both of those holes? So where should I run the single house from the pcv valve? I will try to do it all correctly and take pictures after so you can let me know if I did it correctly haha
 
1968Mustang200ciManual":w1hlrnw4 said:
Where are you located Bubba?

1. I am in Flagstaff, Az.

Also I honestly don't see any lever near the air box.

2. Follow the black duck hose that's coming up from the exhaust Manafold to the bottom of the air cleaners snorkel. It's right above that black hose on the snorkel if you standing on the drivers side fender you should be able to see it.

So the manifold right below the carb plug both of those holes?

3. Yes plug them with vacuum caps.

Ok I will try to do it all correctly and take pictures after so you can let me know if I did it correctly haha

Ok that sounds good, best of luck :nod:
 
the 'manual lever' U just open in the summer by openin the hood, close it in the winter. There's a flaper door connected to it.

The "steel break line choke tube" draws heat up (heat rises) from the ex manafold to the bimetal choke spring behind that black cover and expands/contracts to move the choke.

Keep talkin -
 
Howdy Back:

Wow! thanks for the photo. Quite a mystery. How does your choke work for you? It appears to be getting hot air from manifold vacuum and not the typical exhaust manifold heated air. Can you tell me anything about the shroud around the exhaust?

FYI, for the distributor vacuum advance to work as designed it needs a ported vacuum source from the carb. It appears that your advance is coming from a manifold vacuum source. Can you verify what is happening to the advance with a timing light.

It appears a previous owner has done some modifying. Do you know the previous owner? I'll bet he/she has some good information and stories to tell.

Bubba's got you pretty well lined out on getting back to OEM.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
"...some good information and stories to tell…."
yeah, esp bout the use of that "heater duct" coil commin offa the exh. manifold!

You don't state yer location in ur signature/avatar area - where R U in this great big ol land of ours?
That'll give me a clue to this riddle (even if I don't go off in the right direction it will be fun to speculate).

8-0
 
I'm in Billings, Montana, USA. I know the previous owner he is a hunting buddy of mine. He got the car with a manual choke so I believe that owner did all the modifying of the tubing/hoses and he replaced it with a heat choke. The heat choke tube is connected to the pcv valve arear and that is propably why it runs rich, because the choke won't open as normal. Do you guys see the one way valve connect to the tubing to the distributor, us that supposed to be there? Thanks again.
 
1968Mustang200ciManual":2a8e7jy1 said:
I'm in Billings, Montana, USA. I know the previous owner he is a hunting buddy of mine. He got the car with a manual choke so I believe that owner did all the modifying of the tubing/hoses and he replaced it with a heat choke. The heat choke tube is connected to the pcv valve arear and that is propably why it runs rich, because the choke won't open as normal. Do you guys see the one way valve connect to the tubing to the distributor, us that supposed to be there? Thanks again.

The one check valve installed there is fine and won't cause any problems, Ford started using them on their engines around the late 1960's as part of the emission systems. Your Mustang seams to have had the Federal emissions system. Good luck :nod:
 
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