1968 Mustang inline 6 200ci, manual 3 speed questions

Ok guys, i worked on it a little today I removed the check valve and just put a new 5/32" line in. Would it be fine to remove the check valve in the line between the distributor and carb vacuum port? I will post a few pics tomorrow when I get it done. There is no ports on the bottom of the air box, so I don't know if I should just plug that upper carb vacuum Bubba? Or? Also on the exhaust manifold I found where the heat choke tube used to be. They welded it shut, should I just just drill a new hole close to there and run some type of tube from the choke to it? And is it just a press in tube to the manifold? Thanks.
 
1968Mustang200ciManual":2qq8bnv2 said:
Ok guys, i worked on it a little today I removed the check valve and just put a new 5/32" line in. Would it be fine to remove the check valve in the line between the distributor and carb vacuum port?

1. With or without the check won't make much of a difference.

I will post a few pics tomorrow when I get it done. There is no ports on the bottom of the air box, so I don't know if I should just plug that upper carb vacuum Bubba? Or?

2. Sure cap them both off. This is most important at the Manifold though so it's not a vacuum leak as it is now and then at the carb top so it doesn't allow dirt to be sucked into carb.

Also on the exhaust manifold I found where the heat choke tube used to be. They welded it shut, should I just just drill a new hole close to there and run some type of tube from the choke to it?

3. That's not so good the exhaust Manafold is supposed to also have a tube that runs though to the bottom of the Manafold and is open to the air. This is so the air is warmed up as it flows through the tube on its way up to the choke body but you wouldn't want the exhaust gas and carbon flowing up into the choke body to gum it up.

And is it just a press in tube to the manifold?

4. Yes the original tube was swaged on the end to press into the inner tube running through the exhaust Manafold. It had a cloth like cover for insulation too.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

:unsure: You need to see if the tube is still coming through the bottom of the exhaust man. Then you would need to redrill out the hole on the top. If you don't have the original stove tube for the carb you might try a universal choke tube kit or make a tube from brake or fuel line coiling it around the exhaust man. Good luck :nod:
 
Through the exhaust? So its suppose to go all the way through the top of the manifold and out the bottom? Ok I will try and figure it out, how big does the steel hose have to be? Is brake line large enough inner diameter?
 
1968Mustang200ciManual":2q35jw6x said:
Through the exhaust? So its suppose to go all the way through the top of the manifold and out the bottom?

1. Yes

Ok I will try and figure it out, how big does the steel hose have to be?

2. I think it is 1/4 or 3/16 inch OD. You will need the brass compression fitting that fits on the carbs choke body also.

Is brake line large enough inner diameter?
Click to expand...

3. Yes a brake line Of the right OD size will be the right size inside too. You could also check your local wrecking yards to see if you can find an original part many other Fords will use that same size line. Also you could look for one of the universal choke repair kits too at your local auto parts store, an example of how it looks is in the below link. That kit might be the fastest way to repair it. Good luck :nod:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-5 ... leSwitchNo
 
Howdy all:

The exhaust manifold hot air hole is a tube that draws unfiltered air thru the tube cast into the exhaust manifold to a metal tube up to the choke housing by engine vacuum. IMHO, it is not one of Fords better ideas. Sucking hot, unfiltered air into the carb! Not good. That is why I asked, how is your choke working using hot air to open the choke?

IF you change to a hot air tube be sure to wrap it with some heat proof material. If you don't you are likely to brand your hand or arm. Don't even think of asking me how I know. From the factory this tube was covered by an asbestos wove sleeve- also not a good idea.

How well does your choke work plumbed as it is? IF it works, this may not be a bad idea.

Also the tube cast through the exhaust manifold would rust out, break out or just wear away causing a bad exhaust leak. It was not unusual to plug a damaged one with a screw. So look it over carefully.

Did you check to see if your vacuum advance is working, and how well? That's the place to start. Also, get as much info about why it is this way and who did it.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
:unsure: So how are you doing on the repairs? If the choke is to big a problem to fix right now you could focus on all the other items and just loosen the lock screws and set the choke cover full lean and or tie the choke blade so it is at full open. All the other recommended repairs would be very quick, easy, and relatively low in cost they should make a major difference in how it runs. Good luck :nod:
 
Well I got all the hoses and every thing in order how you guys said and it didn't run worth crap, adjusted the choke to open sooner and now it started up and seems to be doing good. Then I saw smoke coming from the radiator, so I looked at the radiator fan and and it wasn't spinning and there was no serpentine belt! Is there supposed to be two serpentine belts side by side 1 running the fan, alternator and water pump and another one just running the fan and water pump?
 
:unsure: Most of the base 200 Mustangs without Power steering and Air Condistioning have just one belt to turn the water pump, fan, and alternator But some had duel belts too a picture of the front dress of your engine will help to know what you should have. :shock: Anyway dont run your engine very long with out a working water pump, fan and alternator! Dose your water pump still turn free, also the Alt.? Good luck :nod: Edited
 
"...fan and and it wasn't spinning…"
OK, that's a good sign - 1)you're observant and, 2) correcting more problems (means closer to the end) !
Yer getting there, closer to good runnin rig.

With this one you may have lots of things to correct (OP might have been a tinker).
/OR/
it wuz good stuff he did. Keep talkin to him if U can -
& we'll keep talkin 2 U!
 
Alright, does seem to be running better so far... The 2 mins I had it running til I shut it off. I will definitely take pics tomorrow. And I will also see if it has any extra power, and let you guys know!
 
:beer: excellent you might have to do a little bit of retuning to get the best performance out of it. :nod:

:unsure: A Compression test will tell you a lot about the condistion of your motor too.

Basic tune up to get your Mustang running its best follow this order for the quickest way to get tuned up and also these are the stock general tune up specs!

1. Set your Spark Plug Gap to .034 and reinstall them.

2. Now set the Point Dwell to 39 degrees.

3. Next set your Base Timing to 10 degrees BTDC for a manual trans with Vacuum line to the Distributor disconnected and plugged. Reconnect the vacuum line to the distributor. This is good starting point for a stock 200 six engine, but you can also try 12 degrees later to see if your engine likes that.

4. You should verify that the float level setting (the wet fuel level) is correct on your Autolite carb.

5. Next set your carb mixture setting to the lean best idle, the basic setting after a carb rebuild is 1 1/2 turns out. Then with a tach hooked up and the engine is first warmed up to normal operating temp. Turn the mixture screw in until idle speed drops slightly then turn the screw out until you reach its highest idle RPM then turn screw in 1/4 turn (to Lean it) this is your lean best idle setting.

6. Last set the Curb Idle RPM (500 to 600 RPM).

7. If you get the choke parts hooked up and working then it needs to be adjusted or also checked too. Auto choke cover is set to about 2 index marks past center Index Mark on the Rich side. And with the fast idle screw set on the fast idle cam index Mark (>) you will want to adjust screw so the Fast Idle is from 1200 to 1400 RPM or at just a high enough RPM so that when the car is still cold it will drive without stalling. Check when the engine is warm up good to operating temperature that when you blip the throdle that it resets the choke linkage and is coming off of the Fast Idle cam and that the choke blade is to fully open. Recheck this setup again after the engine is compleatly cold to see if it is working properly.

For the best results I usually repeat steps 5 & 6 just to verify that the carb RPM settings are right on. Good luck :nod:
 
:beer: (y) Good job everything looks good on all the vacuum lines. Dose the choke now operate correctly with the choke repair kit is installed? Yes those coolant recovery tanks should have a fill line on it for the level the coolant. Yes the radiator will both draw from the recovery tank and flow back into the tank as it needs too provided it has the right kind of Radator Cap made for use with a Recovery system. Good luck looks like you have made some great progress. :nod:
 
Idk about the choke. It kinda acts funny. I will turn the adjuster til the choke plate completely closes and then stop and tighten it down. Then if you open the choke using the linkage it will stay open partly and not close all the way. But the choke still doesn't open soon enough. Maybe the linkage is loose or something idk.
 
It's hard to see the choke linkage but when the engine is compleatly cold and you press down on the gas pedal it should set itself on the index Mark of Fast idle linkage it looks like a side ways V the adjustment screw should be on that step of the linkage and pointing to the V. The Bakalite Choke Cover should be set 2 lines pass the top center index Mark (towards the Rich side). This should have the choke blade closed tight if the air temp were you are at is could enough. If the choke isn't closed all the way then you might need to replace the Choke cover because the spring maybe weak. When all the linkage is working right then adjust the Fast Idle RPM to spec. Good luck :nod:
 
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